Gentlemen, good afternoon. QUESTION has anyone made their own turnouts using already manufactured parts example, take 2 foot straight and say a 10" radius curve and made a turnout out those parts. Of couse you have to make then
Jim Weingart said:
Gentlemen, good afternoon. QUESTION has anyone made their own turnouts using already manufactured parts example, take 2 foot straight and say a 10" radius curve and made a turnout out those parts. Of couse you have to make then point and etc. Also the F.P. & SW R.R. is under recontruction for. Leveling and ballasting. To perimately set the track. For the last 4 yrs i have gone to the garden railroad open house tours, i havent been to impressed by any of them, I have inquired about joining one of the clubs but they insist on having guidelines and rules such as having water features, sound, people, and animal sounds, and grades 2 percent or less requirements, however i saw alot of things that i was told is a. No no. On one layout had a grade of 4 percent. There was automation but the trains stay on the same track, i saw a lot of people taking the time to build up the space with wonderful masonry work, but they just use the gravel all over the place so the track isn’t in its own track bed and. Not ballest. And some looked like they just wrote a check and there it is. They lacked character, realism, natural setting, have no roads for towns or cities. Maybe its just me. I have recently began with the foremost way to build my layout is #1. Keep it as a real railroad would do it. #2 there is no time for Short cuts, #3 have a reason why your track plan Is doing what it is doing Example. Keeping you grades to 1.5 or 2 percebt and stake out strings everywhere. And do it right the first time. Will save you alot of time and. Money. Because after 3 yrs it still looks the same. A friend of. Mine recently ask me about the zero spot of my layout. I REPLIED “what do you mean”? " what are you basing your grades off of?. Thats is why the. F.P. & SW IS UNDER RECONSTRUCTION. Pick out ground zero and go from there stake out strings accross your yard and leave them there until you are tried of tripping on them and level everything.
Jim,
That’s a long discourse after a short question. I can’t really comment on most of it, except that I never heard of a Club that had guidelines about what kind of RR you could build!! As you noted, some folk do what they want and it works out fine.
To your QUESTION - many moons ago I made switches from a curve and a straight for my OO/HO railroad, as I was at school and didn’t have any money. I could do the same now, but it isn’t a very good option. It’s difficult to insert long ties under the frog, and without them it gets a bit floppy. Once you start inserting ties, you might as well insert lots of them. In gauge-1 (45mm) it is really easy to make your own switches that look very prototypical. Photo attached is a switch I was making and photographed for an article.
Llagas Creek makes cast nickel-silver frogs and point blades that are very realistic, and that takes the difficult bits out of the equation.
Several folks have scratch-built switches (turnouts, points). Devon is even playing with making stub switches. So when you get to that point, you can search the forums, and/or ask questions in a post and I am sure you will get more help then you imagined.
Yes, if you are measuring up of down, for grade, a staring point, or zero point, is very useful.
As for what others have, and have built, as long as they are happy, that what counts. I agree that I have seen several set ups I would not want. Unfortunately the railroad I want isn’t exactly what I have. I want more buildings, but I just don’t seam to find the time to make them. I also want more equipment bashed and lettered for my railroad, and all of that will come in time. Maybe that is partly where those other railroads were. A work in progress. So build toward your vision, but realize that it takes time.
Pete Thornton said:
…I can’t really comment on most of it, except that I never heard of a Club that had guidelines about what kind of RR you could build!! As you noted, some folk do what they want and it works out fine.
I have heard of that before. The idea is make it so that other club members can come over and play on your railroad. Rules like “no tunnels”, “minimum curve diameter/radius”, “maximum grade”, “standard couplers”, and so forth. Since I don’t like being told how to enjoy my hobby, I would not join a club with such restrictions.
Sorry about that. I use. My phone to post stuff and dont know how that all got there, i’ll to delete
I can understand a zero spot for each grade, but not as a a starting point for all.
My grades are all measured individually and an electronic level makes it simple. Modeling the 1900s branch lines, mean my tracks tend to rise and fall with the terrain, therefor there are dips along the line and they can’t relate to a center spot or beginning. Put the level on a flat car and watch the grade change as you roll it along…
Once you add a curve, won’t you need to add it’s circumference to your linear numbers and a string from point A is no longer is accurate… Don’t trip! Say you plot 2 tangents and extend them out until they meet and you place a curve to mate them, the curve track will be steeper than the strings, where the big boys tend to flatten the grade, your strings can do the opposite. A curve adds drag, lowering the climb eased the drag to keep a constant resistance up the hill and around the bend.
Modeling a purpose fits some folks but not all. Just like the layouts you don’t like, some folks operate for the enjoyment of seeing trans run and nothing more… even keeping the same train on the same track 24/7!
Several years ago I elevated half my layout because of a steepish slope, I wish I had elevated all of it. Now when I want to run I need to dig out the tracks where weather and critters have buried it. I’ve now begun to complete the job so I can Play Trains on a whim.
Oh if somebody needs a water feature on my pike, they are welcome to operate during a monsoon, otherwise I model the dry washes we have here.
Curved switches are for sectional track, so you can add a switch into a circle, prototype switches are angles defined by numbers, not radii. A number 6 means there are 6 units of length for every unit of deflection, thus 6 ahead and one unit to the side determines the angle. A 4 gets that unit of deflection in just 4 lengths.
My hobby education told me sectional track was for toy trains and numbered switches and flex track with easement curves was more prototypical. When I modeled in On3, I went for prototypical only.
