It took tooooooo many years but I finally listen to the doctor!
It looks like this will be the extent of my progress for the next 10 days or so…
In order to assemble and trim the deck or spike the rail I need to know the final dimension of the bridge.
And that requires work I can’t do until they allow me to use my left hand. I was hoping that would be today, but at my post-surgery follow up I got to see the size of the incision - much larger than I thought it was going to be - pretty much covers a third of my left palm. The doctor wants to keep the thumb immobilized for another 9 days, then he will remove the sutures and allow me to use it. After seeing the incision I doubt I’ll have much grip strength for quite some time.
What I can do is consider color. I’m going to experiment with both India Ink & Alcohol and Used Motor Oil on the trimmings from the bridge ties. I really like the natural Cedar look, but it doesn’t really fit on my RR.
Even still John…that is a bunch of work for a ‘one armed bandit’…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)
That ceder will gray out on its own in a year or two. Just a thought.
True David. I’ve had a few lengths of Cedar strip wood out in the weather for about a year to see what they will do on their own. This wood is destined to become a flat car deck some day. I’m not too happy with what it looks like after a year outside. I flip them over whenever I think of it and they are greying up quite evenly, but its not the nice silvery grey I see from weathered pine. That’s why I am leaning toward some kind of treatment.
Bob “IA3R#7” Cope said:
Even still John…that is a bunch of work for a ‘one armed bandit’…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)
Thanks Bob. I cut all the wood and made an assembly jig back when I had use of both hands. It was a slow process, but not that hard with the jig and pin nailer.
Needing something to occupy my time today I decided to experiment with color options. Using the drops from cutting the bridge ties to length, I soaked 4 each in these solutions: India Ink and Alcohol, Household Bleach and Used Motor Oil. I already had some similar Cedar ties that had been soaked in a ‘Rust Solution’ made from dissolving steel wool in white vinegar. Here is the soaking process…
India Ink at the top, bleach at the bottom. I used a small plastic cup filled with stones to keep the wood submerged for two hours. The motor oil soak was done in a throw-away plastic cup…
After two hours I drained off the liquid and placed the test subjects in empty plastic cups to dry…
I know how y’all love pictures so here is a close up of the result of each solution. First, India Ink dissolved 1:1 in Alcohol and then further diluted 1 part in 8 parts of alcohol…
Next, The “Rust Solution” - This sticks have been drying for several years…
Next, Used Motor Oil…
And finally, Household Bleach…
For a color comparison, here is the untreated wood in the same light…
So far, I much prefer the India Ink solution. The Rust Solution is OK, but a bit too red. The Motor Oil is surprisingly light and Household Bleach is going in the wrong direction for me as I’m looking for a more prototypical color.
While I was at it I wanted to see how difficult this wood was going to be to hand spike. It will be time consuming, but the 1/2" spikes are just right…
I will let the treated ties dry for a few days before making a final decision, but I’m already thinking of trying a few different strengths of India Ink & Alcohol.
I went with about 5 to 10% ink to alcohol (90% Isopropyl alcohol) for my boxcars. I say about because I kept “adjusting” the mixture as I went. Some batches got a mix with a bit more ink, some got a mix with less ink. Then I mixed the boards together for a random appearance. I used pine for my boxcars, so ceder may come out a bit darker.
I’m to lazy to do the math on percentages. First I diluted the ink 50/50 with 70% Alcohol. So that one is easy - 50%. Now this 50% was further diluted with the 70% Alcohol - One part of the ink solution to 8 parts of Alcohol. According to a web calculator; 1:8 = 12.5%
Since I started with 50%, I’m guessing that my final dilution is about 6% - but I really don’t care so long as I can duplicate it (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
EDIT to add: I love that car!!!
At first I thought one of those plants was the sage from the CVRR then I remembered you killed it and realized they were geraniums.
I just painted my redwood ties with krylon flat black and many years later they look fine.
Just a coupla things I have discovered/tried.
Ink/alcohol coloring has a tendency to fade when left in the weather full time, such as on ties.
Try mixing your “used” motor oil about 50% with diesel you get rid of that “shiny” look
and get better penetration
Rick
Thanks Rick. Your experience is welcomed.
I have ruled out the motor oil as this bridge is in an area that needs to be stepped over often. Since it never really dries I don’t want it rubbing of on my clothes - that and the look is too red for me.
I was at Walmart today and checked out the paint department. They had a quart of Minwax Ebony stain on the close-out shelf for $3 so I grabbed it. I dipped a few test subjects this evening. With just a quick dip and a wipe it is quite dark. Once it soaks in I’ll grab some photos for comparison to the other methods. I may attempt to cut it with a light Maple stain I have in-stock. The stain is marked for Indoor use, but I think it will weather perfectly slowly changing to grey.
I also started a batch of “Rust Solution”. I probably won’t use it for the ties, but may use it to weather the girder. I do know from experience that the rust does not last more than a month or so outside. I’ve never tried it under a clear matte spray.
I mix the ebony stain with boiled linseed oil, about 25/75. Makes for a nice, dark stain, with great penetration/preservation.
25% stain to 75% oil? Sounds like a good idea.
You got it right. 25% stain.
Thanks - I’ll pick some up and try that too!
Wasn’t that a song?
More color tests and final assembly of the deck today. On Steve’s suggestion I picked up a quart of Boiled Linseed Oil at the local hardware store today, Cost me almost 4 times as much as the stain, but I think it will end up being used. Here are the results of the latest color tests along side some previous attempts…
In case you can’t read the cups, from Left to Right: Un-treated Cedar, Minwax Ebony Stain, India Ink & Alcohol, 25% Ebony Stain 75% Boiled Linseed Oil, Polyshade Antique Walnut, Used Motor Oil.
And, just because I can, here are close ups of each color. First, Un-treated Cedar…
Minwax Ebony Stain
India Ink & Alcohol…
25% Ebony Stain 75% Boiled Linseed Oil…
Polyshade Antique Walnut…
Used Motor Oil…
Thanks Steve for the Linseed Oil suggestion. I’m pretty sure it will be the winner, but I’d like it darker so I’m going to give 50/50 a try next.
Also today I glued together the three sections of deck in preparation for painting. I’m using an 8 foot 1x2 to support it while the glue dries. It’s a little over 9 foot long. The finished bridge will be about 8 foot. I’ll cut the deck to length once I know the final dimension…
Yeah, Jon, its a personal choice. I like the 25/75 mix because its brown, not black, and the grain shows through. Whatever floats your boat, right? The linseed oil is spendy, but gives you long lasting protection.
As I was typing the above, I thought of mixing the ebony stain with used motor oil. Whacha think? Used motor oil is free.
Daktah John said:
It’s a little over 9 foot long. The finished bridge will be about 8 foot. I’ll cut the deck to length once I know the final dimension…
Hey careful leaving all that time on your hands. Your trying to heal up, remember? Love the coloring tutorial and results. Glad to see you were able to revise the build plan and keep on progressing.
Jon,
Good info you presented on the color staining. 