Large Scale Central

Moving Train-LI Switch points with LGB 1201 Motors ?

Greetings folks, as of lately I’ve decided to get into some electrical funny business with an LGB 5175 switch control box, to power a trio of LGB 1201 motor boxes that I’ve attached to my Train-LI/Trainline45 R4 turnouts. Right away I’ve found that these motors are rather reluctant to push around the points of Train-LI’s switches even at the LGB-recommended 18 volts AC, whereas they can be shoved side to side with my fingers. Wiring up a spare LGB R1 switch with the exact same drive yields an actual snappy response, which leads me to believe that the TL45 turnouts have a good deal more physical friction in their components. My current plan is to continuously step up the input AC voltage until they actually yield operation, having read that 24-26 volts is at times necessary for operation of LGB units outside.

Am I on the right track with pumping more voltage into the motors until they overcome the forces at hand? I purposefully replaced my LGB R3 1605/1615 switches with the Trainline turnouts as they have the powered central frog that helps with my multitude of smaller-wheelbase locomotives. Not sure I’ve seen anyone put LGB 1201 switch motors onto their switches, but I would assume they are compatible to an extent if they attach in the exact same place with the same hardware.

I separate the half-wave -/gnd from the +/gnd and put a cap across each one observing proper polarity. The cap will boost the voltage (by the sq rt of 2) but will bleed down to the non-cap voltage once the cap discharges. This will keep you from burning out the motor should the switch get stuck/held too long in an on position. For safety, the caps need a rating of 35 volts or more and a couple hundred mfd should get you there.

I use the LGB booster for my switches. A capacitor can increase the voltage by about 1.414, but one must remember this is a half wave pulse and there is no power for 1/2 the time. Caps and LGB booster overcome this lull.