Large Scale Central

Made a loco part, Don't know its name, will have to look it up

Hey Y’all;

Finally got around to it and made a locomotive part, one I’ve been meaning to make for about 8 years.
Don’t know its name, will have to look it up, there are at least 4 different books here which will say.
But it can be made without knowing its name.

And my body is being difficult to get along with and my hands are hurting and inflamed, and the less I look up stuff, and the less I type on here!!! :smiley: the more modeling I can do.

So, with that being the case, I am quite pleased with the success on this tonight. :slight_smile:

Are several reasons for making the part, a brace for the crosshead guides.

Primary reason is durability, a couple of crosshead guides have gotten broken in the course of handling and running.
I see the primary reason for that to be absence of an important detail part of the real deal.

Q: Dimensions of part?
A: The ones which fit.

I used a cardstock scrap to make a template sized to fit.

Did look at a number of photos and drawings of appropriate vintage 4-6-0s.
Decided to go with style which has valve rod going to arm link to between-the-wheels Stephenson gear located forward of the crosshead guide brace.
And has the brace located not quite at aft end of guides.

That way the whole trial and error process, or the just as frequent error and trial process, of locating a pass-through hole in the brace is avoided.

Brace is glued to chassis but will not be secured to crosshead guides, that is to allow disassembly for repair and servicing

Locomotive is a Bachmann Big Hauler from their “Silverado” V&T set a decade back.
Yes, this wee beastie has waited a full decade for me to add this detail.
It is sloooooooooooooowly being repainted and redetailed.

Have 3 other Big Haulers and a SPC Annie, so, going to need to make a total of 10 of these.
Will need to be a bit different style pair for bumblebee Durango & Silverton one which has Walschaerts valve gear.

Nice addition. That’s one of those details often overlooked as just seeming to be there. Looks like it came with the loco. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

How about cross head support bracket?

Doc

Well done Don…you nailed it. That bracket is a long needed part that will prevent the damage of the plastic cross-head guides on the B’mann Big Haulers…a rather weak point on those locomotives.

That bracket could also act as a mount for a “Representative” rod to simulate the non represented Stephenson Link valve gear.

Fred mills

Well done, Forrest…long overdue part…

Fred Mills

Thanks y’all! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

Had thought about using long configuration of valve rod, like this http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/co377s.jpg and this, http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/wm90s.jpg

But with long distance between lead driver and the cylinders decided to do different and use short valve rod.

Like on here, http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr863.jpg and here, although this one has different style crosshead guide, https://c8a75f68-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/steamlocomotivephotographs/lo-m/IMG_0010-016.jpg

Ah, here’s one with an alligator crosshead, & it has style of brace I’m following, https://c8a75f68-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/steamlocomotivephotographs/ac/IMG_0005-002.jpg

Another good view, https://c8a75f68-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/steamlocomotivephotographs/g/IMG_0003-018.jpg

–> Oh, and before installing bracket I Did drill holes for attaching valve rod at proper location to cylinder assembly. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

PRR loco has sat untouched for several years at back of shelf. Probably since just after drilling the valve rod holes in it.

But it will model my process for drilling those in-place.

Location was marked with point from one end of a navigation dividers that my Dad used when flying – in the 1960s!
Its 2 halves are a very useful modeling tool for scribing, marking, piercing. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Drilling was actually straighter than posed after-the-fact photo leads one to believe.

Also serves as model to illustrate WHY the crosshead guide braces are necessary.

And it needs a new pilot truck. Have a couple ideas for making an articulated style, which will remove damaging stresses from the pivot point.

Are a couple replacement Bachmann trucks on hand, from long enough ago that they came from Barry’s Big Trains!

I don’t remember if I had ordered his swinging truck mount, but do know where the box of Big Hauler parts is to look in and see.

Yeah, something has to be done about that!

Oh, and while talking Big Hauler improvements, something which dramatically improves their overall appearance,

as well as providing a location for the fireman who is patiently waiting to be finished,

And, yes, they do take the Bachmann train set track curves;

Just ordered enough of https://ozarkminiatures.com/collections/g-scale-details/products/condensate-drain-cock-6 to take care of the group.

Might as well get that project going while working at the front end of the locomotives.

Also got a few other odds and ends.

Between having several interests and messy health, things will sit a while between rounds of progress.

Since it has taken a decade to get this far I wonder how long it will take me to get around to the air tank and pump piping?
Another decade? (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Progress update: now working on PRR loco.

Tamiya cement of the flavor in the orange capped bottle did a grand job of gluing broken crosshead guide.

There is my template for the hinged decks.

As was the crosshead guide brace template, it was marked and sized to fit, not to pre-figured numbers.
Radius of tender edge was determined by I forget what, other than working on train set track curves;

could have been traced around anything from masking tape roll to cat food saucer.

Figured gluing both braces to L at same time saved time, they will be sawn loose and get other side glued here in a moment.

Oh, and since crosshead guide was already broken on PRR loco, this time the .030 sheet styrene was thickened by laminating to an .020 layer.

This time the braces are getting painted before installation.

