Large Scale Central

New caboose redec project AND super cool dryxfer process!

Modeling
#1

Bought a caboose to go with the berk that is now going with the Hudson. When I found this dry-x-fer process I knew it was time to start doing my own decorating in a serious way. I don’t like vinyl lettering except for simple stuff on bldgs. And I’m not a fan of decals either ( no offense Stan) So I bought this system after watching the video. For Multicolor I’d have to go to a color laser printer to get the printing done on the x-fer paper but any single color or black and white I can do with my own B&W laser. Here’s the link for the store. http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/ Caboose painted in RailBox Yellow with sample lettering on paper. That is the text going on my caboose and I do see the flaw in the “Y” Didn’t notice it 'till I looked at a blow up of the photo

Sample lettering I made ( 6 font size) transferred to a piece of PVC That is the text going on my caboose and I do see the flaw in the “Y” Didn’t notice it 'till I looked at a blow up of the photo

Two pictures next to 2 box cars

#2

Wearing a latex glove will prevent yellow thumbitus !

#3

Neat. I’ve been looking at that site for some time, but it always seemed like it took a bunch of extra stuff I didn’t have - like the laminator and heat gun. I’m interested in hearing your experience with it, as the results sure do look nice.

#4

Last glove used 2 days ago :frowning: …more on order.

Worth every penny Bruce. I bought the laminator from them

#5

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the link, that is a very cool method!

#6

I just watched the video on their site. It seems to me that the placing of the transfer is ultra critical. With traditional dry transfers, you can move it around before burnishing, but this appears that it’s in place as soon as it touches the surface. I’d be interested in the process you use to apply those letters. It does look promising. :wink:

#7

Yes very nice process. Thanks Larry. Keep us posted on the caboose.

#8

Bruce the placing is important as it does stick right away…but I’ve got some ideas on making sure stuff is straight. And critical is relative to desired outcome… straight and level is important but side to side or up and down has more leeway…we’ll see how it goes

#9

Very interesting method but there seems to be a lot of steps. The results look great though. The ability to do white is a plus.

At work, we have a machine called the Gerber Edge that is a thermal foil printer. It will print white or any CMYK color on a carrier. The carrier can by any vinyl or a “static cling”. There is also a clear matte vinyl that can be printed on. One day I’m going to experiment with this process for my logos and data. Vinyl looks OK on some surfaces, but it is difficult to get very small logos and lettering. The logos I made in cut vinyl are too big, but any smaller and the letters could not be weeded out of the scrap vinyl.

#10

My colr lazer printer went belly up about a year ago.
Burned up the heat transfer drum printing decals.
I still have a black lazer printer though.
On decals, the color faded very quickly, even using UV spray.
The black still looks good as new, two years later.
It will be interesting to see how the dry transfers hold up.
Ralph

#11
Ralph Berg said:
My colr lazer printer went belly up about a year ago. Burned up the heat transfer drum printing decals. I still have a black lazer printer though. On decals, the color faded very quickly, even using UV spray. The black still looks good as new, two years later. It will be interesting to see how the dry transfers hold up. Ralph
I went as far as looking into UV protected printer ink..............forget that! Very expensive stuff.