What do you guys use for working MU cables? I have been using the common two wire connector for years. pic below.
It’s been ok, but seems big and ugly with the connectors hanging between engines. If it’s just one, say for a battery, it ain’t bad. But when you have two (motors and speaker) it gets too much. It would be nice to hide these plugs somehow and just have wires in between.
Any ideas?
I have used these connecters with success
http://www.micromark.com/mini-connector-kit-pkg-of-10,8839.html
Richard
I use the ones you you are showing John and don’t worry about it. For the sound line from my trail car I use the 3 conductor version so I can do combinations of series-parallel wiring of speakers to keep the impedance within spec of the sound board.
I too have been using the same couplers as John has for years.
You might also like to cut off the hook part. The reason being is that sometimes they have been known to rip wires out of the parts when a derailment occurs. Better they can just pull apart.
The hold a join just fine without the hook.
I wanted a different look. My battery car is a water car for my desert evirons…
Ive used these on a few of my engines.
The 4 prong connector I double up so there’s usually 2 between the tender and engine. One for the motor and the second for lights and chuff.
Mated interlock assembly with 12" wire leads. Measures 1/4" wide and is rated @ 1 Amp. (This wire can also be ordered separately, see part number 48-428-25.)
They’re made by Miniatronics
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=4
John, there was an article in Garden Railways magazine a while back about using mini plugs for electrical connections between locomotives. The female plugs are mounted flush on the inside of the locomotives end plate and a short cable with male connectors was made for the MU cable. It looked nice also! Since we are dealing with 12 to 24 volts, there is not overheating problem. You might want to check it out.
Ron
The miniatronics connectors are small, easy to use, and (by noted the white dots) self-polarizing. They are relatively expensive (IMHO), but that is off-set by their small size, there’s no effort to using them, and the do (again, IMHO) look more like mu-cables than anything else I’ve seen.
John,
Most of the ideas presented so far would work good for a lighting (ie low amp) circuit. For a larger circuit I would be worried about the amp load on small wires.
Dave M. on his BL2 build is taking a interesting approach.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/19288/getting-another-build-off-my-buc/view/page/11
I can’t edit my previous posts…
The water hose carry 2 16 ga flex wires and the plugs were picked for non-shorting conections. Many use that style for charging.
John - I put together some notes on various connectors on my web page - have a look and see if anything might be what you are looking for.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Articles/Connectors/index.htm
dave
As Tony mentioned you can trim the locking hook off the male connector to make it look smaller.
I also trim the wings off the female connector when using them as battery charging connector on a rear diesel pilot. You can see it here on the back of a USAT GP38-2.
(http://ovgrs.peterbramahphotography.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/ChargePlug4.jpg)
This also works well when using them as an MU plug for new LGB locomotives that have the two pin header on the back.
(http://ovgrs.peterbramahphotography.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Header.jpg)
The LGB 2-pin header has a pop-on cover to hide it when not in use.
jb, you won’t notice it from a galloping horse, especially if its painted black.
