Large Scale Central

mini/hobby table saws

Tools and Tips
#1

I was talking with my backer today and when I said a new saw motor was on tap because the old blew the GFI, I was asked if a new hobby saw might be a good birthday present?

I said that and a new power circuit to my saw and casting shop. There will be another thread regarding that shop.

To my surprise an affirmative was granted. So question 1 what is a good full featured hobby table saw? I’m happy with mid grade quality vs a name brand, but no Harbor Freight for this.

My 10" is accurate down to 3/8" with longer stock.

This is a simple ;I like _______________ because; pros and cons.

Thanks,

John

#2

It depends on what you are working with. My Proxxon saw (same as the Microlux from Micro Mark) is great for making small lumber. But I need to start with stock an inch think or less. I have a carbide blade for it, so I can chunk down larger stock if I have to, but a larger saw would be better for that.

Using a sharp blade in the Proxxon, I can get some really nice lumber down to 1/16th of an inch square. I have even gone smaller, but I have to work slower and more careful when I am down in that range. The Proxxon even has a rubber connection where I can hook my shop vac up to it and control the sawdust. It has variable speeds, and a blade that can be angled from vertical to 45º.

I am sure there are more capable saws out there, but this one does the job I need it to do. And the latest version comes with a fence that cane be adjusted easier then the old fence style mine came with. Mine has to be over 10 years old, and I think its the best purchase I could have made for my little shop. If I had more room, I would have looked for something a bit bigger, maybe, or maybe not.

#3

I’ve got an old Dremel table saw with a carbide-tipped blade. It’s a little lethargic on stock greater than 1/2", but for the $50 I paid for it, I’ve got zero complaints. It’ll cut right through a locomotive frame or passenger car body as needed for kitbashing. If I need to rip larger stock, that’s why I have a full-size table saw and band saw.

If you’ve got the money, the Proxxon is probably going to have more oopmh, bells, and whistles. But if you don’t need oomph, bells, or whistles (and can find one used), then I’d say buy the cheap saw and another locomotive with the savings. :wink:

Later,

K

#4

Best Microsaw IMO is the Byrnes Model Machines offering. I have previously owned the Dremel, Jarmac, Proxxon 4" saws.

The Micro Mark and Proxxon offerings are very good too. Proxxon and Micro Mark appear to be from the same OEM, yet I believe the Micro Mark has a more powerful motor.

Michael

#5

Boy that Byrnes is a sweet saw, if I were younger and doing serious modeling …

I’d like a dial in fence and a tilting blade…

So far the Proxxon FET is ahead, still looking.

Thanks for the replies so far.

John

#6

I have the “el cheapo” Mirco-Mark table saw and it seems to work okay, but I would like to upgrade to the slightly nicer saw as I think the fence on the one I have is a piece of junk… The fence doesn’t even go 1/2 way past the blade so I end up using a straight edge to make my own fence. It’s slightly underpowered for anything under 1/4", but it cuts styrene just fine. The table itself is smaller than the bigger saw, and the blade isn’t adjustable. That said, it’s a nice saw for it’s price range and I think that the short comings could be easily fixed. The first would be to simply make a longer fence. With the fine tooth blade I’ve had success cutting some strips down smaller than 1/16"

#7

John,

It doesn’t seem that the Byrnes saw $450 is that much more than the Mirco-Mark model $380. But the “el-cheapo” is only $150… So is it worth the short comings? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

#8

Craig, when I saw the specs and picture of that saw I wondered why they even made it. The next one up is the one I have, and now they have an improved version with a better fence system.

When I bought mine, I didn’t know that there was even such a thing as a hobby table saw like this. I heard rumors about a no longer made Dremel one, but stuff I cant get doesn’t do me any good.

John, I think its a good idea that you are getting input on what is out there.

#9

David,

I can’t complain too much about my saw as it was a gift… I did ask for the more expensive one, but the powers to be thought otherwise. I have used it quite a bit for non hobby stuff. My family makes gingerbread houses every Christmas, and it works great to square up or even cut up the gingerbread. My BIL borrowed it for a while to make wood business cards. His co-workers didn’t believe him when he told them about the mini saw. The bang of the buck is quite well, but you get what you pay for.

#10

I got my Dremel at a BAGRS meeting, used and without a blade, fence, belt. Got what I needed online from various places. Not a lot of torque, but I’m cutting small stuff that’s relatively soft, mostly wood and plastic. It was $50, other parts about equal amounts.

