Hi Guys:
Would the owner of the Model T Ford
in photo of 08/16/2012 in front of GOODSON HARDWARE
tell me the source of the Model T Ford model.
Looks like a nice model to buy.
Thank you,
Norman
Hi Guys:
Would the owner of the Model T Ford
in photo of 08/16/2012 in front of GOODSON HARDWARE
tell me the source of the Model T Ford model.
Looks like a nice model to buy.
Thank you,
Norman
I believe that’s Bruce Chandler’s layout and he told me his source is E-Bay.
Correct, but you might have to wait a bit for the right one to show up on e-Bay. Some folks think that they can get rich selling their models. I’m sure I didn’t pay over $30 for that kit.
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/gallery/plog-content/images/main-gallery/120/img_5679.jpg)
The Hubley/gabriel models range from $10 - $100 on ebay. You can usually find them for about $30 though. There is a third maker of them but the name escapes me right now. The kits are the same though just different companies with the same molds. They are about the only source for 1:20 models.
Terry
Is “Goodson Hardware” in any possible relation to the previously prolific LS contributor, Dave Goodson of the North (actually Kirkland, WA)? Who knows, going into business on this “small scale” could be a winner.
He didn’t build this business, someone built it for him ;)
Rick Marty said:Oh, oh. :(
He didn't build this business, someone built it for him ;);)
Wendell Hanks said:
Is “Goodson Hardware” in any possible relation to the previously prolific LS contributor, Dave Goodson of the North (actually Kirkland, WA)? Who knows, going into business on this “small scale” could be a winner.
Very much the same. I operated on Dave’s layout in April 2008. Cold and rainy, but I was out there for 8 hours. :o Lots of fun!!! Plus, it was great finally meeting Dave.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Goodson_Golding/IMG_3726.JPG)
Later that year, I continued my tradition of naming buildings and industries after folks I have operated with.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Goodson_Golding/IMG_5635.JPG)
The signs on the hardware store read Batteries, Ford Parts, Guns & Ammo, Repairs. I did my best to modify one of my store bought figures as well…
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Goodson_Golding/IMG_5593.JPG)
He’s even holding a miniature RCS.
Sigh, here I go again, being a know-it-all who sounds like he wants to disparage Bruce Chandler, an excellent modeler whose only sin is associating with Goodson.
Anyway, as one who has built about a dozen Hubley kits, they are not 1:20.3, if that matters to you. They’re more like 1:24 and work OK with 1:22, although I’d prolly park them away from say, a structure, to mask the disparity in scale. Based on what’s been said on the large scale sites, the closest you can get to 1:20.3 is 1:18, which some of the special, ready-to-run cars are. I believe Richard Schmitt, the Florida modeler who’s part of that fanastic modular layout whose name has escaped me, has a stake truck he weathered, that looks about right. It’s pretty big, but then, if ya build big (1:20.3), think big. BTW, Bruce, if you want to lend a real air of authenticity to that store, park a ratty old Jag-you-are out front.
AND what about the ever-present cigar?!!!
Gary Armitstead said:
AND what about the ever-present cigar?!!!
It’s there…just a bit hard to see.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Goodson_Golding/IMG_5548.JPG)
Joe, Not sure I agree with the scale on the Hubley kits. Here’s a comparative shot I took many years ago…
(http://jbrr.com/assets/images/Comparison.JPG)
Left to right - A 1:19 Solido Ford Pickup, a 1:20 person, a 1:20 Hubley kit Ford, a 1:22.5 person, and a 1:24 vehicle. Though I have not measured any of my vehicles, so I cannot accurately say… :o
Joe Rusz said:
Sigh, here I go again, being a know-it-all who sounds like he wants to disparage Bruce Chandler, an excellent modeler whose only sin is associating with Goodson.Anyway, as one who has built about a dozen Hubley kits, they are not 1:20.3, if that matters to you. They’re more like 1:24 and work OK with 1:22, although I’d prolly park them away from say, a structure, to mask the disparity in scale. Based on what’s been said on the large scale sites, the closest you can get to 1:20.3 is 1:18, which some of the special, ready-to-run cars are. I believe Richard Schmitt, the Florida modeler who’s part of that fanastic modular layout whose name has escaped me, has a stake truck he weathered, that looks about right. It’s pretty big, but then, if ya build big (1:20.3), think big. BTW, Bruce, if you want to lend a real air of authenticity to that store, park a ratty old Jag-you-are out front.
I found that the 1932 Chevy Coupe has a wheel base of 109".
I measured the wheelbase on my model – it’s about 5 3/8". Multiply that by 20.32 and I get 109.22.
Length is 167", mine scales to 167.64". Actual height 69.4, model about 69".
Ford Model A Town Sedan - length 152". Model is the same. Height 69". Model is the same.
I should probably use my caliper to get more accurate measurements - these were done by holding up a tape measure against the car, but they do seem close enough.
