The siding has been layed out then taped on both sides then lasered then the tape removed from inside then glued and nailed in place, then outside tape removed.
The back of the structure siding has been glued and nailed in place.
Devon I prefer acrylic because it lasers smooter, I use exterior acrylic, designed to with stand sun shine. The UV’s rays.
You say display self, it will look better outside on a layout.
Dennis
lol
Dennis I don’t have an outdoor layout…yet. I am hoping to make that happen soon.
This is the siding to be incerted under the overhang
The aluminum sheeting for the roof has been cut and folded or broke for the ridge
I prefer this material because it will NEVER rot, rust, delaminate, and is flexable and can
be bent and shaped to represent a bower roof or bent corners
Dennis
DANG! that is Beautiful. Love the decking nails
That is coming along great, what a nice looking little building!
Very nicely done.
Industrial 2 sided tape has been placed in strips, I use LEXEL glue in between the strips of tape, The tape will hold for years but the
lexel glue will hold indefinately, and being glued to a substrate that will never fail, this structure will hold up outside for as long as
your Railroad will ever need it too.
Starting to place the steel sheeting (corregated Roofing), the tape holds very tightly as the glue dries.
Dennis
Dennis,
Whats the roofing your using and is it raw steel that can be chemically rusted. Your other buildings have very realistic rusty roofs
Devon
Yes it is steel, it is.003 thick, after I run it through the paper crimper, it is quite stiff. when I run it through, I first clamp the paper clamp
in a vise, then as I run it throgh I run it back and forth, and keep advancing it just a few ribs then run it back, run it forward, then run it
back. I also place my thumb on the top roller in the middle to push down to help prevent roller bowing up in the middle, It still takes
very little time to run a roof of this size.
Nothing rust better than the real thing, Rolls of shim stock, 6’’ wide by 9ft from McMaster Carr runs around 14 dollars.
Muratic acid on the raw steel then hydrogen peroxide, I prefer if you want it to be all rusty, brush on the acid, then spray on the HP. If you want
it streaked, place the stuff on with Q-tips. Give it a couple days and it really gets rusty, then spray with a clear sealer of your choice.
You can also take a dremel with a wire brush and remove rust in streaks to resemble partially rusty roofs.
Thanks for your compliments
Dennis
I just learned about using the paper crimper and was wondering if maybe this is how you were doing it. I also figured you were rusting it with acid. It just has that deep rich look of the real thing. Interesting your using Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), I guess the extra O helps in the oxidation process. I had not heard that before, but makes perfect sense to me.
I look forward to paying you a compliment through mimicking your technique. That’s a polite way of saying I am stealing this idea.
Been making the signs for Mik’s Freight Transfer. I have always thought that signs on a structure add so much life.
The main sign that sets on the roof
Dennis
Those are just fantastic
Hey Dennis
This looks like it was built partially from a kit? Is this something you’ve come up with, or thats available?
Bob
This is a kit, I am in the starting stages of developing a couple kits as a hobby, nothing big time.
So Bob what are your thoughts, My plans are finishing it tomorrow,
Dennis
Im just seeing several copies of the basic building as a good basis for something like a coal patch town.
WOW - Beautiful building and a great kit. If you go into production I’d be interested. It looks fun to build.