Large Scale Central

My First Build

Modeling
#21

David Russell said:

You can also use image tags with the URL

Devon

The build looks great so far but why did you wrap the boiler with the cork first? Is there a specific reasoning for this?


hopefully the pictures showed up. If not look at the album or the ones above for reference. Nope that didn’t work either.

Yes the idea was to create the different diameters for the smoke box and the jacketed boiler. I started with an 1 1/4" PVC which left the boiler and smoke box being the same diameter. I did not like this. On that other site a guy there suggested the cork. it is 1/16 inch gasket material then covered by .010" plastic. This gives it the prototypical “step” seen on where the jacket is lagged to the smoke box. At least that was the idea.

I am open to other ideas of how this was addressed.
devon

#22

Devon

No other ideas on my end as I have only ever built one steam loco from scratch and probably my last. I was just questioning the use of the cork and you explained it for me.

#23

Test…OK Devon…it’s the spaces in the URL that it doesn’t like http://largescalecentral.com/albums/photo/view/album_id/12198/photo_id/108745....now if you hit that link and right click it, view image then copy/paste in the “tree” it should fly for you

#24

(http://largescalecentral.com/albums/photo/view/album_id/12198/photo_id/108745....now)

Ok so I even switched to firefox and copied the exact link above and nothing.

#25

Ok I am not what I would call a computer idiot. I have tried this every way to Sunday. An everything I try gives me a broken link. I don’t want to keep wasting space here trying. So until I do figure it out I will just have to post the link to the album. For those of you following along you will have to check it out from there. :wink:

#26

http://largescalecentral.com/albums/photo/view/album_id/12198/photo_id/108745....now

That link above is for a page that has a picture on it, not the picture itself.

This is the link for just the picture.

http://largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/c1/c8/01/1c5fa_53a2.jpg?c=0ece

Entering that in the tree icon, it gives you this:

#27

Devon Sinsley said:

Ok I am not what I would call a computer idiot. I have tried this every way to Sunday. An everything I try gives me a broken link. I don’t want to keep wasting space here trying. So until I do figure it out I will just have to post the link to the album. For those of you following along you will have to check it out from there. :wink:

There is a Forum page for testing links and stuff.

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/22/testing-forum

Or you can just enter the link for the picture and one of us will post the picture for you…:wink:

#28

Ok I finally did it.

But what did I do. I copied that link. I just need to figure out how to get that link

#29

Yippie I figured it out. At least in firefox. Still wouldn’t work in IE.

So here is an update I added the rear boiler section leaving a gap for the cab to fit over. It is spliced with a piece of brass pipe. I also used the existing hole in the chassis to make the sunken floor of the prototype. This will allow me to properly detail the back head. which extended below the floor between the drivers where the fire box door is.

New cab floor.

Rear Boiler section

This is the Utah and Northern #11 mine #3 was the U & N 14 but same loco

#30

Devon,

Is this project to be a static locomotive or a runnable one?

#31

Joe Zullo said:

Devon,

Is this project to be a static locomotive or a runnable one?

Well since its my first it may be static if I didn’t do it right :wink:

No it is meant to run. It is built with a Bachmann 10 wheeler motor, gearbox and axels. It will be R/C-Battery. Since it has such a small boiler and that will all be taken up with lead shot for weight I will have to make the tender hold the R/C receiver/control board as well as the speaker and sound unit (at least that is the plan). I will then use separate battery cars for power. The prototype used a caboose made from an old box car. In every photograph except one that I have ever seen of the prototype, 1 of the 4 cabooses was present. So I will make at least a couple cabooses that are battery cars that can be plugged in and always have one ready.

#32

Thanks for answering my query. Best of luck. It looks like you have a good start and a good plan. I will be following your progress.

#33

So I needed to put some weight in this little loco I figured about 2# should do it but how to get it in there. I had thought over some options and came up with this. The boiler is made wit the thinner walled PVC. I had a piece of thicker walled pipe. So I used it to pour a slug of lead. I weighed out 2# of lead. I wanted a hole in it to run wire to the front for the light so I put a big nail in it. I poured the lead, cooled it, the cut the PVC off. I pounded the nail out and presto a tailor made 2# weight. It slide right in. I ran the wire and used Gorilla glue to fix it in place. Since gorilla glue expands it should hold it nice. I might run a self taping screw in where the steam dome will go to hold it for security.

