Large Scale Central

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Track and Trestles
#21

USAT doesn’t make any narrow gauge western style locomotives. For them you want to look at their American series cars and wood side caboose. In 1:22 scale stick mostly to LGB for locomotives. But don’t pass over the Bachmann Annie (4-6-0) as you can get those for $125.00 and well worth the money. LGB’s Forney would be a great starting place. There are several varieties available currently: Wild West, as you mentioned, CS and D&RGW. Each is outfitted a little different. You should be able to get any one of the 3 versions for under $300. As Terry stated, the Mogul is a good choice for a locomotive too. There are about as many versions available as the mind can think up. It’s a workhorse and a very nice locomotive to look at…and just begs to be customized to meet your wildest dreams. :slight_smile:

One thing to note about LGB…the prices of different versions of the same locomotive can be hundreds of dollars different in price. As far as reliability they would all be equal. Where the differences show up is in sound, MTS (RC), and Road name. You can easily pay $200 extra for a paint job. :frowning: Don’t pay the extra for having the MTS board unless you are planning to run your layout with their rather pricy system. There was a while that all their locomotives had the MTS board installed. But they have finally realized that US customers want a basic locomotive that they can customize their own way. So now most come with no MTS or sound. These locomotives run in the $300-600 bracket. With all the bells and whistles they jump to over $1000.

Have fun! That’s the key…:slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

#22

Welcome aboard.
When I started I went with LGB but if I were to do it again I would go with 1-20,3 especially sibe I too am building a mining railroad. But, oh well.
I was at a workshop for our club on Saturday and we had a prospective member who was also confused about all the sizes. So you are not alone by far.
If we can just find some plants for the layout! We are in Zone 5 but can get down to 0. Combining that with the desert poses many challenges! On the other hand there aren’t very many plants in the desert!
Don’t let confusion slow your railroad building. Take your time and enjoy it!

#23

Note that the Sam’s Club sets made by Bachmann represent fantastic value for money! Many contain the Bachmann ‘Annie’ version of their ten-wheeler - this one has all-metal valve gear, and as TOC will tell you, the 5th generation motor and gear train. A real plus is the huge empty tender, just begging for batteries and radio - later perhaps? My White Pass Annie is 8 years old now, and still runs a treat, like it is actually doing right now as I look out the window, with its six J&S cars trundling along behind it.

So economy and value for money go to Bachmann and their Annie sets…lots of freight cars to bash as well - if that is your thing.

Next up is the single offering from Aristocaft - their recently re-worked C-16. VERY nice, AND colourful, as well as in your chosen era.

Higher end stuff - LGB, as long as it supplies last, that is. Perhaps others will comment here - without prejudce, of course. As Warren says, the Forney comes in many different paint-achemes, from Olomana to Disneyland, and are priced accordingly. I have a plain old black version with no lettering on it at all, and it’s a little beauty.

Much higher end are the electric or live-steam of Accucraft in 1/20.3 scale or F scale as it is called. Beautiful stuff, and with the new range of plastic passenger cars coming out from them and from Bachmann in the same scale, added to the EBT cars recently put out by Bachmann, you have a great range of the larger stuff to choose from. See the AMS and Bachmann websites.

The great thing about the larger scales is that you really don’t need a huge consist to look good - I have only five cars in 1/20.3, and haul them around with a K27 - and it looks good to me.

Live steam is something you might think about later on - Accucraft make a two and three-cylinder Shay…short and VERY sweet!

Best wishes

tac in East Anglia
Ottawa Valley GRS

#24

Are you any less confused :smiley:

#25

Let your mind be the judge. Later RJD

#26

Seems like every answer just leads to more questions but I am slightly less confused and having fun. I have a track layout program on order, the wife has been looking at kits to build while we watch the vegatable garden grow, and we have made some decisions. OK, next question, where do I find plans for the ramping down wooden trestle supports I see on so many layouts? I want to come out of my 14’ x 7’ shed at about 12" and ramp down to ground level at about a 1.5 grade. I envision a switch past the grade so I can back a train back up into the shed for storage.

Oh the evil plans we make
Mark

#27

Mark,

Here is one that I think you will find very interesting. It covers Wooden Trestle Construction on the Rio Grande Southern Railroad by Bob Hyman who models in Sn3, but don’t hold that against him. Everything you asked for will be found here, I think. Wander through the rest of his site, too. You won’t be disappointed.

http://members.cox.net/sn3nut/clinics.htm

Steve

#28

New Question. I want to have train pass under a trestle. What is the minimum height a trestle needs to be?

Thank you
Mark Selep

#29
Mark Selep said:
New Question. I want to have train pass under a trestle. What is the minimum height a trestle needs to be?

Thank you
Mark Selep


Depends on what you want to run underneath it (he said helpfully). At least 10 inches from railhead to bottom of trestle structure; 12 inches would be better.

