Large Scale Central

Need to achieve a 30" drop

Terry, that looks good.

Did you “drive” the PVC into the ground wit a four pound finishing tool, or dig a hole and plant them?

Terry, That’s looking good and sound.
But, you may rethink a bit and before you go any further get yourself a can of Walmanizer and apply to ALL the cut edges and ends… This is recommended by the manufacturers of pressure treated lumber, and endorsed and practiced by Fr. Fred’s group.

That should last for “a while”. :wink: :slight_smile: I second the recommendation about sealing the cut surfaces.

@ Steve

I use a 8lbs “finishing tool”, the handle on 4 pounder is too short to get enough “Wham” behind it. I also taper (bandsander) the end to have less resistance on the “cutting edge”, works very well.

Hey Dave, that doesn’t look like treated wood, it looks like redwood or cedar decking. Matbe Terry is going to paint all of it when he’s done.

Either way, it looks great Terry.

Thanks for the compliments. Sadly, it’s fall here so that means rain. No work again today…

I did dig the holes by hand then tamped the dirt back in. I drove a few with success, actually quite easily because my yard is sand and pea gravel under neath but then i found I have alot of rocks as well. The third post I drove I cracked badly. So, I decided to dig. I could plant a pole about every 10 minutes by digging plus I had very little waste this way as I could cut the posts to the exact height.

Chuck, it is treated lumber but your right it has the reddish hue to it of cedar.

I have never even heard of Walminizer. I plan to use deck stain on the entire thing would it still be necessary to do this? I assume that it seals the edges to keep moisture out?

Terry Burr said:
here’s an pverview of the backside with the access hole. The deck will be for visitors to load their trains. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-14275-1349525089423.jpg)

[/url] This is the decking. I’ll trim it so it will be a smooth continuous curve. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-21389-1349525090473.jpg)

[/url] This is the framework I made. It’s ripped down 1 5/4 deck board with 2" PVC conduit for legs. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-24341-1349525088892.jpg)

[/url] Here is the opposite side of the grade. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-21949-1349525091013.jpg)

[/url] Like I said, the grade is about 2%. The structure itself is very secure. I weigh 275lbs and can walk the length of it. But, rainy dreary day here so no work… Terry

Terry, what is the radius of your curves, about 5 feet?

Terry Burr said:
I have never even heard of Walminizer. I plan to use deck stain on the entire thing would it still be necessary to do this? I assume that it seals the edges to keep moisture out?
Terry,

Your assumption is right as it restores it to almost as it was after being treated, and the open grain will absorb ( because you can’t use the other word) the Wolmanizer very well.
And yes even though you plan on using stain.

Take a look at the following. But remember I am in no way affiliated with this store or product

http://www.lowes.com/pd_175101-1168-61250_4294729337__?productId=3200587&Ns=p_product_rating|0&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_rating|0&facetInfo=

Dave

An argument can be made that pressure treated wood is not really necessary in the application that Terry is proposing, because it will not be in contact with the ground. Any ordinary sealant, like “Thompson’s” should be more than sufficient for Terry’s application.

Ric they are 5.5 radius. 11’ is all i could fit between the barn and property line.

Not arguing the fact that sealant would help. But, the deck on my house has been here for over 20 years and I have done nothing but stain it once 10 years ago. It has no problems on the cut ends. There is a counter arguement to sealing wood that says if you close up all the ends the wood can’t breathe and rots from the inside out. This is all interesting. I’ll have to do some more reading and talk to my contractor fiends. Thanks for the advice and product info.

Terry

Quote:
Any ordinary sealant, like "Thompson's" should be more than sufficient for Terry's application
Here in waterfront territory (Chesapeake Bay) we have lots of outdoor decks, many on piers over the water. Staining is recommended every 2 years - though 4 or 5 years seems to be OK. We use regular timber for the top surfaces, or Trex, and sometimes PT wood.

Finished the framework, had a minor accident that could have killed me but that is another post. Think I may lay off work for the rest of the day and celebrate life.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-11599-1349799530511.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-17593-1349799529054.jpg)

Gap to get the mower in. I’ll put a swing top bridge in there.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-13713-1349799529947.jpg)

Talking to friends and contractors I don’t think i’ll do anything but stain the wood. A fellow firefighter & contractor who does mainly decks said he never does and still puts a guarantee on his work. He found the walminizer didn’t prolong the wood life for any significant in this area. I do appreciate the heads up and opinions though. Terry

Terry Burr said:
Finished the framework, had a minor accident that could have killed me but that is another post. Think I may lay off work for the rest of the day and celebrate life. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-11599-1349799530511.jpg)

[/url] [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-17593-1349799529054.jpg)

[/url] Gap to get the mower in. I’ll put a swing top bridge in there. [url]

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-13713-1349799529947.jpg)

[/url] Talking to friends and contractors I don’t think i’ll do anything but stain the wood. A fellow firefighter & contractor who does mainly decks said he never does and still puts a guarantee on his work. He found the walminizer didn’t prolong the wood life for any significant in this area. I do appreciate the heads up and opinions though. Terry

Terry, Since you are in celebratory mood of not suddenly ending your life, take advantage of the moment and save yourself some time and anguish by turning the inside of that loop into a rock garden, flower garden or pond and eleminate the cutting of the grass there forever, instead of making a bridge so you can get in and cut the grass, If not for yourself, do it for the environment. My goal is to eliminate the running of lawnmowers one blade at a time. More goats, less mulch. Another idea, would be a compost pile, but they sometime get smelly.

No worries Ric, I have a rotary push mower.
The ultimate goal, some decade, is to build it all up and fill it in.

Terry

Looking good Terry! Stay safe! Got some train watching to do.