Large Scale Central

Mik 2018 - Outside the Box - Jon Radder

The MIK - Annual Build Challenge
#61

Thanks. Looks like it’s u-nany-mouse. 90% it is.

The tunnel has always been called BOX and is so listed on train orders. If I were a class 1 it would be CP BOX. There used to be a sign, but it got vacuumed up when I cleaned before starting this little project. Great idea to letter it directly on the portal.

I have the pictures of dilution tests. I began with a solution that was diluted at 1 part ink to 8 parts alcohol then began adding more alcohol. Dilution ratios below are this solution to alcohol…

Left to right: Natural 1:5 1:3 1:1 1:0

Now some close up comparisons…

1:5 on the left - 1:3 on the right

1:3 on the left - 1:1 on the right. My choice is narrowed down to one of these two.

#62

David Marconi, FOGCH said:

Todd Haskins said:

Alcohol? I prefer Jack Daniels… whacka whacka …

I’ll drink to that but have you tried Larceny ?

(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Larceny?? I know JD is expensive but does it taste any better if I steal it ?? double whacka whacka

I like the 1:1 Jon

I have used ink before but not with alcohol. I might have to give that a try.

#63

The mountain will be named Billy.

#64

Jon Radder said:

The mountain will be named Billy.

Oh Thank God! Now I can get some sleep!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#65

Billy the Mountain. Wasn’t that an old Frank Zappa tune?

#66

How about a comparison to naturally weathered Cedar? This stick has been outside attaining patina for about 3 r 4 years…

Natural underneath, then from Left: 1:3 1:1 and 0:1 dilutions of my 1:8 pre-mix. I’m still liking 1:3 and 1:1. Maybe I’ll mix it up and use the 1:3 inside and 1:1 outside. Had more bad ideas last night while considering stain; might add some buttresses on the right side.

@Joe - Yes. And Ethel was a tree growing out of his shoulder.

#67

1:1 is definite on my screen (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#68

Fantastic build article. Always enjoy the detail you go in to the description. Thanks for sharing.

Might I suggest signage of “close clearance”, date of construction, memorial to those that lost their life during the build and of course the protection tell tales hanging down before entering the tunnel. I forget what they call those chains hanging down. I’m sure some old jewelry can be found to use for the tell tails.

Thanks for sharing.

#69

The 1:1 to my eye looks like the pieces underneath. 1:3 looks good also. the other is way to dark for my liking.

#70

OK - Looks like we all agree on the color. I’ll shoot it with 1:1 and see how it looks.

Definitely needs a close clearance sign. A tell-tale is a great idea and can serve two purposes; show the overhead clearance, and by locating it the correct distance from the opening, can show the conductor how much train will fit in the dead-end tunnel. Last night I made those measurements; just happens to be 39 inches from the portal edge to track end. A good place to store a locomotive out of the dust.

#71

Jon, you said - 'A good place to store a locomotive out of the dust."

Is “out of the dust” to be interpreted as “natural weathering”?

Ken has this down to a science. You might want to rotate your engines in the tunnel, so they all have equal protection.

Great idea, using an 'unnoticeable" hidden measurement system.

#72

Ric Golding said:

Jon, you said - 'A good place to store a locomotive out of the dust."

Is “out of the dust” to be interpreted as “natural weathering”?

Ken has this down to a science. You might want to rotate your engines in the tunnel, so they all have equal protection.

Great idea, using an 'unnoticeable" hidden measurement system.

Thanks Ric. Since mine is an operating museum line, engines & stock are kept clean. Dust is inevitable, but I have some soft paint brushes to deal with that. What won’t brush away is my natural weathering. What I need though, is a way to explain spider poo weathering. Now that I am leaving cars at industries that are underneath an open joist ceiling with lots of 6 legged residents I do get my share of flat white dots in top of cars. I haven’t tried washing them off yet for fear any solvents or detergents might attack the paint and make it worse.

Also - I lied about being done with saws, pins & glue. I made one more addition which will be revealed when the final entry photos are posted. I don’t want to give away any more trade secrets until entries are closed (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

#73

I look forward to seeing your “surprise” feature and seeing your explanation of how you did it! If you lived on the desert you wouldn’t have any trouble with “spider poo.” Since I started with the indoor switching layout I haven’t seen a single spider!

Keep up the good work!

#74

One more color test before I mix up a quart of this stuff and start spraying with an HVLP spray system. I decided since the best match was a toss-up between 1:1 and 1:3 I should try 1:2. I kind of screwed up when setting this up, but I’m too lazy to re-shoot them. I’ll explain below the picture. Natural Light…

OK, The screw up is that the Top Row is 1:1 1:2 and 1:3 while the bottom row is 1:3 1:2 1:1 - In both rows the new 1:2 mix is in the center.

And here is the same setup in electric light…

Same error - top row 1:1 1:2 and 1:3 while bottom row is 1:3 1:2 then 1:1.

I think I ruled out 1:3 for certain, but still a toss-up between 1:1 and 1:2 - Am I getting too picky?

Last night after the crew retired for the night a rail fan sneaked on to the property and took these photos which I found posted on Facebook…

That first one looked a little dark to me, so I doctored it up a bit…

#75

yes, you are getting too picky…

a squirt of this, some squirts of that (“that” being the alcohol) make it good and wet. then take a look, if it needs another aplication. repeat, until it is too dark.

#76

korm said; “Too dark”

Too funny, if it weren’t true…

#77

Decided to mix up the 1:2 version for spray. It’s a really convoluted formula: First split India Ink and Alcohol 50/50. I used a half ounce of each measured out as 12 x .25Tsp because that’s what I had on hand that I could use. Next this one once of mix mix gets further cut with 8 ounces of pure alcohol for a resulting batch of 9 ounces. That gets you to where I was when I started color tests. For my final cut I took that 9 ounces and added 18 ounces of pure alcohol to get my spray dilution.

I have a nice Earlex HVLP Spray system I bought for work. Borrowed it for the weekend to spray my Mik project. It was a beautiful day to spray outdoors. A little gusty, but blowing away from the house and cars. Here is the gun; turbine on the ground in the background…

I should have quit at this point; the shade is about perfect, but there were spots that looked like they had been missed, so I kept spraying. Turns out it was glue protecting the grain…

But I kept on spraying trying to even it out. Ended up quite a bit darker than I wanted, but I don’t hate enough to try and lighten it…

A comparison of what I got Vs the natural color on similar species of wood. The cedar color spots are glue protecting the wood fibers. Directions say to sand it off, but I don’t want a sanded look so I decided to not worry about it. Could always go over it with some paint if it bothers me…

Then I spent the afternoon cleaning up the mess from milling lumber. I photographed and measured my pile for evidence, but I’ll save that for a who’s is bigger thread.

@Doug - Did you spy it?

#78

that looks excellent. hey if you have any more ink mix, give the top a spray from underneath to look like soot. do it a couple times if needed.

#79

I’ve got lots of mix left, but I was going to try the candle soot idea John C. proposed way back.

#80

Jon Radder said:

I’ve got lots of mix left, but I was going to try the candle soot idea John C. proposed way back.

Be sure to use a cheap; dirty burning one, a tallow would be best…

I’ve always brushed the stain on board by board, I think your recessed corners should be near dark instead of near white …

Looking real nice.