Large Scale Central

New Train Storage Shed

Track and Trestles
#1

I’d Like to get your opinions on this design for a Train Storage Shed.

It is 2 stories. To take advantage of the two levels of my layout. I can then get more storage in less space. The lower level is 10’ x 3’ x 1’. If I put the track on 7" on-center then I can get 5 tracks in the bottom. Is that too tight? The top level will be the same dimensions of the lower but only 3 tracks. I was thinking of building an open grid between the top and bottom. Something like suspending the top tracks on steel dowels running across the width so I have as good of access to the bottom as I’m gonna get. Some input and ideas would be nice. Thanks in advance.

#2

Depends on your scale… a scale 13 foot between centers will work, but remember that you won’t be able to reach between tracks, but that does not seem to be a big deal, because the lower level is inaccessible.

Greg

#3

One question… At 10 foot long, and with tracks and trains on the top (upper level), how are you planning on getting to a car that got bumped too hard and derailed on the bottom tier???

#4
Andy Clarke said:
One question.... At 10 foot long, and with tracks and trains on the top (upper level), how are you planning on getting to a car that got bumped too hard and derailed on the bottom tier????
Fishing rod! :lol: Seriously: I'd design the sides so that they can be folded down. Or still better, the top flips up and one side flips down.
#5

Does not do much for the inner tracks

I would think twice about a double decker… maybe a track or two on each side on the upper level and your 5 tracks across on the bottom level. That way, you can reach down inside and get to most of the cars on the bottom level if there are derailments.

Greg

#6

He can always make the second floor removable that way he can get at the the frist floor.

#7

I, also would consider making the lower level more accessible. When I built my train barn I made sure I could reach all five tracks and I’ve never regretted it.

#8

I thought of the access to the bottom. First I failed to mention that yes the top roof folds up like most other storage sheds. The second floor is not there. I was going to suspend it with metal rods going across the building. Here is a quick example:

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/dowelexample.jpg)

Basically there is no floor between the 2nd and 1st levels, so I can get to any trains that need to be rerailed. However, I understand your thinking on access. Right now I’m trying to get some ideas and will start building this when the weather gets warmer. Also, where this is going I am going to have it partially buried in the dirt.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/Garden64-24-11.jpg)

Here is a picture from my old builders log. The storage shed will go against the house on the left. The track you see in the picture has a spur coming off it just outside of the picture on the right. That will loop around and to the front of the shed. The height is enough at the top that I think I can get a second level. I’m definately concerned about the access to the bottom track, thats why I thought to use metal dowels and no floor. What about the spacing on the track on the bottom? I am in 1:20 scale. Is 7 inches on-center too tight?

#9

So whatcha think. Am I creating a headache with the second floor??? And is 7" centers, too close on the bottom level?

#10

Trains derailing on the top floor can crash through to the bottom floor :open_mouth:
You already have reduced top clearance being under the deck.
I would give up on the second floor and make the shed longer.
Ralph

#11

Jake:

I agree with those cautioning about the 2 story design. As Ralph suggested, consider making the shed longer.

As to side clearance, I use 12’ or 7 1/8" as the loading gauge for my 1:20 railroad. That provides excellent clearance for trains passing each other on straight track and medium radius trackage. I use that same dimension for my maintenance benches. It allows good finger / hand space to pick up and / or re-rail rolling stock.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

#12
Jake Smith said:
And is 7" centers, too close on the bottom level?
Jake, I run some very long cars say 36" with 6.5" O/C spacing on a 10' radius they are close but don't touch. However I'm not sure what equipment your running?

Edit for 5’ radius and 10’ diameter curves not 10’ radius

#13

I just went outside and checked mine. They are 7.5 inches, My Shay is wide. Seven inches would be breathtaking!

#14

Probably what I would do would be to set up the track out in the open and figure out what i would need to get the five fingered crane to be able to operate, i.e. get my fingers between the cars without derailing the bystanders next door. Then take that measurement and add an inch or so for good measure.

Do like a good civil engineer does… design it to spec, then beef it up anyhow… :smiley:

#15
Doug Arnold said:
I just went outside and checked mine. They are 7.5 inches, My Shay is wide. Seven inches would be breathtaking!
You guys must be working with a lot larger scale, gauge or equipment than I am!! Mine is 1:20.32 narrow gauge. I do use a larger clearance for 1:20.32 standard gauge.

My NG B’mann 2 truck Shay is 4¾" over the grab irons. The widest locomotives I have are my B’mann GE 45 tonners. They are 5¾" wide at the cab roof. That is the widest part of the locomotive.

I just measured some Accucraft boxcars: They are 4¾" wide over the car bodies. Add another ¼" for the grabs and I still have 2" between the cars on parallel tracks. In my 1:20 scale that is well over 3 feet.

My clearance gauge is based on one of the Colorado NG railroad’s loading gauge. I got it from Electric & Steam Model Works so long ago that I have forgotten which one. Built and build everything to that standard, with no problems.

So what scale and gauge are you folks working in??

Happy RRing,

Jerry

#16

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/Railroad%202011/035-1.jpg)

:wink:

#17

5.7/5" spacing in the tunnel

#18

Thanks for the advice I think I shall eliminate the second floor.

I do have some limits to my shed. I cant go any longer than 10’ I would then hit the stairs going down the backend of the deck. I think someone mentioned the height clearance under my deck, actually I have plenty of that. The deck attaches to the second story of my house. So a normal height person can stand up under the deck.

I took someones advice (Rooster I think, Oh god did I really say that!!! lol) and set out some straight track and measured what was a comfortable distance. I think 7" will be fine. I have Accucraft and Bachman equipment including a K-27. Which seems to be a hulk of a locomotive.

#19

Jake I have one of those sheds coming up. It will be in the open, a simple box. One end fixed, the other fits in slots. The sidewall marked with A is fixed, the top swivels up to that side. Photomural on the A side and the top, the B side swivels down. The whole shmir elevated from the ground, intended for car/complete train storage, the engines will always be run back to staging in the garage.

(http:///P1/ThusisTrack.jpg)

Overall length 8.5m (28ft), width 0.675m (2.2ft). PS CL to CL distance 6.4" for IIm (1:22.5).

#20

Jake. I built a storage shed, mainly to store trains in if an unexpected rain shower arrived. However, it was not meant as permanent storage space.

It is two track, just over 8ft. in length and has a lockable hinged roof. The entrance is masked by a two track tunnel portal. It was made lockable in case trains were left there overnight but as it is concealed by bushes it is virtually hidden from view.

My viewpoint is try to keep things simple in the first instance: further expansion/extension can always be done at a later date.