Large Scale Central

Mason Bogie

So very true!

Forrest Scott Wood said:

And within 30 minutes after you install Nick’s bell, and only if and when you do install it, the lost one will re-materialize right in plain sight.

Oh, I hate it when that happens. But I am glad to know that I am not the only one it happens to.

new bell

New bell arrived today and has been installed thanks to new friend in NJ, and no I haven’t found the other one yet. Really adds to the look of the top side and only thing left up there is adding a leaver and rod for the sand dome, more to come

bell

Nice work Bill

Thanks Rooster, always nice hearing from you, Bill

sand dome partsAdded a little more detail, put a coat of matt on the bell so it would match the brass domes on the steam and sand dome, also installed a leaver at the base of the sand dome along with an activation rod, think I’m pretty much done with the boiler detail except for the builders plates which I have been experimenting with and so far nothing has worked. Had some brass paper that I tried printing on from an image of a real mason bogie plate which looked good on regular white paper but wasn’t dark enough to show up well on the brass, might use the sticker end of a 38 caliber shell cartridge, just have to see, till then, Bill

She keeps on coming together bit by bit. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
If it were my model, now that the bell has been matte coated, I’d paint the molded-on hanger and pull rope lever black like the rest of the bracket.

Forrest Scott Wood said:

She keeps on coming together bit by bit. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
If it were my model, now that the bell has been matte coated, I’d paint the molded-on hanger and pull rope lever black like the rest of the bracket.

good idea just have to see how steady my hand is today, thanks, Bill

Looks better and better every time you post a picture of it.

Chris Kieffer said:

Looks better and better every time you post a picture of it.

Thanks Chris

Bill Barnwell said:

Forrest Scott Wood said:

She keeps on coming together bit by bit. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
If it were my model, now that the bell has been matte coated, I’d paint the molded-on hanger and pull rope lever black like the rest of the bracket.

good idea just have to see how steady my hand is today, thanks, Bill

After about 32 ounces of coffee, and 5 cigarettes, my hand is rock steady. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)The item I am painting however…it just keeps moving around. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

That’s turning out to be a fine model, Bill.

Dan Hilyer said:

That’s turning out to be a fine model, Bill.

Thanks Dan, it wouldn’t look near as good with out your 6 wheel bogie, many thanks for helping bring a dream alive, Bill

Haven’t painted the bell parts yet but got the sand dome rod blackened and being as I didn’t have a picture of it all together as it is usually all in pieces, I took a shotstarbord side

Bill, Looking good! Can’t wait to see it finished.

Jason

Jason V. said:

Bill, Looking good! Can’t wait to see it finished.

Jason

Thanks Jason, getting close to that point, right now I’m working on builders plates then to battery and control

Well since last post, I was able to decal my builders plate on to brass paper, sealed it with a heat laminated paper and after my steady handed wife cut them out, glued them to the correct location on the smoke box, and at the same time made rope from brass wire strands that I place in a drill and twisted. Wasn’t to happy with the bell rope as I selected too small a wire to twist and didn’t hang right, so I made another using a larger diameter wire and liking the results. Well since last post, I have been researching batteries and types and with the help of several on the forum have selected Lipo, reason being as hobby shops are far and few between in Daytona Beach, Fl. but one that has been around for several years and even thru the down town street redo is High Fly Hobbies. Primarily an R/C plane and car dealer but they have been more than helpful with my small purchases of styrene, brass wire, and paints and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems. Was able to find a battery that along with the Gscalegraphics control board, fits nicely into the tender section of the engine with room left over for their, GSG’s, sound board. Have hooked up the speed control and tested and all I can say is there isn’t any thing much easer, worked great. The only thing left is to complete the wiring of the R/C system, front headlight, smoke unit and want to put a flickering led’s in the fire box, thanks to all with the help and suggestions, more to come, Bill

ropebuildes plate

X

Bill Barnwell said:

… and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems.

That is worthwhile and important thing.

Local dealers are a blessing. We have a similar shop that does the same for me whenever I come in.

Not a lot done but it’s something I have been working on for a while now, numbering the engine. Time spent trying to select a number and how to do it, I settled on year built, which I have done before, and but still having problems on how. I usually use a silhouette machine to do lettering but the vinyl does like irregularities especially rivets. The vinyl is flexible but not to the size of the head if a pin, so I thought about spray painting but need a template that would adhere to the surface including rivets. After some research I settled on stencil paper for my machine. First try was great, not only does the stencil paper stay in place, doesn’t fold over it’s self, but is pretty sticky and weeds well. Still didn’t sit down the best on the rivets but was acceptable to the point that over sprays could be dealt with after the fact with a small brush and back ground paint. But then with a brain storm I thought if the stencil was more flexible maybe it would contour better. 15 minutes in the sun seemed about right and firm pressure with my thumb on the stencil was all it took, only a couple of spots that paint crept under the stencil but not bad. Now it’s not the engine anymore now it’s #“19” Again pleased with the results and now working on hiding the wiring for the engine from front to rear. More to come, Bill number