John;
Seeing as you are modelling that railroad, even if Ogdensburg is renamed Smallville; you should make a trip with your good lady, to Ogdensburg, and enjoy lunch at the Freighthouse Restaurant, where Tim McCabe holds court, almost every day eccept Sunday, or Monday.
Good food, great prices, and good friends…and he also sells LS model railroad equipment at reasonable prices.
Fr.Fred
I ordered the spiking pliers. Im going to practice on some straight sections and see how it goes before I order the spiker. I’m weird in that I can see myself enjoy hand spiking the old fashion way.
Fred will be proud of me. I’m going to do guide rails along the trestles.
Now I just need to sell the house.
OK this IS Shawn’s thread… Shawn, handlaying is a source of pleasure; I think it may give one the same kind of rhythmic pleasure they say one gets from other repetitive tasks such as knitting or crochet. I’ve done a lot of handlaying - track and switches in my time, in smaller scales, and I wish you well with it. In Large Scale, I decided that I wanted to get things up and running fast and since I could afford it I bought the track and switches. That said, I’m not crazy about either the operation or appearance of the store-bought track. I haven’t the slightest doubt that you’ll be both pleased and proud of your result. Go for it!
A footnote to the P&ORR stuff, without wanting to hijack Shawn’s thread: Believe it or not there was a Littleton on the real original P&ORR. Smallville was, of course, where Clark Kent grew up. The fantasy name is part of my effort to promote our hobby among the younger set.
If and when you decide to order the spiker, don’t forget to order some track gauges and a long straightedge.
(http://rgsgardenrailroad.com/2013/switchtools07.jpg)
Both Switchcrafters and Rodney sell the gauges.
Shawn,
A three point gauge works much better than a two point gauge in my opinion. Llagas Creek has a three point gauge. If you buy two three point gauges its really easy to insure that both straight and curved tracks are exactly the right gauge.
Make sure you order the correct spikes. You want your spikes to rust in place as it helps lock the spike into the ties.
Once you get hand laying down it becomes very relaxing.
I was wondering where to get the track gauges. Ill have to order them.
John my plan is to get the track down using my current track. Then I will start hand laying one section at a time. That way I can still run trains and not have to wait till the entire mainline is hand laid. Plus I can use the dual rail bender rather then bend one rail at a time.
I just checked Llagas Creek and Switchcrafters and they only have the Gauges for 215 and 250 rails. I’m still using 332 rail. I can always have my friend make me those roller ones with his Lathe.
Try R&K …if Rodney doesn’t carry 332, I’m sure you could talk him into making some. His are the aluminum ones on the right.
And since you’re going to all the trouble of hand laying your track, 250 aluminum would be a lot cheaper then 332 brass…and you more then likely wouldn’t need the railbender either.
Since I had the money at the time I used LGB flex. I’ve never had any operations problems with it even though I don’t maintain the track as well as I should. But I really like the look oh hand laying.
Shall we have a new thread to rename your railroad John?
Ken I’m going to stay with code 332. I have a habit of stepping on my track especially when cleaning the snow off. Plus my brass rail has weathered nicely. Aluminum is to shiny for me and would never hold up to my feet lol.
I feel the same way about brass track. It’s great how it weathers.
What are you thinking about a train yard?
I use the Kadee “G” Coupler Height Gauge as a track gauge, as well as a coupler height gauge. It has the three point stance, and is, according to Kadee, 5 tools in one.
Provides instant visual reference of proper coupler height.
Gauges car underbody height from rail.
Gauges track width.
Gauges wheel width.
Uncoupler gluing jig.
I have three of them, so they come in real handy, but I haven’t figured out number 5, yet. I set up all three along a stretch of track, and start spiking.
Yes, the Kadee coupler gauge is a great tool, but the wheel gauge part of it is not correct for proper BACK TO BACK wheel spacing…
…believe it or not the Aristo gauge is accurate for BACK TO BACK wheel spacing.
If you are planning to hand lay track, the Aristo gauge also has a track gauge on it, and several other gauges for parts of switches.
I would suggest having several three point gauges, the Kadee coupler gauge, and the Aristo gauge…along with a metal straight edge.
Good info Fred thanks. I have an Aristo gauge already. My buddy is stopping over tonight to run some steamers with me. I’m going to see if he can make some gauges up for me.
Doug the yard is going to be a small yard if I decide to have one, probably 2 sidings, 3 at most and will be the elevated section for steaming up. Ill have one passing siding, something like I have already with the engine house etc… I want to limit the switches since I don’t operate. More switches the more issues.
Fred Mills said:
Yes, the Kadee coupler gauge is a great tool, but the wheel gauge part of it is not correct for proper BACK TO BACK wheel spacing…
…believe it or not the Aristo gauge is accurate for BACK TO BACK wheel spacing.
If you are planning to hand lay track, the Aristo gauge also has a track gauge on it, and several other gauges for parts of switches.
I would suggest having several three point gauges, the Kadee coupler gauge, and the Aristo gauge…along with a metal straight edge.
I’ve always used calipers to measure back to back gauge. What does the Kadee measure in their wheel spacing gauge?
Edit: Just noticed a mis-spelling.
Shawn, I just joined this LSC and saw your post about a new yard. Lucky you to start afresh.
For what my opinion is worth, I suggest a long single track WITH reversing loops at either end and one or more passing loops on the single track. That way you can drive trains in both directions. With a dogbone, you can just have trains follow each other around. I guess it depends on your operating requirements.
Definately agree that making track is a nice soothing pastime.
When you say you want level track ‘to drive livesteamers’, how do you drive them without RC?
I don’t have livesteam but a friend does with good steep grades and RC. He has continuous control of throttle and reversing gear setting and it makes driving really fun.
Good luck.
How’s track laying?
I laid 50 feet before I “retired.”
Greg good to see you on LSC. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of the reversing loops best. At first I was going to have track power but now I’m leaning more towards not having any track power. I always liked how Kevin Strong and Eric Shade layout plans looked.
I guess what meant by driving my live steam was that I want to set the throttle at the slowest speed possible and just let it run on its own, without really having to adjust the throttle. Then I wont have to worry about it stopping or speeding up on grades. If I have to adjust the throttle I want to be able to do it by hand, that’s where having the layout elevated or partially elevated comes into play.
Doug no track laying yet. I still have to sell my house before I buy a new one. I’m hopping to sell and have my new layout up and running by winter. I’m going to use the plastic ties to get the line running and then hand lay a section at a time. That way I can still run and hand lay track.
I like that idea.
Also if you change your mind about track power you can do what I did and just go back and run it.
Shawn Viggiano said:
John Bouck said:
Everything on benchwork, like Richard Smith’s.
If I ever had to rebuild, that’s what I would do.
I still prefer the garden aspect and being able to dig in the dirt. Plus with bench work its hard to blend in with the surrounding area.
Using the ladder method you can elevate the track high enough to get proper drainage and keep the greenery at bay. Plus you can lay those gentle curves that follow the contours of the “land”, extend the trestles down to the ground that is there already.
Hans im not a fan of the ladder method. Its way too much work for me. I always felt its a waste of time and money. Track laying on a base of stone dust works very well for me. With the ladder method you still see what the track is laying on. I don’t want to see anything but track laying on top of dirt. Im also anal that way 
