Large Scale Central

making some modifications to Big Hauler train set track

Track and Trestles
#1

Hey Y’all;
Been making some modifications to Big Hauler train set track - something to which a slight misquote of Hamlet may be applicable, “Though this be method, there is yet madness to it.”

Making some feeder connections from wiring and plugs stripped from Christmas light reels purchased for stripping the LED from. They do make an observable difference on the large loop.

And …

Trying my luck at creating track sections with insulating gaps. Am doing 2 straights and 2 curves.
Reinforced stringers under rails toward one end of piece. Sawed through both rails. Inserted sheet plastic to fill gap. Am adding imitation fishplates to outside of rail to help stabilize it.

Second step is to add headblocks from ties either side of block by cutting out one end of tie each side of gap, adding 6 inch piece of 1/4 by 1/4 basswood, then coming up with some way to mount an appropriately sized double pole, single throw, toggle switch where on a turnout the switchstand would be.

For now, the feeder wires provide power, plug it in for power, unplug to cut power. Kind of a what I’d call a trailer park redneck tech level method, but hey, it works for now Grin

My track is currently at our model train club set up on floor under HO modular layout’s yards. Track is classic oval with cutoff at one end. What I want to do is be able to park a train on either inner our outer track, shut off that track; then turn on other track, and run other train, rinse and repeat as desired.

Theoretically, this will get you to a 10 picture album of the project, and my hairy little “helper”, who knew model trains were a spectator sport, on Flickr https://flic.kr/s/aHsktynbLL

#2

Looks good. Adding extra power points along the main is never a bad idea and your method is clean looking.

On my outdoor RR I have many sidings that I have insulated with plastic joiners at one end and the other a insulated rail clamp. On this one I run a wire from one side to a nearby “switch shack” where a regular household light switch is mounted on one wall. The wire goes through this switch and back out to the other side of the insulated track clamp. The switches are cheap about $1, are easy to see if the juice is on that track and in a pinch you can flip it on off with your foot.

I had my Christmas train setup like this too so I could park a train while another ran. It is simple.

I almost forgot to add that you only need to isolate one rail. It doesn’t matter which one.

#3

Hey there :slight_smile: Added a few more photos, closeups of the rail ends and joining details.

Idea for insulating both rails was that since insulated rail joiners for this track do not exist, as far as I have found, and it is the rails themselves which are cut, cutting both rails makes it not matter which piece of track is oriented which way where.

If only one rail were cut it would be possible to on a passing siding have only one rail insulated at the near end; the other rail only at the far end, meaning each rail is always live via its other end, have failed to notice that, and have to go back and turn one section around after wondering for several minutes why it isn’t working.

I’ve done that on HO track with insulated joiners, so decided to see if this system could be made goof proof against myself (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Hope is that a toggle of decent largeness and easy throw can possibly be set by toe.
Eventually will try to noodle out how to do so with the train set turnouts, which are different in the throwbar from the new brass rail ones.