Large Scale Central

My latest project, partially complete

Modeling
#21
Bruce Chandler said:
Those windows look great! I think you've mastered that technique.

I guess you mix the cement VERY thick, so it doesn’t soak through to the mold itself? I like the effect - the stone wall look great.


The mortar is actually mixed pretty thin, about the consistency of pancake batter. You want it to pour easily and seep in between the stones a little, but not so thin that it gets under them.

As for the window frames, I wouldn’t say I’ve mastered that yet but I’m getting there. I never could keep them from sticking to the jig. What I ended up doing is, I had a couple small rectangles of glass (mirrors, actually) which I taped down to a large glass surface. These form an “L” shape, with a nice 90 degree corner. Then I build the frames in this corner. I’m just putting the muntins in by “eyeball”.

These first windows are pretty simple. Next I want to try some double-hung windows. I’d also like to try making some old fashioned windows that swing open like a double door, if I can find hinges small enough.

#22

Ray that looks awsome. You are the stone master when it comes to making thigs with stone. I think that building would look better on the KMRR :slight_smile:

#23

Once again, you deliver something completely unique and beautifully done. I’m especially impressed with your mistake repairs. If you hadn’t shown the mortar ooze problem no-one would have ever know those stones on the corner were fakes :smiley:

You have an incredible eye for color. I can tell when something looks right, but don’t have the skills to get good color results without a lot or trial and error. The window frame / door paint is awesome too.

Will there be a pillar to support the corner of the second story?

#24
Ray Dunakin said:
Jerry, I got the idea for the paint effect from Chuck Doan over on the Westlake/Finescale forum. Except his method is slightly different and was intended for real wood. It doesn't work quite the same on styrene.
Ray - when you get a moment, could you post a link to Chuck's article? I could probably use his techniques on my wood car builds.

Thanks !

#25
Jon Radder said:
Once again, you deliver something completely unique and beautifully done. I'm especially impressed with your mistake repairs. If you hadn't shown the mortar ooze problem no-one would have ever know those stones on the corner were fakes :D

You have an incredible eye for color. I can tell when something looks right, but don’t have the skills to get good color results without a lot or trial and error. The window frame / door paint is awesome too.

Will there be a pillar to support the corner of the second story?


Thanks! Yes, I’ll be putting in a post of some sort there.

#26
Jon Radder said:
Ray - when you get a moment, could you post a link to Chuck's article? I could probably use his techniques on my wood car builds.
He explained it in a post on the Finescale forums:

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=381.0

I don’t know how well the stuff he uses would hold up outdoors though. He does indoor models.

Here’s Chuck’s website, he has a lot of truly amazing work there. Very inspiring. I have a hard time navigating his site though because it’s slower than continental drift, on my dialup connection:

http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

#27

Thanks Ray. I’ll check that out. I don’t leave rolling stock outside so his ideas might work for me.

#28

More progress: I’ve been working on the roof. It’s removeable, and fits down between the front and rear walls.

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1207.jpg)

I want to use the attic vents to be open, on the theory that this will prevent moisture building up in the structure. So I had to cut rough openings in the roof insert, to correspond with the position of the vents. The vents will be fitted with some kind of small screen to keep out bugs.

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1201.jpg)

The ends of the rafters are just small pieces glued to the eaves. The top of the wall fits into the gap:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1197.jpg)

The trim at the top of the wall is notched to fit the rafters:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1203.jpg)

Here you can see how it comes together:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1206.jpg)

The ceiling for the first level of the house is attached to the underside of the second story. It fits into the stone walls of the first level, “keying” the second level in place yet making it easy to remove.

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1209.jpg)

I still have to detail the rear wall and the other side wall, and I haven’t decided yet what material will be on the roof.

#29

Wow.
You knock out these beautiful, scratch-built, masterpieces faster than I can
crudely slap together a kit.
And now you show us you are just as talented using materials other than stone.
BTW- Part two in Garden Railways was excellent. One of these days I am going to
get up enough nerve to give your technique a try.
Ralph

#30

That looks great, Ray. Why are you making everything removable? It looks like a nice fit, so you shouldn’t have to worry about wind taking it.

Venting seems to be important. I’ve got one building that I need to put another vent in - I get too much condensation right now.

#31

Bruce, this building will have interior lights so I need to be able to get inside, both for the original installation as well as for any future repairs or replacements.

Even without lights, I’d still prefer to have accessibility, since you never know what changes or repairs may be required at a later date.

#32

I’d love to do lights - they just look so neat. But, then I’d have to wire stuff. So, no lights here. Either way, accessibility is good.

#33

Excellent

#34
Bruce Chandler said:
I'd love to do lights - they just look so neat. But, then I'd have to wire stuff. So, no lights here. Either way, accessibility is good.
Battery r/c ???? Battery power with some type of clicker remote to turn them on and off. No wires needed. If you use LED's a set of Lithium AA's would probably last all season.
#35

OK. You caught me. It’s really my poor planning. I should have done what Ray is doing.

#36

I made a fancy “wood” post for the front porch of the house. It’s actually bits of telescoping square brass tubing, soldered together. I also added a thin coat of solder to the major surfaces, to aid in scribing simulated wood grain. It’ll be a while before I can paint it, but here’s how it looks unpainted:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1224.jpg)

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1226.jpg)

I also made a ceiling-mounted lamp for the front porch. It’s made from a brass brad, and a round, plastic button:

(http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/StoneHouse1/wIMG_1222.jpg)

I drilled out the interior of the spherical button. When a grain of rice bulb is inserted and lit, the effect is really nice.

#37

Truely another level. Thanks Ray.

#38

Really marvelous work Ray

#39

Excellent work Ray.

also try this site for how to make sash windows

http://www.gscalemad.co.uk/sash_windows.htm

some good information there
regards
Dave

#40

Very nice…

Jon.