13’ x 17" track needs some cleaning. tested a couple small HO engines and they work on it.
I am thinking urban traction with catenary?
13’ x 17" track needs some cleaning. tested a couple small HO engines and they work on it.
I am thinking urban traction with catenary?
Boomer just wants to make the balloon dart game and the duck pond kids game details Vic. Take him up on it. And don’t forget the number wheel game, or the whack a mole table.
Dave , you really should learn to spell —
“or the whack a mole table” indeed .
It’s spelled Guacamole table .
Miguel el Brito
OK there might be a little confusion going on here,
Guacamole:
Whack a mole:
One is delicious when eaten, the other not so much…
just want to make sure we’re all on the same page here
Vic , no confusion at all .
Just another joke that fell flat .
Mike Brit
Don’t fret Mike. I got it and thought it was funny!
Vic Smith said:
OK there might be a little confusion going on here,
Guacamole:
Whack a mole:
One is delicious when eaten, the other not so much…
just want to make sure we’re all on the same page here
So, Vic, jus’ to make sure that I’m still with you, which one is the tasty one?
Vic Smith said:
13’ x 17" track needs some cleaning. tested a couple small HO engines and they work on it.
I am thinking urban traction with catenary?
That sounds good, put a bandstand inside, complete with band and sound module. Should make an interesting micro layout.
Catenary could be too much of a PITA because of the many masts to get around the curves.
On those moles, they are much feared by some garden railroaders.
Steve Featherkile said:
Vic Smith said:
OK there might be a little confusion going on here,
Guacamole:
Whack a mole:
One is delicious when eaten, the other not so much…
just want to make sure we’re all on the same page here
So, Vic, jus’ to make sure that I’m still with you, which one is the tasty one?
The green one
HJ the catenary is what will make it interesting.
I am planning streetfront scenes along with backyard backalley type scenes, doing the overhead wiring last. One of my all time favorite MRs was called the Crooked Mountain Lines by a guy named Bob Hegges, it was an O scale traction line that back in the 70’s had some incredible modeling. I want to make my own little homage to this line.
With street fronts you can get rid of a few masts by attaching the cat to the structures.
PS I remember Bob Hegge’s articles quite well AND did a double take when I saw “Winterthur” mentioned.
Winterthur (the city in Switzerland) used to be the home of top notch Swiss railway engineering sold to many RR companies around the globe e.g. the Manitou and Pikes Peak Railway. BTW their “Abt” cog system is also a Swiss design.
The biggest thing I currently need to have is an old school grit typewriter eraser to clean the rails with. I have one on the way. The track needs a good cleaning. This looks like it’s a few year’s old but it’s a great starting point.
Vic Smith said:
The biggest thing I currently need to have is an old school grit typewriter eraser to clean the rails with. I have one on the way. The track needs a good cleaning. This looks like it’s a few year’s old but it’s a great starting point.
800 Grit wet/dry sanding paper (automotive item) with a drop of kerosene will do an excellent job, too.
Vic, Through a lot of the small scale hobby shops you can buy a “Brite Boy”, its what the smaller scale folks use to clean their track with. Brass can be cleaned, and the oxidation removed, with either Catchup, or vinegar with a little salt added to it.
David Maynard said:
Vic, Through a lot of the small scale hobby shops you can buy a “Brite Boy”, its what the smaller scale folks use to clean their track with. Brass can be cleaned, and the oxidation removed, with either Catchup, or vinegar with a little salt added to it.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen brass track in the smaller scales, that stuff was just too much fun.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
David Maynard said:
Vic, Through a lot of the small scale hobby shops you can buy a “Brite Boy”, its what the smaller scale folks use to clean their track with. Brass can be cleaned, and the oxidation removed, with either Catchup, or vinegar with a little salt added to it.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen brass track in the smaller scales, that stuff was just too much fun.
Not sure if its brass, its certainly not stainless, it’s not silver. I had great luck cleaning really pesky dirt with the grit eraser. There’s stuff imbedded first top of the track and something tough is needed.
Quick post from the tablet. The train gods must want me to do this as within a period of about two week I got three Woodland Scenics metal building kits on Ebay and at a local thrift shop where I have had great luck with train stuff in the past, I got three more Woodland metal kits. All for cheap! I am currently building them. I also added a wood base to the micro with a power pack attached. Pics soon, I am having issues with most all my electronic device’s so pics when I can.
Well I also found at the same thrift store some HO 30’ cars and some VERY old O gauge clockwork Locos, more on that later.
some pics of the buildings so far, slow but making progress
Very cool Vic. What kind of clockwork did you pick up?
Shawn (napkin builder) Viggiano said:
Very cool Vic. What kind of clockwork did you pick up?
Two old, I mean really old 1920’s Ives locos, and one similar era UFO (Unknown Found Object) I know one doesn’t run but the other two i dont know yet, do not have the right sized key to test them. Luckily most clockwork trains are usually repairable. I’ll have to take some pics.
http://www.historytoy.com/Ives-1117-1911-Steam-locomotive-in-black-with-name-plate-IVES-No-1117-and
http://www.historytoy.com/Ives-1116-1920-Steam-locomotive-in-black-rubber-stamped-silver-lettering
These look similar