Large Scale Central

Modelling questions

Modeling
#1

I am working on an EBT shop model.

I have been using 1:24 for a scale.

The first question is this. I checked this piece against Rich Yoder’s 1:20.3 and am about

.5 to .75 too short in height. While I don’t $ee owning one of his models in the near term,

‘never’ is a long time. How would you folks proceed?

Second question - I know there is varied discussion in building windows. How have you folks been doing windows when both sides of the window is going to be visible.

Third question is about lighting. The shop has lighting - think bulb hanging on a wire. my preference is led’s but am open… What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the feedback

FYI the main shop complex will be made up of 7 pieces. This is one end of the engine pits in the shop.

The idea is to incorporate this into a portable display that can be used to create interest in the Rail line.

The reality is that it may already too late to make a difference, we will see.

#2

Interesting project.

On the engine house it is not too late to raise the roof.

You’ve got only 8 vertical supports to extend or replace.

It would be a shame to close yourself out to the nice 1:20.3 models available.

#3

I agree with Don. Right now it shouldn’t be too much trouble to extend or replace the vertical supports. That’s what I would recommend if there’s even a chance that you might acquire some 1:20 locos in the future. And the manufacturers seem to be going in that direction – there aren’t many 1/24th locos available these days.

#4

Double stack the outside beams …bottom or top your choice …or for that matter perhaps both. Yoder makes some pretty bangin models though.

#5

First of all - A very ambitious project for a (still) worthy cause. Even if the trains never run again there is a ton of history that can and should be preserved. Keep up the good work.

While 1:24 is a good choice for easy measuring, availability of detail parts and die cast cars it is unfortunately a poor choice for railroad models. I have to agree with everyone else that you up-scale your models while it still can be done. Even if you can never afford an RY or Accucraft loco, the Bachmann and AMS hoppers are very nice and would add to your static display without breaking the bank.

#6

am about .5 to .75 too short in height. How would you folks proceed?

as the others said, put longer posts now, or live with the difference.

How have you folks been doing windows when both sides of the window is going to be visible.

use the transparent plastic from blisterpacks and glue stripes of styrene or wood to both sides.

The shop has lighting - think bulb hanging on a wire. my preference is led’s but am open… What are your thoughts?

have you thought about “grain of rice” bulbs from christmas decoration?

they would look nicer hanging from wire, than LEDs would.

#7

Another way to raise the height would be to put heavy wooden breckets between the posts and the beam. These brackets typically are cut with fancy ogee-shaped ends. While you’re at it I guess I’d recommend the full 3/4" thickness, if you plan to get some of the larger locos that seem to be all the rage these days…

I’m sticking to the older, slightly smaller models, 1:22 and 1:24, as the 1:20 babies would dwarf my small city backyard.

I build my structures to 1:24 scale myself, but I’ll adapt them as required for clearance where trains interract with them.

#8

Your Second question.

I use plexi glass for my windows and for frames will sometimes use a plastic moulding piece found in most HD and Lowes etc… The moulding is used on panels for bathrooms and placed on the end I believe. A end cap? You will need to trim the back piece off and then you will have a nice U shape that will slip onto the plexi which will give you a inside and out frame.

The trim comes in a 8’ piece for under $1.50

grain of rice bulbs are a great idea. LED’s can be scuffed up so they are not so bright.

#9

Oh, that molding you use is a great idea, Todd!

#10

Todd Haskins said:

Your Second question.

I use plexi glass for my windows and for frames will sometimes use a plastic moulding piece found in most HD and Lowes etc… The moulding is used on panels for bathrooms and placed on the end I believe. A end cap? You will need to trim the back piece off and then you will have a nice U shape that will slip onto the plexi which will give you a inside and out frame.

The trim comes in a 8’ piece for under $1.50

grain of rice bulbs are a great idea. LED’s can be scuffed up so they are not so bright.

The moulding piece is a good idea. Lowe’s is my “go to” hobby shop. I was wondering if you could post a picture of the moulding you are referring to?? This would help at my next visit to the hobby shop.

Doc Tom

#11

Thanks for the feedback. As far as the changes I think Korm said it well, change it now or live with the difference. I think I will do a piece of wall to see what the extended hight does to the overall appearance. I’ve gotten a lot of ideas and thing to try from the forums. As far as lighting, I may bypass my intrigue with leds for now and stay with the grain of wheat. (Where have you folks been buying them). Going to “borrow” the pvc foam board idea for some brickwork.

One more question, what tool are you folks using to cut styrene strips (for windows)?

Thanks Again

CD

#12

I would never try to cut styrene strips from a sheet - they have a tendency to curl, as well as have a lip from the cutting. I get most of my strips from https://www.hobbylinc.com/

#13

Clair D said:

…the grain of wheat. (Where have you folks been buying them).

what tool are you folks using to cut styrene strips (for windows)?

decades ago i bought some from a H0 model-shop. nowadays i cut them out from christmas decoration.(these nets to hang into windows. just count the bulbs, and divide the household voltage by the number of bulbs - than connect enough bulbs in series to meet the voltage of a transformer for cordless telefones or else)

i got a very old paper cutter. pieces too long for that i cut using a ruler and a carpet knife.

#14

I use a balsa stripper that I got from Micromark…

http://www.micromark.com/wood-strip-cutter,6625.html

(http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/14568_R.jpg)