I am considering building a McGiffirt Log Loader similar to the one in these pictures, The pictures are from the Collier State Park, Oregon, in the early 70s. I am looking for thoughts about how to create the bends in the heavy steel (about 1") legs of the loader. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Id make those out of different pieces and then assemble them, id first cut four field-hockey shaped feet, out of 3/4 stock, then add the “sides” of the beam using something like .060 styrene.
I like Bob’s idea…it will sure make it easier to add the rivets if that’s where you’re headed. I’d be tempted to make the legs from the foamed PVC stuff as it is pretty easy to work with.
Hi Bill,
I am presently building a couple of tracked arches based on the prototype at Collier. (shown below)
I will probably start a log on them next week, time allowing, and it will show how I approach the problem you are asking about. Briefly, if your building from plastic, what I use is Sintra covered with Styrene.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/rick_marty/collier2013/coll5.jpg)
For a look at this process, if your so inclined, you can wade through this old thread on building the Marion shovel.
here— http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=693.0
Later
Rick
Bill,
After looking at the pics, I would cut the four curved legs out of basswood, (1 piece, “j” shape).
Then clad the sides with styrene. Use thin sheets, so it could be trimmed easily.
Then you can also use thin styrene for the flanges. E6000 glue should hold it.
I would add the curved flanges by building them up, one at a time with really thin styrene so you can bend it easily.
Use pro weld to glue styrene to styrene.
Great suggestions. Rivets will be necessary on the legs, as well as other parts of the loader - just wouldn’t look the same without them. The sintra covered with rivert embossed styrene will make it easy to build the legs and add thre rivets. Thanks everyone
Bill,
I sometimes find it much easier to use two or even three layers of thin Styrene (say .015 or .020) in stead of trying to heat and bend heavier material into place.
It is also far easier to emboss rivets in thinner material if such was your idea. place 1 or 2 layers then your embossed piece. I make the layer pieces a little extra wide so the edges can be sanded/filed to a smooth even finish.
Good luck
Rick
I have used the method John and Rick mentioned with great results. I plan on building a McGiffert loader or two in the future and plan to use this method for the legs. I look forward to following your progress!