Large Scale Central

New Saddle tank

Modeling
#1

For a while now I have been trying to get an LGB Saddle tank porter but the price was never right. I decided that my LGB porter from the value starter set was almost identical to the saddle tank one. At first I though about trying to buy one but the only dealer was overseas and I was not going to pay an arm and leg to ship. My next idea was make one using styrene. I have no clue what I am doing but I took some styrene and added wood for supports. Then I bent the styrene using hot water. Next I have to add the front and back, add some rivets, clean it up, paint and then the details like water hatch etc … The wood on the edge is going to be glued to the porter side plates.

Fitted on before glueing.

#2

Go Shawn!!!

#3

Grand start Shawn. You’re becoming an excellent mangler!

#4

Done a couple of these scratched tanks already, the first one is always the trickyiest but most satisfying when finished.

#5

…winking…

#6

Shawn it looks like you’re off to a good start.

#7

Wow, you bigulated the Bachmann one!

#8

Thanks guys. I got the front and back on, the tank is glued to the engine. I filede all the edges down to make everything blend. So far looks good. I also ordered some detail parts, should be in end of week.
Vic I need to pick your brain since you did a few of these. How did you do the rivets? I have some thin stripes of styrene. I tried denting holes into it but very difficult getting them lined up and the syrene wants to curl up to much. Any other ideas.

#9

I have a couple technics,

  1. I use fairly thin sytrene .20 cut into strips 1/8" wide or so, then use a blunted nail to pressed into the styrene on a cutting board, it takes some trial and error to get the rivets lined up, dont bother trying to make them perfect, I dont worry too much about perfect spacing, to me your eye will not notice once its painted and weathered if the rivets waver a tad. yes it tends to curl just flatten it back out on application, the curl actually helps if your putting it on a curved surface like the tank. If I’m adhering it to styrene I use a styrene solvent glue, if to a non stryene, I use CA to glue it down.

  2. If the model is big enough you could drill small holes for the rivets and insert small brad nails into those holes, this gives a nice big hefty rivet where the brad head sits on the surface. In tight spaces you can simply cut the end off the brad and insert just the brad head, I use a little dab of CA on the brad to hold it in place when set, in this case accuracy in spacing is more important as they are much more noticable on viewing.

#10

have you tried a dressmakers wheel?

#11

do you want to make something for the rivet counters? if yes, you might consider taylor’s pins.

(http://kormsen.ko.funpic.de/bahn/forumpics/sg-tender7.JPG)

(http://kormsen.ko.funpic.de/bahn/forumpics/sg-tender6.JPG)

#12

I got a lot done the last few days. Still needs a few more details and then off to the paint shop.

(http://i45.tinypic.com/1424e3s.jpg)

#13

Looking good. I think the saddle tank will be a big improvement.

#14

Don’t forget the whistle on the cab roof.

#15

Are you going to paint it pink with purple seahorse decals?

#16

Ya dun good!

#17

“Bash watcha’ got” - that’s a good principle.

#18

Saddle tank was painted and weathered late yesterday but rain moved in so no pictures. Will try to get some tonight after work. Just have a few more details to add, mainly junk.

#19

Here is the porter painted. Just have to add a few more pieces of junk. I might have overdone it on the weathering but I might fix that up… New

(http://i25.tinypic.com/24eqnp3.jpg)

Phase 1

(http://i33.tinypic.com/aepgsm.jpg)

Phase 2

(http://i47.tinypic.com/aes2ft.jpg)

Final

(http://i47.tinypic.com/2vccn4p.jpg)

#20

A great transformation Shawn.