Since I finished my kitbashed RS-3 in January, it’s still the only loco I have with a Revo receiver installed. I’m getting tired of having my BBT/Bachmann “Annie” sitting on the shelf, so I want to get started on putting a receiver into it. It already has a Phoenix PB9 sound board.
Any tips on disassembling this loco, and installing the Revo?
Ray here is a 4 part video this link being part 1 its about RCS install but it will show you what to do in taking your Bachmann Annie apart, and maybe some other tips too. Hope this helps you. Regal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aD4d9qHcfE&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
Thanks, but the video is for a Mogul. How similar is it to the “annie”?
Ray, I can describe disassembly of a standard Big Hauler (pre-Annie–I suspect, but cannot confirm, that it is similar disassembly) without the BBT drive if you wish–but I’d rather have someone else confirm that it’d be useful before I spend the time.
Obviously I haven’t installed a REVO in anything, but tender locos are all pretty much the same.
There is a lot more room in the Annie tender for the parts.
Unless you are gutting the loco there is no need to disassemble it. It can be a real pain putting it back together.
You will need to disconnect all the track pick ups in the loco, including the pick ups in the pony truck.
They are all conveniently gathered to two points on the chassis bottom.
You will need to get the motor drive output from the tender into the loco. Depending on which Annie it might be as simple as hooking the output to the rear light cable. If no rear light then you will need to find a two wire plug and socket to make the Loco - Tender connection.
Just hook the wires to the old track pick up wiring you removed from the track pick ups and the loco will behave just the same as if it was running on track power.
It will be a lot more complicated if you require constant brightness reversing loco lights.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that I’m using track power, not batteries. So I need to keep the track pickups. Also, I would like to have constant brightness headlights/reversing lights, if at all possible.
Best suggestion is to contact Aristocraft for information.
I’m not certain where I got this, but I’m pretty sure it was written by TOC.
Annie dis-assembly
The Top Side
Pry the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box
Remove two long screws under the cab
Remove two short screws from the sides of the boiler near the lower center of the boiler
Remove the extra long screw under the cylinder saddle
Remove four long screws from under the air tanks. The tanks will fall off.
Carefully lift the shell off. Be careful about the wires to the smoke unit and headlight.
Do your stuff
While you’re in there, glue 1 or 2 lbs of lead on top of the cast iron weight. Note that extra weight will add capability to pull more cars, which means that you can make the motor work harder, which means that the motor will run hotter. If you haven’t reinforced the motor mounts, adding weight WILL result in rapid failure of the engine.
Reassemble in opposite order.
I’ve had mine open several times. It’s a bit of work putting it back together, but nothing you can’t handle.
Ray,
Just one hint, always work from the top down.
There are no shortcuts, dropping the drive out of the chassis, in fact, it invites a lot of problems.
Also do not loosen any screws/bolts in the drive bottom.
Barry - BBT
Jon,
If it is a conversion I did for Ray, then the drive has 4.5 lbs of custom lead weights already installed.
Barry - BBT
Thanks for the tips!
Barry, since I’m going to be working on the engine anyway, I’m wondering if there is any kind of maintenance I should do, like lubing the gears or something? Is that what the rubber plug on the bottom is for?
Ray,
The rubber “Lube Port” can be used to lubricate, but you are opening up the engine, so it can be your inspection port. There are actually two gear trains, the primary in the center which is the worm and worm gear, put lube on the worm gear (plastic). Off to the engineer’s side is the second gear train made up of a 16 tooth aluminum spur gear mating to a 30 tooth axle gear. Apply the grease to either or both. The rotation will spread the lube. Oil the rod pins on each wheel.
Good luck.
Barry - BBT
Ok. Any particular type of gear oil I should use?
Ray,
Always a non-petroleum based synthetic, is the most desired. Most every Mfg has them, usually a bit pricey.
There are some after market products available i.e., LaBelle, SuperLube, etc.
Grease on gears and axles, and oil on other moving parts
Barry - BBT