Large Scale Central

Lubing a USA FA-1

Problem Solving
#21

Kyle, I did notice the wheels seem a little bit wobbly but not too bad. I will try and check gauge and adjust any that seem too far out of true and see if that makes any improvement. The gears all seem okay with no visible cracks.

I noticed that even laying on it’s back in my foam ‘cradle’ that this rhythmic wa-wa at low current is present with no resistance to the wheels. I took the cover off of one motorblock at a time which left only the rear gearbox in place, the one that runs off of the U joint and applied power and it still seems like the rhythm sound is still there but less pronounced. Then I’d place the cover and front axle back on the block without screwing it together and re-energize and it would be slightly more noticeable each time I went from running one motorblock, to running one and a half motorblocks to running both assembled blocks. It’s almost like there’s a flat spot or something in one or both of the electric motors [?] sure is puzzling and I just can’t track it down.

This is why I’m considering searching for some new [or newer] ART29351 replacement motorblocks and modifying this early FA-1. For the price of two new motorblocks though it may also be just as easy/cheap to search out a bargain FA-1 in any paint scheme that is running well and swap the old body on to a newer frame. No rush on this project so I have time to consider different solutions. Thanks for the tips on adjusting the wheels.

#22

Your in luck!

http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/23382/aristo-craft-items

#23

So for $130 you can buy new trucks for your old engine.

For $200 you can buy a new engine with all the upgrades and swap shells. (Trainworld, San val, etc…)

For $100-150 you can try to find a used yellow box engine that has the newer style trucks (risk: possibly not lowered, may have traction tires).

Or for the same $100-150 you can really haunt eBay until you find another matching WM FA-1. Next, scrap the bad motor block saving the wheels. Run two engines with three power trucks and one free-rolling.

#24

That pretty much is the way I see the math too. Getting the original motor blocks to run smoothly with tinkering and lubrication was obviously the first and most desirable choice but hasn’t worked out quite so well.

That said, I am leaning towards buying the new trucks for the old engine but swapping shells from a new engine seems like it might be the easiest solution but the worst $$ scenario.

#25

The nice thing about buying new trucks from ovgrs is you get to keep your old side frames as spares. Occasionally you may snap a brake fixture off the sideframe, or lose a spring. This way you have plenty of spare parts…and you could even sell the old motorblocks for parts value on eBay “as-is” to recoup some of your costs. The entire old truck assembly with motor block, a-frame, and side frame would be attractive to 3D print modelers, but I would just sell the motor blocks separately.

#26

Yes. I’m currently talking to Tim about buying a set of his power trucks. He makes the point that to swap and rewire the trucks would take about as much skill and maybe even less effort than rewiring the smoke unit, fans, lights and other parts that would need to be done to make the swap. I’m not sure if the newer blocks would lower the loco either but if not it’s not the end of the world. Most important to me is smooth slow speed running as I do not run my trains at unrealistic speeds.

Tim said there is a link on OVGRS that shows how to do a block swap and test the polarity etc. necessary. I will look that up later and I may pull the trigger on two new blocks and be done with it.

S

#27

Scott W. said: I may pull the trigger on two new blocks and be done with it.

That might just be the right thing to do…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#28

At the ECLSTS in 2 weeks someone could check the Nicholas Smith booth as Chris brings in a lot of old Aristo engines and parts.

#29

Okay, thanks for the tips and the link to Tim McCabe with OVGRS everyone.

Since this WM loco is in such pretty shape and I grew up along the WM line and got a good price on the loco I figure “In for a penny, in for a pound”. I ordered two replacement motor blocks and frames for 65 bucks a piece and will be checking the OVGRS website for info as Tim said one of the members posted a detailed ‘how-to’ on swapping the motor blocks and frames out.

I appreciate all the good advice.

Scott

#30

Fairly easy swap on the trucks. Later RJD

#31

Yes, thanks R.J. Paul Norton sent me very detailed instructions with photos from when he swapped trucks on an old FA-1. Looks pretty straightforward. Thanks again.

#32

Steve, in many postings above, noted MOBIL 1 as an oil and grease option.

Not to get that suggestion lost, I absolutely recommend both the Mobil 1 synthetic motor oils – your choice of grade – and the Mobil 1 bearing and general purpose grease – in the round tin. The model RR 1 oz products are synthetic oils in their tiny boutique squeeze containers. Synthetic universally means no harm to our loco’s plastics.

When lubing the 30 locos at the Living Desert, Palm Desert, CA., there was an initial uproar. These locos rotate duty propelling 100 car freights on the LD’s gigantic outdoor railroad. Yes, there was initially grinding of teeth and lamentations over use of anything outside of LGB grease and oil (German transmission oil in a tube). I report all recovered, and now the lube costs are nearly zero and trains continue to run well.

#33

I’m intrigued, but not surprised, with the suggestion of using Mobil One products. My 13 year old Miata has never had anything but Mobil 1 in it and I’m a big fan for autos. I have used Aero-Locomotive works gear lube and conducting lube and Labelle plastic compatible gear lube for my model trains both G and N scale and been happy with those products.

Not sure about LGB lube being a ‘reference standard’ as I was just given a LGB 0-4-0 Stainz loco this week by someone who told me it didn’t run. I took the bottom cover off the engine and found this mustard yellow ‘Mucillage’ gunk wrapped up in the gears which I guess at one time was LGB gear lube. It was like glue. Took 70% alc. and an old toothbrush and scrubbed all that s–t out of there, re-lubed it with my gear grease and lubed the valve gearing with my gear oil and Voila’. The little engine runs just fine.

S

#34

I like the Aero-lube products a lot myself… and I’ve also got the mobil 1 greases… good stuff

#35

The thing I hated most about working on other peoples used locomotives was cleaning the side frames and motor blocks. The USAT ones were the worst because of the black grease that would stain my hands, locomotive paint and clothes (permanently).

Over the decades I have used a number of toxic solvents to clean these parts which created a greasy mess. Then I remembered that while working in a paper mill in my early 20s we used light oil to wash the grease from our hands. I now use vegetable oil and an old tooth brush to clean greasy parts. The side frame bushings are cleaned with dollar store cotton swabs. Vegetable oil is non-toxic and easy on the hands when they have to be washed clean. The oily parts are washed in a bucket of hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid. Then they are rinsed in hot water. The hot water not only lifts the oil better, it helps the parts dry faster.

I tried to protect my workbench with newspaper, but it just soaked up the oil and grease and let it past. Now I tape a large plastic bag to the worktop instead.

Although I use grease for the motor block gears, I use plastic compatible oil for the bushings and bearings. I find oil does not pick up as much grit as grease and will not turn to wax over time. Aero-Locomotive Works sell oil in a small plastic squeeze bottles with a long metal tube for reaching behind the wheels to the bushings and axles.