Guys,
I recently purchased two Aristo (Delton Classic) long wood side cabeese.
They sit on their trucks way too high (for me, anyway). Much higher than the USA woodies or LGB’s.
I tried putting a set of Raymond #1 scale wheels–slightly smaller in diameter than the regular “G” wheels. I put them in a set of LGB arch-bar trucks and it lowered the caboose quite a bit. But it was way too rocky on the bolster. So I put the #1 wheels in the supplied Aristo truck. It didn’t lower it much at all.
I even had to put a .190 thick spacer under the KD 830 just to get it down to mate up with all my other stuff. Which is pretty much set to height with a KD height gage.
Any suggestions?
I like the cubbies. One is a DSP&P and the other is a South Pacific Coast (which I’ll use behind my new LGB SP mogul.)
Thanx,
jb
Like their 1:29 stuff, too high.
We used to fix the frames, then they finally came out with lowered frames.
Most of the guys around here just buy the USA ones, which are right.
That said, I don’t have one handy (I’ll fix customer units, but none stay on the property) but if I recall, remove the trucks, and frame, and look at the frame bolster.
If you can remove it from the frame and slice or grind off what you need off the back, and re-install.
All you need to do is get the bolster closer to the floor by the amount you want.
Try to match them to avoid a “rake”.
TOC
Dave,
I was hoping for a “quick fix”, but yeh, I’ll check out all the bolster re-modeling this winter. (When there’s nuttin’ to do but sit and look at snow thru the window 
)
The frame & bolster are all one casting.
jb
I know they are one casting.
You don’t ant to be messing with the truck itself, so if I recall, I cut the frame bolsters from the frame, re-attched the frame (so the bolsters would stiff fit, of course), and whacked the top (flat) side of the bolsters to fit.
Aren’t those the ones with two screws per frame bolster?
If so, you have to shorten the boss, and either use shorter screws or just drill all the way through and use existing.
It only takes 20 minutes or so to do, just keep the cut level and equal.
TOC
For those of you unfamiliar with the two cabeese: USA cubby
Aristo cubby
The two together. Notice how high the Aristo rides on it’s trucks.
It appears that Aristo changed the bolsters somehow. The old original Delton didn’t seem to me to be that high. The modified caboose in the photo below is an original Delton and hasn’t been lowered at all although it has Accucraft 1:24 trucks. Its height seems about right to my eye. Does it seem high to you in the photo or is my perspective off?
Is the USA version still available? It looks very close to the same size in your photos. The sidewalls appear to be shorter on the Aristo and that may be why it seems so much higher. Perhaps the answer is to push the entire underframe further up into the body rather than merely modify the bolsters.
True, but last time I looked, I thought the floor and walls were one solid casting.
A WHOLE lot easier to drop the bolster.
TOC
On retrospect, I wonder if it might not be better to add some Plastruct 1/4" channel on edge under the wood sides and slightly undented to simulate a steel underframe so the roof height stays the same.
Paint it black…
TOC
Dave. Amoral minds think alike! I was sitting there this morning staring at the cubby trying to get inspiration. I looked at an LGB woody and it shows the frame hanging down below the wood. Bot the Aristo and LGB are the same roof height. I thought, why not just put a piece of styrene there, add some nuts and bolt castings, paint it black and be done with it. Walla! (or Viola or whatever.) Nobody would be none the wiser. No rivet counters here! Good idea, Dave! Here’s the LGB sitting next to the Aristo.
<Is the USA version still available?>
Richard,
If you mean the USA D&RGW, yes it is still available. So is the Aristo.
I love wood side cabeeses. I have 21 different ones, but who’s counting.
But is was just last week I added the Aristo to the flock and noticed how high they sit.
jb
Well, I took the TOC’s advise and fabbed up a frame extender. Here’s the prototype. These are a before on the right with my modification on the left. Whuddayuh all think? jb
Don’t see a problem.
But, for a different look, try some rectangular channel, with the cupped part towards you.
Sure does fix it though, doesn’t it?
Makes one wonder which expert modelers looked at the original and told them it was just right…
Gives the entire car a beefier look.
Got a full shot?
It looks a bit more rugged and fit for the job , John .
Mike
<Got a full shot?>
Before
After
Expert Modelers looked at at and tell us it’s just right!
You’d best patent that…
Looks good, far better than stock!
TOC
Very nice solution, and it looks great. I lowered the tender on my Connie, but I actually lowered it. I cut off the existing bolster, cut off about 1/4", and glued it back on. Before:
After:
John,
That really works well. I like it.
Bob,
Great improvement Bob. I didn’t realise the Connie’s tender sat that high.