Large Scale Central

My Indoor Basement Layout

I posted this in another forum but I figured that I would share the info here. Last fall, I decided to build an indoor layout in my basement. I figured it would be a good fall/winter project. I quickly found out that it was quite a project! It has been a long, fun journey and I have been learning things along the way. I had these trains set up on a layout in my father’s basement about 15 years ago but they were just on plywood on saw horses. This one is much better. The demensions are basically 36 feet by 14 feet. One end is only 11 feet wide because I have to allow room for some french double doors that lead out to the back of the house. I’m basically using all LGB track except for the 9 foot and 10 foot radius Aristocraft curved track on each end and the Aristocraft extra wide turnouts for the crossovers between the outer loop and inner loop. The layout design is basically an oval with double track going all the way around. There is a yard on one side and a couple of sidings for passenger car storage. Below are a couple of pictures of what I had setup on the floor before I started building this layout. It’s was just a temporary layout. I put down some outdoor carpeting on the floor so I don’t have to walk on the bare concrete. That’s why the floor looks so dark. This picture shows the french doors all the way to the right of the picture.

On November 11th, I received all the wood I ordered to build my tables. It was delivered to my house. I finished building the tables around mid-January. The tables are about 40" high which give me a good height of viewing the trains. Below is what they look like:

If you look on the right side of this picture, you can see the french doors that I was talking about earlier.

Taken from one side.

Taken from the opposite side. As you can see from the pictures, I put in some additional flourescent lighting. It’s so much brighter! After the tables were built, I painted them a flat earth color brown so that the bright wood wouldn’t show through the scenery. I layed down most of the track to see how everything fit. I had to cut a couple of pieces of track to make everything fit. I bought a Bridgewerks Magnum 220 RM. It’s soooo nice! It has two train controllers so that you can control two train independantly. Something happened to it right when I started using it and I had to send it back to Bridgewerks for repair. A couple of weeks later, I got it back and it has worked great since. I didn’t know how to build a control panel so I found instructions from the National Model Railroaders Association website. It’s basically a box with a wooden lid that’s on a hinge so I can get inside to do maintenence on the wires if I have to. Screwed on top of the lid will be sheetmetal. I painted the sheetmetal two coats of white. I then used thin tape to mark out the scamatic of the layout. I then painted it with two coats of black. I peeled off the tape and the white paint showed the scamatic. I then mounted my toggle switches on here. Eventually I will post pictures of the control panel. I first bought single pole, double throw, center off toggles. I found out that I needed double pole, double throw, center off toggles to keep everything isolated. Some people might think that this is reduntant but it works for me. The wiring of the track was tedius but needed to be done. Below are pictures of what the layout looks like with the track layed down. I’m using 3/8" pink foam padding under the track for sound insulation when the trains are running. Not all the foam is down yet. I will eventually add ballast (starter grit) so the foam won’t show.

This is a picture of my yard. All the buildings that are on the layout (the yard tower and the freight depot) are building kits that I built for an indoor layout that I had in my dad’s basement about 15 years ago.

Another view of the yard.

This is a freight train being pulled by my UP F3 (my favorite loco!). I also have a UP F3B unit too along with additional freight cars that are not on the layout yet until I’m finished with the track work.

The yard from a different angle.

This is a double track bridge that I built out of wood. The sides are actually functional and not just for looks. There are cross braces that support the bottom part that the track is sitting on and these braces’ ends are screwed to the sides. The bridge is very sturdy. I painted it with two coats of flat black paint.

Off to the left side of this picture and in the background, you can see my Bridgewerks transformer and control panel that I built. I’m almost finished with the track work. I have to finish putting the foam under the track, screw/nail the track down, wire up the turnouts, and then put the ballast down. Then it’s on to scenery. I plan on putting in a mountain with a tunnel. I have never done this scenery thing so I guess I’m going learn as I go. I will keep everyone up to date with additional pictures. J.R.

Hi John,

That should keep you busy.

On the scenery, very easy to do using styrofoam with the honeycomb method - light and sturdy.

Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Hi John,

That should keep you busy.

On the scenery, very easy to do using styrofoam with the honeycomb method - light and sturdy.


Hans,

What do you mean by “honeycomb mehod?”

J.R.

John OConnor said:
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Hi John,

That should keep you busy.

On the scenery, very easy to do using styrofoam with the honeycomb method - light and sturdy.


Hans,

What do you mean by “honeycomb mehod?”

J.R.


John,

Some people stack the styrofoam - either solid vertical or horizontal layers - and then carve/shape it. Instead of doing that you cut a base (and the back, if up against a wall) to shape, then cut the basic contour risers. Space them about six inches apart, glue to base, fill in the gaps between the risers with more styrofoam, but only were required for the scenery face.

