Large Scale Central

Need tips for painting my Bug Mauler

Modeling
#1

This topic has been discussed ad infinitum, but I don’t feel like searching the whole dang site for the right thread. So I’m askin’–how do I prep my Bachmann 10-wheeler for painting? The biggest issue is the lettering, especially on the tender. It’s painted on and from previous experience I recall there are many methods of removing said lettering. Mac MaCalla once said just paint over it, but I think it would kinda shadow through. Also, on the loco, do you want to strip the glossy black factory paint or just spray primer over it and then paint 'er?

Your suggestions, please.

#2

In the past I’ve just primed with gray rattle can primer and then sprayed with rattle can flat black. It turned out nice with no shadowing.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sparkyjoe/_forumfiles/Rebuilt_Gen2-to-Gen5_4-6-0.JPG)

#3

Use “Super Clean” degreaser to remove the lettering. It’s available at most auto parts stores.
Spray it on and let it soak. Repeat as needed.

The boiler and smoke box on certain 10 wheeler’s can cause problems. I suggest cleaning it with “Super Clean”, then using a plastic primer. Just painting straight over can result in some really nasty orange peel.
Ralph

#4

It’s the same here for Little River #110. I sprayed gray primer first followed by flat black. The smoke box and stack were masked and kept gray when the black was applied.

(http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg412/DrGrab/DSC06939_zps26e183d9.jpg)

Here is the eBay “before” shot( note the funky cab roof). I painted over all lettering with the primer and none shown through.

(http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg412/DrGrab/OriginalSouthern.jpg)

Hope this is helpful.

Doc Tom

#5

I use Stan’s method. I bought an “Air Eraser” at Harbor Freight Tools and a big bag of baking soda @ BJ’s. This does a good job of removing old lettering. I also use it for rust removal on metal.

The step I always rush through is thoroughly washing with warm water and Dawn® dish detergent. Then dry with a hair dryer (your wife won’t mind using hers).

Then the primer and paint.

#6

Good tips, gang. Lou, what’s an “Air Eraser?” I have my own hair dryer, ‘cause my wife got tired of me borrowing hers, so she deeded one of hers to me. And yet, it doesn’t pump out heat like a heat gun–the kind they sell in electronics stores–so I’m thinkin’ I need one of those to bend styrene.

But back to painting…

#7

Ask, and it shall be provided.

Air Eraser

#8

You can get a heat gun at “Your Local Home Center”. It is used to scrape paint off unwanted surfaces.

#9

Lou Luczu said:

You can get a heat gun at “Your Local Home Center”. It is used to scrape paint off unwanted surfaces.

Without melting the plastic?

#10

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraser-kit-69277.html

#11

I’m with Mac on this one; just paint over it. If you looked at prototype steam locomotives as well as rolling stock you’d see the vestiges of older lettering showing through even when the lettering was the same as the old. The lettering often was out of line with the old and showed up when the light hit just right. Unless you’re looking for factory new there’s no reason to worry about a bit of lettering outline showing through.

I do use primer as others have mentioned because it helps to protect the older paint, especially lettering paint, underneath from reacting with the new paint. Too, for locomotives, I just use black primer.

#12

I dunno, Ollie… :slight_smile:

#13

Richard Smith said:

I’m with Mac on this one; just paint over it. If you looked at prototype steam locomotives as well as rolling stock you’d see the vestiges of older lettering showing through even when the lettering was the same as the old. The lettering often was out of line with the old and showed up when the light hit just right. Unless you’re looking for factory new there’s no reason to worry about a bit of lettering outline showing through.

I do use primer as others have mentioned because it helps to protect the older paint, especially lettering paint, underneath from reacting with the new paint. Too, for locomotives, I just use black primer.

Yep

Peaches are coming in season ya know !

#14

Joe first try using Simple Green and a paper towel

I’ve had pretty good luck removing factory decals that way, took the lettering right off my Piko saddletankers, just use alot on the paper towel, thoroughly dab the decal to get it worked in then keep rubbing, one it came right off lickedy split, another though I have to work more to get all the residue off. but if your going to respray anyways that residue (looked foggy) shouldn’t be an issue then.

#15

Remember the old typewriter erasures with the brush on one end and an erasure you could sharpen in a pencil sharpener? Office supply and stationary stores still have them. Soak with your favorite solvent and then gentiley rub with the erasure soaked in the solvent for lubrication and to kind of wet sand during removal.

#16

Actually Joe

Kevin did an article on Castrol super clean awhile back for removing the lettering on Bachmann stuff. I have used the super clean for years at my garage (for it’s purpose) and when I saw that article I thought huuumm. However I tried it last year on a USA car and it worked great. I rushed the job a bit with a plastic scraper but all in all it worked better than other ways I have tried and would not recommend unless your VERY careful(such as brake fluid ,etc.)

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/Amtrak%20Material%20Handling%20Car/002.jpg)

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/Amtrak%20Material%20Handling%20Car/007.jpg)

That is just clean up water to the right of the door