David,
If the axles are not parallel to one another, and as I have thought about it square to the frame, then I will go back and try and make it so. If its off, I am hoping it isn’t, it won’t be by much. That was one thing I actually did try to get right. Heck I might have even verified it two years ago when I built the chassis, who can remember that far back.
The good news is the axles are parallel and square to the frame. I mean about as dead on as I will ever be able to get. I am pleased with that. So I think my problem was either a weak rod or a rod of improper length of both.
That is being solved. I think I will get that right this time what ever the issue was. The new design will be string and precise.
Devon,
I have no idea where you are going to use the string, but make it strong this time around. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
OK Joe you can pick on me for my grammar but you gotta give me the typos (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif). After a day of writing papers for school and proofreading and correcting. I wasn’t gonna proof read my post (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
But ewe kneed two proufread, sew wee can understand.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
David Maynard said:
But ewe kneed two proufread, sew wee can understand.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I don’t know why this made me think of it but one of my favorite scenes from the movie Airplane (or was it Airplane 2) where the black guy is speaking jive and no one understands him so the little old lady says she speaks jive and translates. Hilarious.
Devon,
Yeah, I remember that scene too. It was the first Airplane I think and the little old lady was Barbara Billingsley from Leave it to Beaver fame. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Devon, is it done, yet? Tested and ready to go?
Not yet Steve. I have some homework to get done that is my top priority but then the next thing on my list is those side rods. I have one almost built I will get it finished today and hopefully it will fit and line up and be happy. If so I will make the other one tomorrow and Sunday. Then I will test it and hopefully run it at the Garden show.
I need to quit messing with the track design and get to soldering.
Hi, Devon,
I would cut two side rod blanks, tape them together and drill them. that way They will be the same. If you still have a problem I would then check the frame.
Chuck
That’s good advice Chuck and is sorta what I planned to do. Instead of making two and potentially ruining both I hope to make one and when that is right tape them (I was thinking clamping but tape is a better idea) together and drill the second one through the holes of the first. I think I am even going to go buy a cheap machinist vise for my drill press. I have wanted one and this is a good reason to get one so that I can make the holes precision.
I have already checked the frame and I pretty convinced I have it right. I also verified that the axles are square to the frame and that the axle centers are exactly the same distance relative to each other side for side. I really believe it was a weak design that was the major problem that was made worse by not having the holes exactly right so that it wanted to reverse the wheels which eventually took its toll.
These new ones will be all brass ( not solid but soldered) so strength won’t be an issue. I just have to get the holes right and I think I will be OK.
Devon, if you can take the motor out, or loose, in the locomotive, the wheels should turn freely by hand with NO binding, if the rods and wheels are right. The wheels should turn smooth and free.
I am not real sure how to separate the motor from the gears on the 10 wheeler. That unit seems to all be fixed but admittedly I have not tried. But I have so many ten wheelers now that I can from another none drive axel and drop it in and do the same thing. I will play with that. I also realized I can make a small wood template to get the holes right before drilling the side rods.
Using your idea to on how to verify smooth operation by using a wood blank for a drilling template then use Chuck’s idea and tape it all together and drill both at the same time using the template.
Off to work on it.
OK I need some advice on this. So yesterday was not the best day for this project. I had the one side rod almost done and went to drill it and ripped out the end and ruined it. A lesson was learned in that on these I can leave them long, drill them, then cut them to length so there is meat to drill without having to worry about that happening. So I made a new one and got it done and drilled. Its not detailed yet but it is a functioning side rod. I love the design of this rod it will be very strong, but when I fit it to the loco it still wants to reverse the front wheel.
Before I go further I have a question, since side rods are quartered I am thinking that since I only have one on right now that this could be the problem. Do you have to have both side rods on in order to prevent the reversing, or should it work with only one? It is very close but at the point where the rod is forward or rearward it just doesn’t bring the front wheel around. Does it on both sides the same way. I am convinced I have the length right. When I help the front wheel by hand at that moment it runs smooth. So I am thinking that by having both rods on, the side that is at top or bottom will help the one that is forward or rearward come around.
I just don’t want to waste a bunch of brass building another rod and have to wrong ones. Although I am thinking that if I build the second one exactly the same then worst case scenario I have to rebuild the front chassis. I even went back and verified that all axles are parallel to one another (same distance between centers) and square with the frame ( measured each center relative to frame corners).
So if the second rod doesn’t solve this problem then I will be at a loss.
Devon,
You are OK. You need to have BOTH side rods on. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Joe Zullo said:
Devon,
You are OK. You need to have BOTH side rods on. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I figured as much. But I am starting to second guess myself. I will go forward with the second rod then. Thanks for reassuring me Joe.
Yes, both rods, and that is why they are “quartered”.
Did you use a jig when you set your rod pins? Did you use a quartering jig so they match? Did you use a drill press when you drilled your rods, cutting oil?
Did ya get er done? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John
John Caughey said:
Did you use a jig when you set your rod pins? Did you use a quartering jig so they match? Did you use a drill press when you drilled your rods, cutting oil?
Did ya get er done? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John
I never took apart the B-mann wheels. So the pins and the quartering should be good (at least as good as what Bachmann made them). Yes I used a drill press with a machinist vise to drill them. Made sure the drill press was square with the vise and that the rods were level in the vise. I used cutting oil while drilling and went very slow. So the holes in the rod should be good.
I will need to get that second rod done. Like I said I was frustrated and second guessing my abilities. I was pretty sure it would require the second rod to prevent the reversing. Makes sense why they are quartered. I am just glad to be reassured.
I need a piece of brass before I can continue.
I wish I had found this supplier earlier. I have been using K&S brass from my hardware store, hobby lobby, or hobby town and was limited to their stock on hand. I was using 1/16 X 1/4 brass strip doubled up and soldered together to make the main portion of the side rod. I went to a place called Alcobra metals and was able to get 1/8X 1/4 So it will be one piece.
