Large Scale Central

Need Concrete Roadbed Suggestions

As we listen to the rain coming down and hope that it helps the dirt get settled in the dug out area of our new layout the talk has turned to roadbed. After searching the forum and reading the posts on using concrete for the roadbed I noticed most of them are 2 to 3 (or more) years old. So I am looking to those of you who have lived with concrete as a roadbed for awhile to give the lowdown on it!

So my questions are;

  1. how thick did you pour the concrete
  2. did you use rebar or anything like it
  3. did you use ballast on top of the concrete
  4. how well has it worked out for you
  5. would you do it again or what would you do differently

I need to build this layout as maintenance free as possible and for weed control, leveling and other issues this sounds like it may be the way to go. Any and all tips are greatly appreciated.

Jim

Ladder…Ladder… Did I say Ladder roadbed

8" x 16" x 2" patio blocks. You’ll still need to re-level occasionally, tho.

Jim it depends on were you live. The only Osage Beach I know of is in Missouri and we tend to get lots of ground heave there so you would have to have some thick pads and rebarb would be a good thing as well. I would say go with a ladder system. less cost and easyer to change down the road if you need to. Jon has usde concrete on parts of his layout and from what I can tell has had good luck so far with it. Me I just free float it on a 10" bed of minus.

Jim,
Jon Radder will probably chime in sooner or later.
Rather than re-bar, thin concrete pours often use stakes that resemble metal tent stakes.
Ralph

Jim Schneider said:
As we listen to the rain coming down and hope that it helps the dirt get settled in the dug out area of our new layout the talk has turned to roadbed. After searching the forum and reading the posts on using concrete for the roadbed I noticed most of them are 2 to 3 (or more) years old. So I am looking to those of you who have lived with concrete as a roadbed for awhile to give the lowdown on it!

So my questions are;

  1. how thick did you pour the concrete
  2. did you use rebar or anything like it
  3. did you use ballast on top of the concrete
  4. how well has it worked out for you
  5. would you do it again or what would you do differently

I need to build this layout as maintenance free as possible and for weed control, leveling and other issues this sounds like it may be the way to go. Any and all tips are greatly appreciated.

Jim


I’ve done some of most every type. Concrete works well, so long as you plan no changes in the future. I’ve seen a couple of different methods used. My method is based on the article published by Marty Cozad over at MLS. I use it under all of my switches and have one straight run against my house that is all concrete.

Answers to your questions…

  1. About 3.5 inches. I am in the Northeast where we get may freeze-thaw cycles each year.

  2. Yes. Primarily I use metal wire fencing, cut to fit inside the forms. I have also used pre-cut pieces of Rebar from Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure your reinforcement is supported above the bottom of the pour. When using cut wire fence, I pour an inch or so, drop in a section, pour another inch, then drop in another section.

  3. Yes and no. I like the look of ballast, but it tends to migrate off the concrete quite quickly. In areas where I have switches, I keep the ballast away from the points. On grades, the rain will wash ballast into my switches which is a constant source of maintenance work.

  4. I’m very happy with my switch pads and the one section. My current tunnel project will add another section of concrete roadbed between an existing switch pad and the tunnel. I’ve had some slight cracking, but it’s not an operational issue. The roadbed section has been in place about 5 years now and has held up well.

  5. Yes, where appropriate. For me, appropriate means level runs where the track will never change. My method has evolved a bit, but I’m not planning any major changes.

For me the jury is still out on ladder roadbed. I have a short section in place now, just coming out from the first winter. Frost pushed all of my stakes up, but I was able to easily push them (with the track and roadbed in place) back into the ground in late winter.

Once my tunnel is done, the next project continues an expansion loop. The loop will be built on ladder roadbed which is easier on curves and grades.

Cozad pours his concrete 2 inches thick and puts 3/8 inch rebar in it.

He seems to do it well, so I’d be inclined to imitate him.

Cozad pours his concrete 2 inches thick and puts 3/8 inch rebar in it.

He seems to do it well, so I’d be inclined to imitate him.

Is there an echo in here?

Jim - I found a few photos for you… The beginning of my one section of roadbed while under construction…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/cross11-640.jpg)

Occasionally, things don’t work out as planned. Here I had to chisel out some roadbed…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/cross14-640.jpg)

Then re-pour…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/cross15-640.jpg)

Installing a switch pad extension last summer: The form…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-07-720.JPG)

Form in place…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-08-720.JPG)

Checking alignment…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-10-720.JPG)

And pour…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-11-720.JPG)

Forms off…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-12-720.jpg)

Another oops…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-15-720.jpg)

Track in place and a transition to ladder…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-41-720.jpg)

Operational…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/NewSw-51-720.jpg)

I have alot of concrete roadbed! If you get moss in you rarea you will have some problems! I have several section of concrete. 1. Raise it up several inchs above the grass. 2. use No. 3 Bar for reinforcement, easy to bend and not to heavy. use long splices. 3. If you use a tall section i.e. a foot or more, use vertical bars and more that one horizontal bar. 4. Track connection - find someone who is doing a new deck in the nonwood (Trex, etc.) and from the scrapes cut small block to set in the freash concrete and when set screw the track down to that. I have several tall sections of roadbed. Remember concrete weathers.

I’ll keep trying to get a picture or two in here!

Paul

I’ve used 8"x8"x16" and 6"x8"x16" concrete blocks lain end to end. I do not tie them together in any way, but let their weight (39# for the larger, 25# for the smaller) hold them in place. They afford the advantages that your layout is NOT “cast in concrete” - you can move the blocks up and down and around if necessary days or years later, you can easily add more without having to get out the cement mixer, I think they are less expensive per foot than concrete PLUS reenforcing rod, and they are not as messy to work with as wet cement. My local building supply gets $2.15 apiece for the larger size, but I found them at Home Depot for $0.97 each, and the smaller for around $0.79 each. I fill the holes with scrap rock or crummy dirt, lay the track on the block or on a thin layer of #5 roof rock ballast that I bond with a 50:50 solution of water and concrete bonding adhesive. Another large part of my layout is underlain with common brick. Yeah, I ought to submit a photo to show you what works well for me. Maybe in a few days.

Art nice website. I stole this picture from your site hope that is ok

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/geogeorge/_forumfiles/22brick.jpg)

this is his brick work.

Joe, thanks for the pictures and everyone else for their ideas it all helped so much. I found Marty Cozads original article in the archives over on MLS which also helped. I was worried about frost heave but Marty said it is no different than a sidewalk which made alot of sense. After 10 years he hasn’t had a problem with it.

This is looking more and more like the way for us to go.

Jim

Thanks, Geoff, for pulling an image of my brickwork from my web page. Golly, Emma has certainly grown up since that picture, and so have all the plants I put in that space. So I have put together some recent pictures on my website. Here is the URL. Click on it and have a look at what I’ve been doing since that 2002 picture of Emma.

http://www.geol.ucsb.edu/faculty/sylvester/LP&Pweb/LP&Ptrestle/LP&Ptrestle-Pages/LP&P_bridge01.html