Large Scale Central

MTH Hudson issue

I own a first run MTH Hudson, not even sure exactly when it was made, I just remember waiting a few years for it to come in after it was announced (like everything MTH has ever done in G-scale).
Anyway, on my old layout the Hudson never saw much use because of the tight radius curves, but even with very limited use (less then 3-hours) the original drivetrain failed.(it looked like it had a broken axle as the wheels could not even rotate)
My local dealer repaired it under warranty with a complete new drivetrain, when I finally had gotten the engine back all I did was test it to make sure it worked (back and forth on a straight section, then back in the box).
I am guessing, but this was probably 10 years ago(?).
So after building my new layout last year with larger radius curves I decided to give the engine another try. And as I remembered the smoke and the sound was fantastic… but run wise, not so much.
The engine (like my new Accucraft 45T switcher) had a bad waddle (wheels are not true) and it just bothered me seeing a big engine like this not run smooth so… back on the shelf it went.
For some reason last night I wanted to give it another try, my track had been recently all re-leveled and we smoothened the grade out to less then 1% in my one troublesome corner (which is now trouble free).
Set the engine on the track, applied some power, the sound started up, the smoke started to pump out, the train started moving slowly… moved about 4’ and then the sound system started the break squeal like I was slowing the engine down (which I was not) and then it just abruptly stopped and went into reverse!
Now all it does is go in reverse, you can hear something clicking inside the engine when you switch the track power forward/reverse… but it does not change the direction of the loco… just runs in reverse.

Any ideas, or should I just resort to knowing this engine was destined to be a shelf queen?

Sad, it is such a beautiful engine. Wish I could help.

Sounds like it is a reversing relay on the main board.

I’d look up the closest authorized repair center.

good luck!

Greg

A used one I picked up a few years ago works fine. When you apply power to the track, it should not move till you start it up with the remote and move the throttle wheel. If it starts to move when you turn on the track power, you need to flip the polarity switch, or the remote is not controlling the engine. Might check out Ray Manley’s MTH pages. He’s the guy I’d send it to, if you still have a problem. He does have a stronger drive train he can put into it also. http://www.rayman4449.com/DCS_Overview_Videos.htm

Jerry Barnes said:

A used one I picked up a few years ago works fine. When you apply power to the track, it should not move till you start it up with the remote and move the throttle wheel. If it starts to move when you turn on the track power, you need to flip the polarity switch, or the remote is not controlling the engine. Might check out Ray Manley’s MTH pages. He’s the guy I’d send it to, if you still have a problem. He does have a stronger drive train he can put into it also. http://www.rayman4449.com/DCS_Overview_Videos.htm

I don’t use the DCS system, just normal track power.
The engine started as normal and everything seemed fine for the first four feet…
I emailed Ray from the link you posted, I will see if he can add anything.

When was the last time the internal battery was replaced? I know when operating under DCS with a low or dead battery the engine will do all kinds of strange things…Jim

jim miller said:

When was the last time the internal battery was replaced? I know when operating under DCS with a low or dead battery the engine will do all kinds of strange things…Jim

after ten years, I would think the battery would be dead.

Joe Paonessa said:

jim miller said:

When was the last time the internal battery was replaced? I know when operating under DCS with a low or dead battery the engine will do all kinds of strange things…Jim

after ten years, I would think the battery would be dead.

Could be that’s why the loco is acting loco…

Proud member of The Department of Redundancy Department

For now I think it will remain a shelf queen…
The shipping costs + the repair will be close to $350 (if it is the board).
Think I will put it aside until the winter when I can spend some time trying to pull it apart myself and see if changing the board is something I can do on my own.
Also will see if I can change / charge the battery.

Vincent don’t feel bad. I have a shelf queen too. An Aristo Consolidation. She doesn’t run worth a darn, but she sure is pretty.

Vincent,

My brother has an MTH Big Boy that we’ve run extensively on straight DC. It’s been a hassle too.

Try the polarity switch in the smokebox (assuming its where the one is in the Big Boy) and see if that helps. That gave us a ton of grief too.

If that doesn’t work I’ll see what else I can think up.

The consolidation can be fixed… see my pages… the MTH electronics cost what they cost.

Greg

Not related to your problem, but is this engine scaled in 1:29 or 1:32?

Noel

Noel Crawford said:

Not related to your problem, but is this engine scaled in 1:29 or 1:32?

Noel

All MTH 1-gauge is 1:32

Greg Elmassian said:

… the MTH electronics cost what they cost.

Greg

The cost of the replacement board was around $160 + shipping, if I felt comfortable enough pulling the engine apart and replacing it on my own I would do it… but I don’t.
So after guessing at what shipping costs would be to/from and for the repair I am guessing around $350 by the time it is all said and done.
Considering I paid $699 for the engine when it was new back in 2004(?) and have had horrible luck with it, to pay almost half of what I originally paid for it seems to be a bit much to pay to repair this engine.
I have had great luck with there VO1000 diesels they produced (I own 2) they run beautiful, just never had luck with the Hudson.

Polarity switch for the Hudson is near the frame , under the cab. Ray shows where they are all at, on his web site. Early BB’s did not have it. Challenger is behind the boiler door.

Yes Greg I know. All I need is time, space, a micro torch, a lathe would help…

I am sorry, I have derailed another thread