You’ll end up with a structure that is light, sturdy and has all the nice features of a solid scenery base. Comes in very handy for planting trees (much better than plaster shell scenery) and saves on the styrofoam.

We shape our styrofoam three different ways

a) heavy duty utility knife (OLFA HD)
b) Hot-Wire cutting rig
c) Stanley sureform tool

After shaping with the sureform (that is messy but gives a more uneven texture than cutting with the hotwire) slap on the cheap latex paint and sprinkle ground foam, real sand and whatever else you are going to use into the paint. The paint acts as an adhesive.

Very nice! Good luck with the scenery, it’s not really difficult and can be a lot of fun.

John,

There is a small tunnel/mountain required on the elevated portion of our layout. I’ll post some “How we do it” pictures on the honeycomb method. :wink: :slight_smile:

Looks Great ! I sure miss having a basement.

I haven’t been on this forum in a while and I forgot that I had a thread going. Quite a lot has happened on my layout. For quite some time I was putting down ballast for the track. It has taken a long time because 14 months ago, my wife and I had a baby boy so I’ve been busy with that. The past couple of weeks, I’ve been working on a moutain/tunnel project for one of the ends of the layout. I wanted to post some pics of the progress. Some ballast pics:

Some mountain/tunnel pics:

I bought 1/4" thick plywood at Home Depot. I came up with a design on paper, traced lines on the plywood and cut. I then attached the plywood to the table. In the corners, I used “L” brackets to keep the corners together. Here are the pictures of what it looks like:

Those two white lines in the middle of the picture are plastic seals that are used for windows that I stapled to the plywood. They cover the cracks that are from the hatch door that will allow me access inside the tunnel in case a train should de-rail in the tunnel. I wanted to do that so that light wouldn’t shine through when someone is looking in the tunnel portal. About 11 months ago, I wanted to buy USAT’s UP Southern Pacific Heritage SD-70 but it wasn’t out yet so I bought a standard Union Pacific SD-70MAC but with sound from Charles Ro. The engine has been great and I love the sound! My birthday was about a month ago and I got some Charles Ro gift certificates so I went to the store and bought the UP 1996 Southern Pacific heritage unit but I didn’t get sound on this one. I figure I’ll get sound put in later. When I put it on the tracks, one of the head lights was not working so I returned it and they gave me another unit. I took some pictures and wanted to post them. The two SD-70’s look great together!

So that’s the latest on my layout. I’ll post later with more updates. J.R.

Looking good John :smiley: I like the pink foam roadbed. I thought about doing that and cut a few experimental pieces, but never did it. I’m right on the plywood on my indoor division. I was also too lazy to paint the wood so I put down some grass mat. I have no scenery at all and most of my benchwork is just plywood on temporary supports. If I ever get motivated, I have a basement remodel in mind at which time I’ll build more permanent benchwork. I don’t have many pictures of the current indoor layout. All I could find on-line are these…

Jon,

Yeah, I got the pink foam idea from a person on another forum. I got it at Home Depot. It cost $38 and I still have a ton of it left! It’s hard finding the time to work on the layout when you have a family but I try to fit it in when I can. I would like to have all scenery on my layout when I’m done. I have big plans for my layout but I don’t know when I’ll get it all done.

J.R.

Looking good, john!

Doing a nice job.
I sure wish I had a basement. Although it is probably better I don’t. The outdoor train keeps me broke enough.
Ralph

Nice.
So far I’ve never seen the pink foam for sale anywhere around here.

Ray,

The pink foam comes in 3/8" thick and it’s in folded accordian sections. I just had to cut it out and place it under the tracks.

J.R.

Isn’t the difference between the pink foam and the blue foam just a different manufacturer?

That looks great! Right about now, when it’s gray and wet and cold outside, I really envy an indoor layout

Ric Golding said:
Isn't the difference between the pink foam and the blue foam just a different manufacturer?
Actually no they are not the same..The pink foam is much nicer to work with. It carves nicer and scores cleaner. The pink stuff seems more porous where the blue is more dense. I personally can't work the blue stuff very well. BTW...very nice layout John

“Actually no they are not the same…The pink foam is much nicer to work with. It carves nicer and scores cleaner. The pink stuff seems more porous where the blue is more dense. I personally can’t work the blue stuff very well.”

I never knew that. Pink does not seem to be readily available around here. However, I’ve never made it a big project to find it when I could get the blue stuff locally.

David, I’ll try to find some pink stuff on your recommendation.

I’ve used the Blue stuff for my Portable layout, it carved great, the denser foam gives a more solid looking apperance. I would get a small piece of BOTH the pink and the blue stuff, experiment with it, THEN decide which looks and works better for your application. carved:

painted:

final:

Victor,

I’ve used a lot of the blue without problems. Just no opportunity to try the pink.