Hi Folks.
My name is Larry Bowen, am 61 years old, and live in Central Florida. I’ve been model railroading for many years and had pretty much lost my passion for the hobby until I went to a train show and swap a couple weeks ago and found a nice used USATrains Sante Fe GP-9/ 4-whl Caboose combo with 5 nice Aristo Reefers. I also picked up a Bachmann Big Hauler unmarked 2-6-0 Mogul. Friday I picked up 250 to 300ft of new and used Aristo Stainless Track. I have laid out a rectangle/oval 20x45ft just to get me started and get a feel for it.
My question is more of needing an opinion. I know that I eventually want battery power and wireless control. I have used DCC in the past for my smaller layouts but have sold that system and am in search of a system that can handle large scale and start me towards my battery/wireless goal.
Also I have an MRC Tech3 Model 9500 Power Command Power Pack. I figure I have laid down approx. 95ft of stainless track. Do you think this control will handle my train TEMPERARILY until I can get a bigger one? This one says it puts out 20VDC, 30VA.
Also I am looking for other large scale railroaders in the Ocala/Inverness Florida area…
Thanks for any help or opinions you may have,
Larry Bowen
Welcome aboard Larry,
You are going to find that there are several good systems out on the market for battery/wireless control and most of them are being used by different people on this site that will chime in later.
I personally use the Aristo-Craft Revolution system. It’s plug and play in all Aristo-Craft equipment and is easily adapted to other manufactures product by use of a plug and play board available through Aristo-Craft. It works well with Phoenix and other sound systems, plus you can also control your switches. I use the 21volt Li-on batteries from Aristo and I get about 3 to 4 hours of continuous running.
Chuck
Welcome aboard Larry.
Welcome, Larry.
I don’t think the MRC power pack will do the job. 95 feet of track will require something bigger.
I had a 70VA MRC at one time. It was good for maybe 30-40 feet of track.
The Revolution system might be good for you. As it can be used with either track power or battery.
But it’s not DCC compliant.
Aristo-Craft and MRC both make a 10amp power supply, at a reasonable cost. But you could probably buy the batteries for two engines for the same price.
Might save you some money in the long run by just going battery from the start.
Ralph
Larry,
Welcome aboard. When I first came into the hobby in 1985, I had your MRC power pack that I bought for my LGB 2018 Mogul and had about 100 feet of LGB brass track. A small section of the backyard. I found that pack to be too small when I added ABBA LGB SF F7’s and passenger cars. Went to the LGB Jumbo pack. I was away from the hobby for a few years and came back to 1/20.3 Fn3 narrow gauge. This is when I made the decision to go to battery/Airwire/Phoenix sound. I have never regretted that decision. Just NOT having to clean track constantly, fixing track joints all the time AND having track go whereever I wanted without talking about electrical nightmares, i.e. reversing loops and blocks. I’m 67 and I don’t need to run eight hours a day. Batteries are just fine! I know there are others on here with many opinions about other systems. But THIS system works fine for me. I’m not an electrical engineer…I’k a model railroad hobbyist! Get my meaning?
You say you have just two locomotives now. It should not be real expensive for you to install wireless and sound in these engines, if you do the install yourself. If you have some else do it for you, it could be a little pricey. Not way out of bounds though.
Good luck with your decision.
Hi Larry.
I started with an MRC, went to an LJB Jumbo, then warehoused the whole lot.
I now use Airwire, Phoenix sound and batteries.
I’l never go back to track power.
Welcome to LSC.
Hi Larry,
Welcome Aboard! Are you near Inverness?
welcome aboard, Larry… can’t helpt with the power tranformer question, sorry
Welcome Larry,
20V providing 30VA means you have 1.5A available. Too skimpy! I’d try the Big Hauler first, probably has less current draw than the Geep.
BTW how is the track joined? Largest voltage drop is usually in the joiners.
If it would be my project I’d try a smaller oval first and see how the engines behave. BTW since the joiners are usually the weak spots you could also put in a power-bus - heavy duty #12AWG cable usually used for low voltage garden illumination - running parallel to the oval. Wherever you find voltage drop tap into the bus and provide a feeder to that section.
PS when you go shopping for power go for a large (10 or more amps) switching power supply. MeanWell is probably the best bang for the buck, then you just have to decide which control system you would like.
It’ll run your bachmann nicely, but might not be enough for your GP9. Of course, you might as well give it a try.
Battery and R/C is a good plan. No fiddly wires to mess with and no worries about reverse loops, wyes and the like. Of course, with batteries, you don’t need any big old moosey power pack. (How’s that for a technical term?)
Welcome Larry!
Hey Larry
I’m not going to try to help you with your power decisions I’m sure the experts will jump in any time, but I’m sure if you keep looking you will find some railroaders in your area that will be glad to help. The National convention will be in Florida in about three years so there will plenty going on down there.
Welcome aboard
Welcome aboard!
Welcome Aboard Larry!
WOW GUYS!!!
As the new guy I never expected such a fine response from so many fine folks that quick.
So first of all I would like to thank ALL of you for such a quick and very cordial welcome. And to the ones who gave advice or opinions…I greatly appreciate that you took the time to help out a beginning new guy.
I think I am going to try to run trains on this 9500 for a month or so until I can get the coins together for the Airwire System with the battery power and Phoenix Sound for both the locos that I have. I figure if I’m running on the MRC for now it will help motivate me to get the Airwire, etc that much quicker. I think it is pretty cool that the Airwire is made by CVP as I have used their DCC with my HO and On30 scales for about the past 10 yrs. before I decided to go to the Large Scale Trains.
And to the curious few…I live about 10 miles north of Inverness, FL. and am a member of the Citrus Model Railroad Club. 
Larry,
I am just a few miles north of Ocala. I am some what new to Garden railroading however have a pretty significant layout started in me back yard. We should talk sometime.
Scott
Welcome Scott
Welcome indeed - anybody called Larry just has to be a good guy in my book. Like a few of the others here, I’m not pursuaded that all this electrical stuff will ever catch on in a big way, so I have absolutely zilch to offer in the way of advice to running your trains using this new-fangled method of power.
Notwithstanding that general iggerance on my part, I wish you well in your adventure into large scale and look forward to seeing how it all pans out for you.
Best wishes
tac, ig & The Point Peele Boys
Ottawa Valley GRS
Welcome, Larry. You’ve got good advice. I’d try the power pack you’ve got, and run a jumper to the opposite side of the loop. That should minimize the voltage drop, and should be more than enough power for the ten wheeler OR the GP 9. I just ran a USA NW2 for six hours a day, six days a week with an MRC 6200, which is about 3A. It got warm, but still ran.