Large Scale Central

Mars lights and or flashers

Electronics
#1

Hello all;

                 Just wondering, what has everyone been using for cab mounted flashing lights/mars lights?
  I'm refering to the ones on top of the cab, not the ones in the locomotives headlights.



                                                                                                             smaokebox
#2

At this point I don’t have flashing lights on the roof of my locomotives, but I do have one under construction that will. I picked up a flashing LED and a 5v voltage regulator yesterday from Radio Shack. I’m going to see what I can come up with using that.

#3

Warren,
Is the regulator easier to use than resistors?
jb

#4

It appears that it will be. I have not tried yet. 5v regulator which runs on about 7.5v to 25v and using a 5v flashing LED. I don’t see how I could make a mistake.

#5

Hmmmmmm…
I’m interested.
What’s the part #.
I’ll run down to my local “not-so-stocked-with-electronic-parts” Shack and get one.
j

#6

Regulator: 276-1770
Flashing red LED: 276-036

I tried to get an amber one also but he was not willing to order or see if it was available elsewhere. In other words, take what is there or go somewhere else. Really a great store…NOT! This was the one at 5 Mile.

#7

OK, I got a few. How in the hell do you wire it? I’m assuming the power source negative attaches to the tab?

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/jebouck/voltage%20regulator.jpg)

j

#8

The tab is connected to a heat sink. Look inside any Aristo loco. They all have the 5v regulators and they are all screwed to the weights by the tab. It would be safe to assume that their weights and channel chassis they have are grounded.

#9

Since no one posted a wiring diagram for this,
I tried myself and couldn’t get it to work.
So…I used the old reliable resistor and it works just fine.
Easier to install, too.
j

#10

Um John -

YOU posted the wiring diagram :smiley:

It doesn’t get much simpler. C1 and C2 are capacitors that aren’t required for the circuit to work, but cut down on noise and smooth the output. Put your LED between Output and Ground.

#11

Great info guys, thanks

                   smokebox
#12
Jon Radder said:
Um John -

YOU posted the wiring diagram :smiley:

It doesn’t get much simpler. C1 and C2 are capacitors that aren’t required for the circuit to work, but cut down on noise and smooth the output. Put your LED between Output and Ground.


Thank you Jon! I had a hard time keeping my fingers in check for fear of pointing out the obvious! :wink: :slight_smile:

#13

All-right, you two clowns! :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
I tried all the connections on that wiring diagram and nothing worked!!!
I want to see a Hand Made Drawing by Hans on how to hook this thing up!!!
jb

#14

jb, you forgot to hold yer jaw just right! :smiley:

#15

I just ordered a neat set from: http://richmondcontrols.com/ See EZ-08 in the Speciall Effects column. A flashing MARS light and two constant ones for $38, all LED’s. Jerry

#16

In Mid 80’s, BN used to have an amber dome with 4 lightbulbs in it that blinked as if rotating on top of their freight engines. Passenger engines had strobe flashers on top. I’ve haven’t seen anything like that since getting back into trains. Oh, that must be the “Prime Stratalight.”

#17

I have one of those BN flasher beacons, quite a unique light. I also have a couple of strobes of some short line locomotives, while doa, they still add to my collection. The strobes are basicly the same as a construction vehicle strobe, just with a different power supply for the 72VDC locomotive power and extra vibration protection. My Central Railroad GP9 1751 that I am having built for me, will have an operational clear roof top strobe on the rear edge of the cab roof. I will post pics later this fall when I recieve the engine from the custom builder. Mike