Still have the can of spray paint from several years back, wonder if it is good? Since this upper floor apartment doesn’t have a garage or shed it has been kept in kitchen pantry.

Am still pondering screw mounting the braces. Might do that here, again, since one guide was already broken. Removing brace if loco needed fuller dismantling would help reduce stresses on mended guide.
Tack brace to upper chassis with glue then drill for screws.

(https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Maybe it is purely showing off, here’s out of box appearance of PRR loco compared to my repaint of it.
Chipping the white off driver rims was an adventure.

(Bachmann train set rails are not actually rusty, I painted them)

Another good part, for the Annie/Anniversary/B’mann 10 wheeler…well done, Scott.

For anyone following this thread who would like the “Deck Plate” part, but doesn’t have the skills or time to make one;

GLX Scale Models has them…they are contributors to this Web Page. www.glxscalemodels.com They come with a slip-proof tread pattern, and can quite easily be “Glued” on, after rerouting the electrical connections to keep them under the Deck Plate.

Fred Mills

Scott;

Another easy modification for theses locomotives is the body mounting of the “Loop” coupler on the locomotive end of the tender. You can also move it back about 1/4 inch, to give closer coupling, and still manage to run on 4’ RADIUS curves. This allows for a shorter deck plate. The only other thing that is needed, is to move the brake wheel on the tender, back a tad to allow for the swing of the deck plate.

Fred Mills

Fred Mills. said:

Another easy modification for theses locomotives is the body mounting of the “Loop” coupler on the locomotive end of the tender. You can also move it back about 1/4 inch, to give closer coupling, and still manage to run on 4’ RADIUS curves.

Ah, don’t remember if I ever thought about that or not.

On my locos the plate is made out of Plastruct diamond plate, in a package for a scale rather smaller than G, after all, real life diamond plate diamonds are smaller than an adult’s thumb, laminated to one layer of sheet styrene of I forget what thickness, probably .030 or .040.

V&T loco may be plain sheet instead of diamond plate.

They are hinged by rod passing through 2 eye screws on back of frame/cab. Rod is removable to remove plate.

Wiring to tender will pass through small gap.

–> Now, there is some question as to proper height of that plate at back of cab.

But then, there can also be a question of proper height of firedoor detail compared to where Bachmann placed it.

As with other details, I went with where plates attached to locomotive frame in period photos and in modern drawings of those locos.

Broadside view of NYC 2030 at top of this page is illustrative of the placement, https://sites.google.com/site/bostonalbanyrailroad/home/0-6-0/0-8-0/2-8-0/2-8-2/2-8-4/4-4-0/4-6-0

(also illustrative of longer valve rod, which I decided was too great of a a breakage risk)

And here are some more images of how I did the thing,

More progress details.

That one photo brings to mind some kind of corporate logo!
For some unknown reason I feel strongly compelled to make the PRR loco’s parts a bit beefier than the V&T loco’s parts, via laminating layers of sheet.

And to use the screw mounting instead of glue mounting.

And to add a few more bits before installing.

And to paint before installing.

Given the location of the parts plus their size and my method of construction the parts are handed to match boiler taper.

Figured an easy way to tell which side is which when parts were off model was to use odd number of screws, 2 forward 1 aft.

Flanges are marked and pilot holes drilled, with bit in pin vise – this literally is a kitchen table project.

Got 4 small L braces made and attached for one side. Photos seen show them in varying quantities and locations from 1 to 4 depending on several factors from shape of overall brace to I don’t know what.

Even though this is G and not N scale, problems with my hands have made the thing a challenge today.

Decided to go with 4. Note that crosshead guide will be free-floating in the brace.

1 can be discerned at top rear here, http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo1357sa.jpg

Not yet decided how much bolt/rivet detail will be added, but am CERTAIN not this much, http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo1316s.jpg

But am pondering adding the lubricant cups to top crosshead guide as on this one, http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo1300s.jpg

Well, while I’m not sleeping at night because of sleeping a lot during the day because of my body protesting activity Tuesday, how about trying some rivet detail.

One of those was enough!
And these little bitty bits have a high loss rate during installation.

Checked mail while on way to laundromat - train parts in mail! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Some for these locos even.

Will be interesting to see how close pilot holes in cylinder underside are to posts on drain cocks - those holes were drilled in 3 of the 5 engines several years ago.

Now it’s heading the direction I want to go :slight_smile:

And it dawned on me yesterday that I don’t know whether the control rod between them is typically inboard of or outboard of the things.

Books of drawings and photos didn’t help my brain clear that up.

(and those probably aren’t exactly the correct kind of drain cock but they are good enough and are priced right for this project, considering I need 24 of them, 4 each for 6 locos,

for 4 Big Haulers, 1 SPC Annie, and a Hartland 4-4-0)

Forrest, On a detail shot I took of the loco “York” here in New Freedom the rod between the drain cocks is on the outside.

David Marconi,FOGCH said:

Forrest, On a detail shot I took of the loco “York” here in New Freedom the rod between the drain cocks is on the outside.

Good morning, and thank you!