Now, I haven’t measured ALL of my different models, but the rest look close to 1:20. Certainly not 1:24. :o
Bruce, now I really feel like a schmuck. Sorry for all the commotion. Actually, I tried the measuring thing some time ago when I checked the specs of my Hubleys against the actual numbers in a book called “Henry’s Lady,” which is a great pictorial about the Model A. The numbers didn’t really add up, but what the heck. I was–and still am, structure-wise–modeling in 1:22.5. I also tried putting some figures in one of my cars and the 1:24-scale Preiser people (with the occasional limb lopped off) fit best, unlike the Bachmann handcar guy (the one with the derby hat) and the Bachmann conductor, which IMHO, are truly 1:22.5, and would not fit, although they look OK standing next to the vehicle. Anyway, much to do about nothing, to quote the immortal bard. Or, if it looks right, then it is right. BTW, those e-Bay listings are tempting as some of those prices are bargains (my model kits averaged $25).
Joe, Not really! I’ve always wondered about the scale, but never done anything about it. The dimensions I got were from the internet…who knows??? SOME of the models are a different scale (Packard, or Dusenberg?), but it sure looks like the Ford and Chevy are spot on for 1:20. I know what you mean about seated guys not fitting, but I tend to not put folks in my cars. I do know that the 1:20 seated guy I had didn’t look quite right by my 1:24 car.
I own a (full scale) 1931 Ford AA truck. Comparing the dimensions of the hood, fenders and other parts that are common between the truck and the Hubley Model A kits resulted in a very high degree of accuracy when 1:20 was used as the scale factor. It has been several years since I did the comparison, but as I remember, things like fender and hood widths and lengths were within one or two scale inches.
As to figures not fitting, I am extremely uncomfortable in my full scale AA truck. The cab was definitely designed for a smaller person and the seat is fixed in all axis. That in spite of the fact that I am slightly under 6’ and not very big frame or around. Early day automobiles were just smaller. Add to that the fact that a model figure has clothes that are rigid, and that the extremities don’t move to adapt to the space available like a real human, and it becomes difficult (impossible!) to rely on whether a figure fits in determining scale.
Happy (Scale Model) RRing,
Jerry
Yipes!
Dave is out of scale. Better yet, memorialize him in 1:29! Ah, the dark side of 1:20.
Dave, we deserve a full measure. I have yet to read a retort, rebuttal, or any of your analysis on this blatantly accurate depiction.
Wendell
True dat, whatever it may be. Hey Bruce, just wanta say, that store interior is impressive. Lots of nice gee-gaws in the windows. I’m always at a loss for what to put inside, which is why so many of my building projects (Orbisonia firehouse, Rider Crossing general store, old-time gas station, small hotel) stall out near completion. The cabin (see “Modeling”) somehow slipped through the filter.
Hubleys (and later ERTL) kits were so close to 1:20 as to be right on the money. I have several dozen, all Fords, except for the Duesenberg. I traded all the General Misunderstandings off for Fords.
Bruce has the figure down pretty good…right to the requisite coveralls.
I had a 1929 Tudor once, compared the measurements to my original Hubleys, and it is, as stated, so close you can’t tell any difference.
I put a bunch of them out for the GR feature story, mostly they stay put away.
Oh, and Joe, you are. For the record. But I won’t tell anybody.
TOC
Gary Armitstead said:
AND what about the ever-present cigar?!!!
Bruce Chandler said:
It’s there…just a bit hard to see.(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Goodson_Golding/IMG_5548.JPG)
…:)…
Bruce Chandler said:
Correct, but you might have to wait a bit for the right one to show up on e-Bay. Some folks think that they can get rich selling their models. I’m sure I didn’t pay over $30 for that kit.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/gallery/plog-content/images/main-gallery/120/img_5679.jpg)
Gotta tell you a story. 27 years ago we had a house fire. In the attic was an original Hubley Model “A” Roadster unopened kit. Not sealed, just none of the bags were opened. The box was toast. The plastic bags were crinkled up. The metal bits had white growth all over them. BUT: The original invoice was inside (my brother had bought it, I inherited it)…$4.95. Since it was “collectible”, original (now blackened) box, with the receipt, the insurance company paid $200 for it, and I got permission to throw it away with all the “junk”. Couple of years later, I cut the metal parts off the sprues, filed and fit, glass beaded the lot, assembled and painted, and it’s just fine, still. I’ve seen the stuff overpriced on evilbait, for $20-$30 they are great units. I have one Model “T”…got a bag once with seven of them in it from someone who was going to throw them away. Rebuilt all but one, which, due to extreme fender damage and such, became my batter powered work truck. Still runs…fwd-rev switch in in the floor, with a piece of brass tube for the gearshift attached, push it forward, it goes forwar, centre off, back is reverse. TOC