Couple of down sides. I had to pry off the back head to do it. Also I didn’t plan out the wire very well ahead of time. I had to drill a hole where the stack will go in order to fish them through. I will cross the bridge of what to do there later.

Well thats my update.

The mold

The slug

Installed

#34

OK so I need to paint what I have so far before I get too involved with detailing and make it impossible to reach places. The way I made this did not allow me to take it apart. Something I will remedy the next go around. So I need to get some paint on places that will be hard to reach.

As an HO indoor guy I strictly used acrylic paint. However with outdoor use I am concerned that being water based will give me problems. I don’t plan to leave it in the weather but things happen and outdoors is still not indoors. Should I switch to enamel or am I fine with acrylic. The only reason I like acrylic is the clean up in my airbrush so the problem really is minor.

What is the favorite “black” for an old locomotive. I am struggling between the “new” look or a good old weathered look. Most likely it will be weathered. Oh an it wont be planished the prototype was painted black throughout.

Also when it comes to weathering I was wondering about an undercoat of say a deep red oxide under the black then as sharp edges are weathered the “rust” would show through. . . yes? no? what you think. I ave never weathered a steamer just modern diesels so I wouldn’t mind some tips.

#35

I’ve never had problems with acrylic outdoors. If you are really worried, you can use an oil base clear coat, once you are satisfied with the weathering and all. Probably be wise to use something UV resistant in the clear coat, anyway.

#36

I’ve never had problems with acrylic outdoors. If you are really worried, you can use an oil base clear coat, once you are satisfied with the weathering and all. Probably be wise to use something UV resistant in the clear coat, anyway.

Now I have the hiccoughs. :wink:

#37

Steve Featherkile said:

I’ve never had problems with acrylic outdoors. If you are really worried, you can use an oil base clear coat, once you are satisfied with the weathering and all. Probably be wise to use something UV resistant in the clear coat, anyway.

Now I have the hiccoughs. :wink:

Ok since I have some DRG Red and Some Steam Loco black in acrylic I shot it with black Krylon primer and then some red ad then the black. I will clear coat the thing when its all done. I will add pictures when it is dry.

#38

Devon Sinsley said:

Steve Featherkile said:

I’ve never had problems with acrylic outdoors. If you are really worried, you can use an oil base clear coat, once you are satisfied with the weathering and all. Probably be wise to use something UV resistant in the clear coat, anyway.

Now I have the hiccoughs. :wink:

Ok since I have some DRG Red and Some Steam Loco black in acrylic I shot it with black Krylon primer and then some red ad then the black. I will clear coat the thing when its all done. I will add pictures when it is dry.

Just remember to do a test on a piece of scrap, first. You don’t want to ruin your hard work because of incompatibility.

#39

Steve Featherkile said:

Devon Sinsley said:

Steve Featherkile said:

I’ve never had problems with acrylic outdoors. If you are really worried, you can use an oil base clear coat, once you are satisfied with the weathering and all. Probably be wise to use something UV resistant in the clear coat, anyway.

Now I have the hiccoughs. :wink:

Ok since I have some DRG Red and Some Steam Loco black in acrylic I shot it with black Krylon primer and then some red ad then the black. I will clear coat the thing when its all done. I will add pictures when it is dry.

Just remember to do a test on a piece of scrap, first. You don’t want to ruin your hard work because of incompatibility.

Been there done that. I used a spray clear one time that reacted with an acrylic that I used and my model ended up with a very chic crackle paint job.

#40

So here is an update. The chassis and and boiler got painted. I went with black primer and then DRG red and then Steam loco black. I hope when i hit it with some sand paper on the hard edges the red will show through for a rusty effect.

Next I started on the headlight. First the prototype has a huge headlight. So I needed to make it by hand. I also wanted it to be operational. But I didnt want visible wires. As the light sticks infront of the smoke box this was an issue. So I came up with the idea to make the base side brackets with brass and then solder wire to it to run p to the light and then solder wire that would go through a hole in the boiler where the bracket attaches. Mocked up it looks great.

Base and headlight

Mocked up on loco