#30
Mark Selep said:
I have been researching for months and am now more confused then ever! I want to put a G scale layout in my backyard, around 60' by 20'. Would like do do an old west style layout, (we live 50 miles west of Fort Worth Texas), would like to go battery power, but, I can't figure out this narrow gauge or standard gauge thing to start with, let alone what radius exetra track I need to order. Does anyone sell a layout program a newbie can use to design and figure out how much track I need?
Mark, Welcome to LSC, I just went through the same delima you are pondering now. I bough a starter set( V&T Bachmann) converted it to RCS R/C provided by TOC, bought some Aristocraft track, bought a computer program (RR Track) used up a yellow legal tablet with track plans, and started on the coolest layout and quit. 2 weeks ago I found another LSRR here where I live and visited his layout, ran my train , he convinced me to throw some track down and run trains and I did. Now I know why I wanted to get into this hobby, was to run trains. I was caught up in the scale thing and couldn't get going in the proper direction, now I have. Before I get flamed on scale RR's, I will have a scale area on mine, however I can run trains while I work on the scale layout as I am still stuck.

To answer your question go get a couple hundred feet of 1/2" PVC pipe and couplers and start laying it out where you think you may want the layout to be, buy it in 10’ lengths then when you are finished running it around the yard, count up the sections and order the track, next delima " which track do I order" it is way easier at this stage for you to go this direction than the puter program, unless you want to be a puter LSRR (PLSRR), I bought the Trail-li rail bender and bent my aristocraft straight track to the radius that I wanted and it worked great they explain how to do it and it works well, My yard is such that I have settled on 1:20.3 so the radius of the turns is not a problem for me. well that’s my 2 cents and I do have a LSRR. Good luck, but most important “Have fun and enjoy the hobby”. I have to give credit to the people here on LSC for the inspiration and guidance With LSC you have people and a network!

#31

John,

Would you believe I am the Plant Manager of a PVC pipe operation and never thought of using my own product? What a great idea! I have gleaned a lot of information from the RR Track program and my wife is having a great time laying out her planting ideas. We have made a deal, I do the trains and she does the scenery planning.

Mark Selep

#32
Mark Selep said:
John,

Would you believe I am the Plant Manager of a PVC pipe operation and never thought of using my own product? What a great idea! I have gleaned a lot of information from the RR Track program and my wife is having a great time laying out her planting ideas. We have made a deal, I do the trains and she does the scenery planning.

Mark Selep


Mark, thanks it is a great Idea, but not mine, I found it in “How to design and build your Garden RailRoad” by Jack Verducci a Garden Railways Book. Worked for me. Good luck

#33

Does anyone have any input on the quality of engines from Hartland Locomotive Works? Is this a comperable product to LGB?

#34

Mark to me , the Hartland locos are as operationally long lasting as LGB locos . I also think the Hartlands are built very strong , do not break easily . And the Hartlands are ok looking models compared to the other brands , but not scale . Hartlands are made here in America . I started with a Hartland 4-4-0 , still have it , and another 4-4-0 also , they still run GREAT !

[img/]

[img/] Hartlands operate in ALL weather conditions

[img/] I also like the Hartland interurbans also , the 6 of them operate well for me …

[img/]

#35

I also have a number of HLW products and fine them to be very durable.

#36

Thanks for the HLW information. Well I jumped in with both feet and ordered the LGB 23191 Mogul Steam loco and five cars, and five buildings from Smith Pond Junction to start building while the vegatable garden grows. My next step will be RC conversion, RCS looks like the best bet for a newbie to me. Hope I’m on the right track!

Mark Selep

#37
Mark Selep said:
Thanks for the HLW information. Well I jumped in with both feet and ordered the LGB 23191 Mogul Steam loco and five cars, and five buildings from Smith Pond Junction to start building while the vegatable garden grows. My next step will be RC conversion, RCS looks like the best bet for a newbie to me. Hope I'm on the right track!

Mark Selep


RCS has been great for us here on the NBRR!!! can’t say enough good about Dave and Tony!

…I used the PVC for subroad bed… http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=6875 link to my building log (work stalled for now as I plan water feature)

Good Luck and welcome in!

The Scale can be decided at a later date…for me it is Fn3, for the kids it’ll be 1.2X whatever is durable-like HLW Macks and such…

cale

#38

I don’t understand the PVC for sub roadbed. Did you anchor the track to it? If so, how? Looks like you might have used the pipe I make. Adds a whole new idea to my plans considering I’m only five blocks from the plant and run all sizes from 1/2" to 6" electrical conduit PVC pipe.

Mark Selep

#39
Mark Selep said:
I don't understand the PVC for sub roadbed. Did you anchor the track to it? If so, how? Looks like you might have used the pipe I make. Adds a whole new idea to my plans considering I'm only five blocks from the plant and run all sizes from 1/2" to 6" electrical conduit PVC pipe.

Mark Selep


yeah…i only have a few min to respond-sorry for shortness

Trench, place 1/2" rebar to grade, attach 3/4" PVC to rebar with wire tie, Ballast around and under, lay track, attach to PVC with sheetrock screws…

Kevin Strong did a few issue article using this method in GR a short while back…see if you can lay your hands on Magazine or catch up with Kevin…

I’m pleased with the system and encourage you to try…if there are more questions please ask!

cale

3/4" gray PVC-conduit

#40

Does anyone know a website where I can find a picture of a LGB 22192 Mogal? I’ve looked and looked to no avail.

Mark Selep