Don’t know when I will be able to afford one, but since I’m at least starting to think about getting a digital camera, I’m wondering if anyone can recommend to me what sort of specifications I should look for? What is the minimum I should get, and what would be optimal assuming I could spend a bit more?
Ray, You cannot go wrong with Cannon, I have 2 an A70 and a S21S. The A70 is way more user friendly, but out of production. I f you can find a used A70 it would be worth the money. Amazon.com has several listed for under $140.00 used. Good luck.
John
Ray Dunakin said:Ray,
Don't know when I will be able to afford one, but since I'm at least starting to think about getting a digital camera, I'm wondering if anyone can recommend to me what sort of specifications I should look for? What is the minimum I should get, and what would be optimal assuming I could spend a bit more?
If you plan on submitting pictures to publications I’d say go for at least 5Meg. BTW not all 5Meg cams are created equal. 
If you plan on using it just for snap shots, Internet etc. you can get away with less.
If you buy a point&shoot, get one that has a 10x (or more) zoom feature.
I was looking at 7.1 megapixel cameras last night for under $200. Lots of features including the zoom and the ability to take videos too.
Canon Rebel XTi
What kind of shooting do you see yourself doing? If you’re doing generic snapshots of vacations, family, and the occasional view of the railroad, then any of the point-and-shoot cameras out there will be ample. Go with one that feels the most user friendly. The results on a 4 x 6" print will be virtually indistinguishable.
If you are a bit more serious about getting good photos of your railroad, then you’ll want a camera with a few manual overrides that allow you to set either the aperture or the shutter speed, depending on whether you need a fast shutter or great depth of field. For shooting models, a good macro capability is a good thing to have as well.
John mentioned Canon’s S2IS as a good choice, and I would agree, though I believe it’s also out of production–replaced with the S3IS. The “IS” stands for “image stabilization” which is a good thing to have if you can get it. It really helps those shaky shots in low light where the camera would usually depend on flash or a long shutter speed (or both). It’s got a street price between $350 and $400.
I personally like cameras with larger diameter lenses (like the S3IS and similar cameras) because the image sensors tend to be larger in them as well. A small 6mp sensor will have more noise in the image than a larger 6mp sensor. Here again, most point-and-shoot cameras mitigate this with image processing, but larger optics–generally speaking–give clearer, sharper images to begin with.
Check out http://www.dpreview.com to read some very good reviews and comparisons of the various cameras out there. One bit of warning–it will be information overload.
Personally, if you can afford it, I’d go with a DSLR. The latest round of “entry level” cameras are all VERY good. Most perform as well as their more expensive mid and high-dollar cameras, though the users of those cameras are loathe to admit it. Nikon and Canon just upgraded their entry-level lines, so the older models can be had fairly inexpensively. Canon’s XT (which I’ve got) can be found for $600 with lens–cheaper than Nikon’s “new” entry-level D40 or its predecessor D50, and with more features.
Later,
K
Nobody has mentioned getting a second hand model , or end of line . They can be remarkably cheap , and quite often come with a guarantee if second hand .
I purchased an end of line Olympus set complete with telephoto , wide angle , zoom , and "normal " lenses .
That came with a (then) expensive large capacity card , has the ability to take microcards and normal , full set of bags and protection , programme for computer and lens hoods . The whole kit came to less than I had paid for a catadioptric 600mm lens for a “K” fitting 35mm .
For those "dammit , should have had the camera with us " shots , we got a zoom Canon , about $150 , and small enough to hide in the car somewhere .
One thing to consider is what you can do now with computer programmes that make a lot of the frippery on cameras superfluous for the average user .
Go to a decent camera chain shop , don’t buy from the first one you go to . Shop around , look at the adverts in mags .
With regard to computer processing , take the example of macro . If you take a near to (not macro ) photo on the highest definition , the computer will blow it up to nearly the same as macro . If you wany a full size , frame filling bee , you need macro . If you want the detail of a buffer beam , you need close up and computer process .
Mike
Andre Schofield said:If it's to be a DSLR, I second that. I got the Digital Rebel and I won't be trading up 'til I can get a Canon EOS30D for the same price of my Digital Rebel in 2004. Meantime I get the extra lenses. ;) :D
Canon Rebel XTi
Since I am heavily invested in Canon lenses, mine will have to be Canon as well. I (well, er, actually, my lovely bride has) have a Canon Power Shot S40 that I got her for Christmas a few years back. It has served us well in that time. To set the example for her using my stuff, I always ask if I can use it. For some reason, she doesn’t get the hint. I guess I’ll have to get her her own tools. 
SteveF
Steve Featherkile said:
… I guess I’ll have to get her her own tools.
Steve, 
You better be careful how you phrase that when you bring it up.
Just had a look at your photos, Ray. #3, the bridge, is going to work big-time for us. Shortly after we married, my wife and I bought some plastic and glass frames to house her slide collection. The kids came along, and the project never happened - the frames ended up gathering dust. These frames are dead ringers for what you used as a basis for your plate girder bridge! Never would’ve thought of it if you hadn’t posted that photo . . . .