Has anyone set up a kiln or drying oven for “G” scale models?
I would like to paint in the winter, but don’t want to heat the shop up that high of a
temperature. (Would cost me a fortune in electricity.)
I need at least 26" of room inside. (Or more).
I’m assuming the kitchen oven has been ruled “off limits” by Household Management… 
Steve
Absolutely, Steve!
Now I wish I would have saved the old oven from my kitchen remodel this year.
John;
Do you have a local appliance dealership that takes the old stoves whenever they deliver a new one? The dealership may be willing to let you have a castoff for very cheap or free.
Just a thought,
David Meashey
I built a small one many years ago out of the elements from a 4 slice toaster. Worked great! Hot enough to dry the paint, but not hot enough to burn it.
Bob C.
An old “household” oven could easily result in a fire. They are not designed to run at the “low” temps curing a model requires. A “closed” industrial oven with forced ventilation is your only safe bet here…And they are rarely free.
It’s tough to paint in Minnesota in the winter. I wait for a day above 30F, sunny preferred. I keep the model indoors while I place the spray-can in a few inches of hot water. I then “race” outside…spray a few light coats and then bring both the paint and model back inside. I then place the model a few feet in front of my gas fireplace/stove and “bake” it. I wait until the paint is fully cured (a day) and start the process again. Yep, it can get smelly.
Like I said, it sucks being a northern modeler in the winter.
Edit: I do own a kiln for glass slumping…but I usually run it around 1,200-1,500F. Might not be ideal for painting.
The long winded version, is years back my family owned a shoe repair. A new contact cement came on the market for setting the sole and/or heel to the shoe. This cement needed too be heated to fully activate and the heat unit was out of the familys budget ability.
My father studied the picture of the heat unit for a few days and decided to make his own. I plan on following his idea for my paint baking/drying needs in the near future.
First up was a hood about 12" deep , lined with aluminum foil to direct the heat.This was 8" wide at the top and 16" wide at the bottom , and for our needs at the time 18" long. He then mounted two light bulb sockets to the top under side with a 30 minute heavy duty timer and a plug. this was then mounted 12" above the table surface where the shoes were placed once the glue was applied. For the glue the timer was set for up to 1 min 30 seconds , and two 150 watt Heat lamps were used. This set up provided enough heat to burn your skin if not carefull.
Now you know the unit works and is safe. I plan on placing the lamps I use 4’ above my work surface and making the area 3’ deep and 3’ wide with a lazy susan on the base. I will try one Heat lamp on the timer first, and add an additional lamp if needed. Timing will also have to be played with and a thermometer will be used to control the heat.
I will not close an area in, but I will put a dust block up at the doorway when painting.
Just placing a heat lamp in a corner of your shop work area and being able to temporarily block the area off will give you what you need and not take up a lot of space. JUST MAKE SURE YOU USE RATED EQUIPMENT OR HAVE A PROFESSIONAL PUT IT IN FOR YOU. Not yelling just want you to heed the warning
Don’t get those lamps too close to a plastic model. Been there, done that & melted a hopper :o
Thanks for the info Jon. That said a few 100 watt light bulbs can be used
Maybe I should have been a bit more detailed. The one I built was for ‘O’ scale (1:48), and was approximately 3x as long as the care and probably 4 or 5 times as deep. The table for the paint project was about 9 inches above the top of the elements (flat on the bottom of the box), and sitting on a couple of fire bricks. The box was ventilated with small slots on the bottom of the sides and a small stack vent in the center of the top. Natural convection did the trick. The basic box was steel plate (3/16" thick if my memory is right).
Bob C.
also - any switch you use to control the light should be rated for an explosive environment. You don’t want to spray something, flip the switch and a spark ruin the whole model - not to mention the house.
Dave,
That’s a good idea. I will make my own with heat lamps.
(Actually a good friend with a wood shop will make it. He doesn’t know
that yet until he reads this. Right, Chuck?..
)
I’m limited to space in my shop so I’ll have to make it portable.
John, since you have decided to go with the set up, and paying heed to what Jon added about melting a plastic hopper. I suggest you arm yourself with a bit of info. I googled heat lamps and came up with this http://www.heatlamps.org/
which may start you out. And remember 100 watt bulbs put off a good bit of heat themselves and may well serve our purpose of slowly baking the paint.