Large Scale Central

Look under

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

Look wide, say the Scouts. Sometimes it pays to look under, too, especially before laying switches. Yes, you all know that. Me, I didn’t think of it.
Laid in my quarry sidings some time back, with a second-hand LGB R3 switch, but didn’t get around to wiring them up till later. Then I found that one siding took a loco just fine, but the other was dead as Marley. Took me a while and a look at Mr Schreyer’s website to realize I’d better check the “straps” that carry current between the rails under the switch ties. Lifted the switch this evening, and shure nuff, the spot welding had broken at one end of two straps, so no lectric was getting through to the frog/switch rail. D’oh!.
Found another s/h switch, and this time checked underneath; all straps connected. Removed dud switch, installed replacement, checked with ohmmeter, all looks good. Will try a loco on it in daylight, if’n it don’t rain.

Second observation: I have an Aristo Elite power supply, the kind that can be switched between 13.8 and 22 volt output. I’ve been using it for two or three years with TE throttles on my Thomas show layout, set at 13.8 v because I never push the throttles much above 6-8v output and I had plans to connect some 12v lighting, and everything trundled along happily enough. Then I “borrowed” the Elite to power the outdoor line, and switched it up to 22v to lessen any effects from voltage drop in the 20+ foot 12-gauge connection from power supply/TE throttle to the layout. Worked nicely there, too, though it takes 15-20 seconds of holding the TE button down for a loco to start, and an equally long time to brake (I rather like the effect). Two weeks ago I took it to a show with the Thomas layout, leaving the Elite at 22v; boy, did those trains get off the mark smartish, no delays there (much shorter throttle/track connections, of course). I guess the TEs like the 22v input, so I’ll leave it there. The platform/street lighting plans never came to fruition, anyway, and I can always connect the bulbs in series to work on the higher voltage if I revive the project.

Fun, always fun.

#2

Ok, I’ll give in and say, “Under where?”

#3

Yep. One of my first lessons learned … dead LGB switches right out of the box. I had about a 40% failure rate. Fixed them by hard wiring jumpers around the faults. No longer a problem! Because I fixed them? Yes and No. Yes that fixed the problem, but I no longer care, because now I’m all battery power.

#4
Tom Ruby said:
Ok, I'll give in and say, "Under where?"
Under the LGB switch, where those connecting strips lurk, and where I didn't look at first :P
#5
Del Tapparo said:
... but I no longer care, because now I'm all battery power.
These switches were a gift from Fr "Battery" Fred, and of course he wasn't affected by broken electrical connections either. I looked under all the other switches; about half have disconnected straps. The Canadian climate be hard on thingies that live outdoors year-round. Understand, I'm not complaining: Fred's generous gift saved me an enormous whack of cash and I will either wire around the problem as you did, or use the switches on a battery-power section. I have the gubbins to build a battery-power boxcab; just got to get around to it. Alas, round tuits are rare birds hereabouts; they keep getting chased away by vicious honeydo suckers (and, shudder, The Job) :( Incidentally, the replacement switch, with all straps connected, works fine: I tested it this afternoon. Yesterday afternoon, it rained; both days on the weekend, it's supposed to rain again. Singin', I ain't ;)