Hi all,
Been milling, soldering and spiking for the past few days (off and on). Just have to assemble the redesigned throwbars (complete with switches for frog power 
) and more track will go down.
All but one turnout completed, the incomplete one on the right with the frog insulating strips.
The rail clamps are in the mail, with a bit of luck sheâll be powered by the weekend. The rolling stock is just there to see if the siding is long enough. 
Oh yeah, the bare spot left-bottom is where the turntable goes, eventually. Kind of handy with a point-to-point layout that has one or two steamers. 
Whatâs the white stuff under your track?
Ken,
That is 1/2" pink Styrofoam for roadbed.
oh yeaâŚlooking closer at it , it does appear pinkâŚ
And people used to tease me about my pink loco!
Tom Ruby said:Tom, ;)
And people used to tease me about my pink loco! :D
Not to worry, as soon as the foundation sand and the ballast is applied, no-one will be the wiser whatâs underneath. Except for the difference in sound between the turnouts and the track. That will have them wondering.
Iâd like to try making some switches one day. Looks too difficult though.
No point if you donât try .
Pun intended Mike?
Andreâ
Yup
Bryan Johnson said:Bryan,
I'd like to try making some switches one day. Looks too difficult though.
When youâre ready have a look at my Step-by-Step explanations http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/E/html/track.html
(complete with tools and materials list ) . It isnât as difficult as people imagine.
And there will be an add-on shortly, concerning a simpler, more reliable means to power the frog and keep the points in place.
And as soon as I get the super-duper turnout motors from Germany Iâll report on those, too.
The other update will be about the base material when the turnouts are on the ground. The 6mm PVC boards are ready to go.
I have built many, many turnouts - to cover the range of commercially available rail sizes Iâm planning on building a LH RH set in Z scale with Code 40 rail. Afterall that is only marginally smaller than Code55 - and I had lots of fun laying the track and switches for a HOn3 layout segment a customer ordered.
Hans,
Given your explanation, I actually think that I can build one of these switches. Iâll probably give it a go once i get settled in my new digs.
Your source for ties (sleepers) says they no longer make most of their stuff, and in any case, no longer sell to the public. Is Ozarc or Garden Texture a suitable substitute? I have a table saw, so I could probably make my own. What size for US style in 1:29?
madwolf
Steve Featherkile said:
Hans,Given your explanation, I actually think that I can build one of these switches. Iâll probably give it a go once i get settled in my new digs.
Your source for ties (sleepers) says they no longer make most of their stuff, and in any case, no longer sell to the public. Is Ozarc or Garden Texture a suitable substitute? I have a table saw, so I could probably make my own. What size for US style in 1:29?
madwolf
Ozark gets his Red Cedar from IBEC, since we use the âstuffâ on a commercial basis we can still get what we need.
Size?? Depends what you model and the track you use, as long as it looks more or less the same you should be OK.
Hi, This is a very good idea, to nail and solder the rails directly to the ties. It creates this light field railway look we are sometimes after and saves much time and money. We work with that technique on our 32mm /750mm railway. Simply spikes on laser cut road bed. I prefer the Metre gauge or 3 feet look (have to compromise) with tie plates or rail clamps.
On the left is Swiss stainless steel profile, code 250 with Ozark tieplates, Sunset Valley spikes, on Meranti hard wood ties. Redwood was difficult to get in Germany last year, but I have a source now. The swiss profile is identical to LLagas Creek products, which can be seen in the middle. I love to work with their nickel turnout kits. A very good price and a very good quality. Almost idiot proof to assemble. Always worth the long wait for delivery. The advantage of Nickel is, you can give it a rusty colour fairly easy with acid stains. Have Fun Juergen Zirner