Don’t make them look to real, you’ll have Fred sneaking into your shop to try it out…
Ken, I don’t think I have anything to worry about. The good Friar said York was looking iffy, so another 1,000 or so miles and I ain’t worried.
That said a little more progress today, managed to paint 3/4s of the barrels. Still need to do the other end. Also finished the spigots and got them painted silver. I decided to go with a more modern look with a clear acrylic ‘tap handle’.
Once the paint on the spigots drys completely I will ACC the tap handles in place on the taps. I will need to print and install the decals before I can install the taps on the barrels. I also doodled around with the decal layout on the car side this evening.
Those barrels are going to look fantastic! What a great idea, using those old bed wheels.
I, too, very much admire your neat workmanship.
I shall be watching the rest of your build with interest and admiration…
Cheers!
Looking Good Bob, cant wait to see it finished
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Thank you gentlemen, the compliments are appreciated. Gonna be slow for the next few days. Printed decals last night, but need to dry and then seal them (another day or so). I also need to gloss paint the ends of the barrels to accept the decals, then dull seal the whole affair. I am waiting on couplers to arrive from RLD so I am stalled on the car body until they arrive (hopefully today). This will be my first foray into Kadees, so I am sure there will be some learning curve there. So far it has be a fun build, but like others have commented this build has been in the back of my mind for some time, it was great to push it forward.
Well, made some progress this evening. Decided to add buffer blocks to the end beams to add a bit of detail. Simple but effective.
While the glue dried on the buffers blocks, I moved forward and completed adding the handles on the Beer Taps.
Next I mounted the Kadee couplers so the mounting holes will be there after all the paint and decalling is complete. I am considering adding stake pockets if i have time, maybe …
And got the seal coat on the decals and a gloss coat on the ends of the barrels in preparation for decalling in a day or so.
And last for this evening I did manage to get the frame prepared and a first coat of paint on the frame.
Hopefully more progress tomorrow evening. Thanks for following along.
See… there is use for Blue Tape beyond packing. Can’t wait to see it done.
NO pics…more paint…
Again, no pics of the car - managed to get the gloss coat on the side sills in preparation for decalling…I think. I attempted to apply the decals that looked so good on the barrel heads. Results, not to hot.
After doing some digging online, it seems that the decal paper I have chosen, the printer I own, and the fixative spray I used, don’t play well together. I also believe there may be an issue with the paper itself, as it seems to take much too much time from the time I ‘dunk’ it in the luke warm water and the time it finally releases from the backing.
Reading several fora in various moleing genre it seems that there are many others that have experienced the same issues. The decals came off the printer looking good. I allowed two full days for the ink to dry (it took me that long to locate the recommended Krylon clear gloss UV for overspray). Three light coats with approximately 12 hours between each coat and I thought I was good to go. That even had several more days to set up while I was painting the car frame. This evening after weekend guests headed for home, I sat down to do some decalling. What a dissapointment. Unfortunately due to time constraints, I will move forward with the barrels for now. Should time allow before the final bell I will fix them, if not they will be fixed at a later time. Now I can only hope that an additional heavier overspray on the car numbers and markings will help those, if not there may not be any for judging time.
I have never had that issue. Now you have me worried as this is one of my next steps.
Devon, after some think time, I purchased the decal paper from Hobby Lobby and I think maybe the paper may be ‘dated’ stock. I read in several places if the decals are hard to get off the backing it may be due to aged stock. I have added another heavier coat on top to hopefully seal the remainder better. I am also going to leave a ‘handle’ area where I can test the decal without touching the printed area. We will see what happens this evening as I ‘attempt’ to letter the car. If the issues persist, I am seriously considering leaving the decalling off the car for now.
I am going to go to the Papilio site and order their products, all of them. They now have a specific disclaimer on the site stating that the Kryon I used to seal my decals (not Papilio brand) is not compatible with and no longer recommended for their decals. This raises the question in my mind ‘Did Krylon change the formula for the paint?’ Sorry to raise a question for your build, was just ‘airing’ my issues. I guess sometimes taking a short cut, isn’t a short cut.
Sorry to see your hardships Bob. It’s funny when I just recently tried to use Krylon to paint over an Aristo flat, it reacted badly to the factory decals on the flat. I stopped and finished the job with acrylic brushed on. Things are really looking super even with the set backs. Makes me thirsty every time I check in!
Working with what I had, I did another heavier coat of the clear gloss (which after some chatter in the chat room I found out I used the wrong stuff). This has improved the decal performance. I have been able to get the car side decals to play much better.
Couldn’t wait for the Microset to dry to post pics, they are much better. I am still going to try another brand paper though.
And an edit to add the decking applied.
Looks like you’re rolling right along here Bob. Decals do that, but the prototype always does it worse (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Just weather the barrels… After all the more they get used, the better the product that comes out! With the right amount of weathering those few barrels that have messed up “scaled weathering” already applied will look even better. Don’t over do it!
Thanks guys, I appreciate the compliments. Craig, I have a feeling the car will not be ‘complete’ in the sense of some weathering and details I might like to add, but the car will be a complete build. We all know details are endless.
I did finish putting the decals on the car this evening.
And began installing the bands on the barrels. The banding is automotive vinyl pin striping tape. I thought if it would stand up outside on an automobile it ought to stand up on a model. I still have the inner bands to do, but this gives a good idea of the end result.
The striping is very neat and professional appearing. A very nice touch to the barrels of suds.
Tom
Tom,
Why the gloss clear to seal your decals? I use matte clear unless I am purposely making them shiny as in for a gauge with glass. Even when i was doing model cars my decals were sealed with matte clear then the whole model clear coated. Not sure now why I started doing it that way but I have been for 10+ years. I am wondering if some of the issue is the gloss. I don’t know. The ones on the car came out nice so maybe it doesn’t make a difference.
Once everything is dry use a clear matte and it will knock down any left over shine.
Devon,
Yes the gloss is to seal the decals after printing. However what you say makes sense, I will have to give that a try on the next go around. The completed item will be matte finished.
We have barrels! The banding is automotive striping tape, 1/8" wide. I purchased some 1/4" wide, but it looked too wide. There are four nails (seamstress’ pins cut to fit) in each band, four bands per barrel and six barrels. That’s ninety six 0.030" holes drilled in one evening. My fingers hurt from the pin vise.
Weathering if time allows.
Bob, I understand your disappointment with the decals, but I think they are fine. No, they didn’t all come out perfect, but they came out well enough to get the idea across. Particularly if you have time to weather the barrels a litte.
You mentioned how tiring it is to drill all those holes with a pin vise. I have used my 3/8" variable speed drill with tiny bits and it worked fine. Of course, the chuck has to be one that can grip small bits. I suggest you try it sometime.
Congratulations on a fine build.
Bill Ness