When I bought my G starter set I laughed at the tiny circle of yellow track, the next day I was back at the store buying up track. Unfortunately there was no flex and/or bender for sale and I got stuck using Aristo SS. Now I try to make it realistic, but every time a loco lurches into a corner my inner perfectionist cringes while my outer kid is happy it made it! Closing my eyes I hear my 60 year old Lionel Pennsy Turbine charging into her curves and I’m young again… works for me.
I hope you find ‘what works for you’.
John
My zero point is actually a point near the top of the summit. Its a concrete bridge abutment (paver stone) and I reference from there. Last spring, I lowered the railroad, since the paver had been slowly climbing out of its hole over the years. This brought the railroad back to something close to its original level. That had the added benefit of bringing the railroad back down to a level close to the abandon S curve near the summit. So I plan on cutting in a switch and using the abandon track as a spur for my, Jessie’s, oil well.
I too prefer flex track, but my easements aren’t as pronounced as they could be. For setting the grade, I use a 2 foot level with a step block. This actually works to slightly lessen the grade in my curves. And since my railroad is mostly curves, then I only know that my step block is set to 2.58% grade, due to the topography I had to work with. My actual grade varies because of the curves.
Jim Weingart said:
Sorry about that. I use. My phone to post stuff and dont know how that all got there, i’ll to delete
Jim,
Not a problem. We understood the post.
Seems that this thread has bifurcated!
Well on the first branch, the question was “has anyone made their own turnouts using already manufactured parts example, take 2 foot straight and say a 10” radius curve and made a turnout out those parts."
Well, making a turnout takes a bit of work, and I would not have referred to a piece of straight track and a piece of curved track as “already manufactured parts”, in consideration of the overall work required.
The frog seems to be the most difficult with getting the right geometry, and dimensions, wing rails, etc. Then the points, and determining how the points fit to the stock rails.
One way is to buy a template/jig to make a switch. You might look into FastTracks http://www.handlaidtrack.com/ where you can get printed templates and also jigs to hold rail in position for cutting, soldering, assembly.
I have used these in Z scale and have #8 switches on my main line.
Greg
It seemed to me that the question of track-bashing had been answered.
However as the OP went further I felt it was ok to follow.
I opined on the appropriateness of radii switches with doing it the way railroads did. Well such was the intention. Excuse if I failed to ‘splain’ it goodlynuf.
Be Blessed.
John
When I built my layout in Texas 15 years ago I used some LGB but mostly Aristo Wide Radius turnouts. After retiring we relocated to Tennessee and am hoping to rebuild and enlarge my layout here. I will be making both a left and right hand turnout jig to space my ties and since I use battery power instead of track power I plan to make my own frogs using auto body bondo that will be shaped using my dremel tool. I purchased 60 feet of code 250 aluminum rail from Sunset Valley and plan to cut my own ties from cedar wood or maybe HDPE plastic stock.
Ron, my first large scale switch I used bondo for the frog. It started breaking apart in a year or two. When I rebuilt it, I used JB Quick, and it lasted over 5 years. The frog is still good, even though I took the switch out of service. I made it a bit too sharp for some of my eqipment.
John, the word bifurcation has no negative connotation, and I expressed no pain in it happening.
I just wanted to indicate I was following one of the 2 topics it had, i.e. still answering things the OP had asked.
I also understand that the OP had (unintentionally at first) added to the questions/topics the (very strange) “rules” a local club had on members.
So, no negative comment on anything you posted, bifurcation is OK!
Greg
Jim,
I will throw in my .02 but I am not sure its worth that much. I am building my first turnout and I am learning a few things. Directly to your question the only advantage I can see to your proposed method would be that by using pre-made track you would have pre-bent track. As mentioned the ties would be a hindrance, not even sure how you make that work. If your only building one then this maybe the way to go. Otherwise the investment in a single rail bender and new rail stock I would think would be better cost wise.
Now turnout design. Listen to these guys when they are telling you about the benefits of prototype verses toy type turnouts. First a definition or explanation in case you have no idea what they are talking about. A prototype turnout, on the curved diverging track, only curves to the frog. At the frog it then exits the turnout in a straight tangent line. This is a scientific formula that I will let others explain. A toy turnout is curved throughout. I am building a toy turnout for the indoor because of tight turns. But there are inherent problems with turning a curve through the frog. These have to be overcome with compromises. If you can build prototypical turnouts then do so.
Now that I have seen the problems I can say you will likely be happier if you do.
Devon Sinsley said:
Jim,
. . .
Now turnout design. Listen to these guys when they are telling you about the benefits of prototype verses toy type turnouts. First a definition or explanation in case you have no idea what they are talking about. A prototype turnout, on the curved diverging track, only curves to the frog. At the frog it then exits the turnout in a straight tangent line. This is a scientific formula that I will let others explain. A toy turnout is curved throughout… . .
Devon,
If I may offer a tiny correction re: “curves to the frog” and “exits straight”. I suppose the latter is technically accurate, but implies the curve doesn’t start again for a while?
What is actually required is that the curved rails are straight through the frog area - a few feet before and after they are straight until they are through the frog. You can see why - easier on the wheels if they are coping with check rails and frogs in a straight line.
Thanks for clarifying Pete. That is why I deferred to others. I knew for sure that I wasn’t sure. And I definitely see why it needs to be straight “through” the frog. I am fighting that now.
Devon, you do know that physics usually wins. Right?
Science laws and stinking badges … who needs 'em?
Devon now is the time to establish back to back wheel standards for your guard rails. With a curved amphibian you’ll need the guidance on the other side…
John
Let’s not hijack this thread to hash out my issues. I appreciate the help as always but we can take it to my thread.
Let’s not hijack this thread to hash out my issues. I appreciate the help as always but we can take it to my thread.