#11

Craig Townsend said:

John,

It doesn’t seem that the Byrnes saw $450 is that much more than the Mirco-Mark model $380. But the “el-cheapo” is only $150… So is it worth the short comings? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

Oh, then again after you add $120 for the tilting table, which is the only way to tilt the blade and a couple more necessities it does add up. The Proxxon FET was $330 w/free shipping Amazon with the features I specified; a dial in fence and a tilting blade.

I tilt my table and band saw all the time. On my old band saw I can tilt in either direction, I like coming in from below, nothing falls into the blade.

Any way. Thanks for the input, I put in a request for the ProxxonFET.

Cross your fingers for good luck, I have similar powers that be… we’ll see…

John

#12

John, I hope you’ll like your Proxxon FET. I got one years ago and it is the most used power tool I have. I have no complaints (I also always use a vacuum hooked up to it when I’m making lots of cuts and always clean the inside out before putting it away - it collects a lot of saw dust - and spits some out - but that just might be the fact that I know enough to get myself into trouble (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)). Ok maybe one complaint that the latch to keep the saw open when I’m cleaning the inside out didn’t completely latch one time and the heavy top fell on my hand. Ouch. Learned my lesson and I now always make sure the latch it engaged before I clean it out.

#13

@ Craig, John, et All. I too was gifted the cheep Micro-mark saw. Oh Well, The rip fence is basically useless, and the crosscut is only slightly better.

Set out to fix the shortcomings and here are two of the fixes

.

The cross cut I made from wood, Set at 90 and with the long tongue stays square. The rip fence I milled.

Fence is of 1/2" bar stock. I used the tightener from the original. Fits on either side of the blade. Its adjusted to be parallel to the blade.

99% of all that I cut is Square cuts. The fence alone has tripled my using pleasure. I can get repeatable cuts with consistent size. I also built a “Mini Sled” that cuts 45’s. I have a foot switch that turns it on-off, so I don’t have to mess with the power button. And I mounted it to a board that slips over the “Pull out Bread board” on my work bench, so it is well secured and doesn’t move about.

My single biggest complaint… Underpowered! But if you stay to under 1/4" stock NOT an issue. For 1/4" stuff I have a dedicated old 10" Craftsman that I have re-worked for the small stuff and ripping down to scale sizes.

Now I would like a Proxon, don’t get me wrong, But this little saw has given me GREAT value for the buck, and the Cheep Basta%d in me just can’t grasp spending 1/4 the price of my Delta cabinet saw on a little tabletop. Especially with the old Craftsman set for little stuff.

#14

I found that by making a zero clearance blade insert for my standard sized table saw, I am able to make very fine cuts. There is no issue with the saw being underpowered as in some of the hobby saws. I don’t own one, so cannot pass judgment on them, but I don’t see the need for one when a standard table saw is available.

#15

Dave,

I like both solutions! Do you have any more info about the fence you milled? Or would be willing to mill one (for a price)? How do you keep the other side of the fence squared up?

#16

Well the reason I brought it up was because my 8" bench top saw bit the bullet and took out a GFI. When I mentioned it to my sister I was asked if I wouldn’t like a hobby saw for my models. She’s happy I join the contests… offered it as a birthday present.

My 10" is a little bit much for trim work.

So I came here and asked around and then sent her a link.

When she says that’s more than I expected! I’ll nod and go back to my original plan and replace the motor, if I can find one with a threaded shaft. It’s a direct drive beastie.

John

#17

I have one of the larger Micromark table saws, an earlier version of this:

I have had lots of success with it - cutting scale lumber up to 1/2" sq and down to 1/16". It cuts aluminum at 1/16" and brass too. I also use it to cut plastic when I am modifying rolling stock.

I added a couple more zero-clearance 'blank blade plates" and a high fence, plus featherboards (hardly use the latter, but the high fence helps with big items. I also have 3 blades - 80-tooth that came with it, 40-tooth carbide tipped for ripping, and a fine tooth (can’t remember how many teeth!)

The ability to attach the vacuum hose is useful when cutting lots of wood (or corks - my last project!) Over all, I think it’s a great tool.

#18

Micro lux on sale

This week Micro Mark is having a power tool sale

#19

Funny you should mention that, just yesterday I cancelled my request. The 10" and bandsaw have done me right so far and as another thread has shown, I have a more important need. Hint; no more raw castings.

John

#20

LOL I get it John,

Every time I think I want a mini saw I find that I can whittle it down pretty good with my 10" and then reswa with the bandsaw to final dimensions.