Locktite is referenced oft times – “blue” is stated.
Likely other readers have this same request:
Would TOC or others experienced with its use please give a summary as to types and an example of application per type?
For example, I read on the “other site” the Aristo Mallet’s wheels should “have application of blue Locktite.” Any other color means what?
Many thanks.
Wendell
You get too strong a version and it’s a torch to remove the parts.
I use 222 LockTite, the lightest.
I have 242 if I think I need it.
222 is purple or pink.
I don’t remember the numbers. The first one invented is blue… good for virtually everything you will need.
The next step is red, on the container, it is for stuff you will never take apart again. It says special tools are required for disassembly. Heat is one way to loosen it.
Aristo uses it on the taper fit between the axle and wheel, and on the retaining screw on the axle. You only need blue, blue will not loosen. If it does, you don’t have the screw tight enough, or there was oil or grease on the threads when you put it together.
I have never had to use the purple or orange.
Regards, Greg
Well, well, well.
Not that it will do any good, but here’s a little info:
“Blue” or “242”- Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4"
Not too many 1/4" bolts in our hobby…
“Red” or “271”- Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (and I can produce more data)
“Green”, possibly “290”- Ideal for fasterners #2 - 1/2"
“Purple”, or “222” screwlocker… Low strength threadlocker designed for precision fasteners under 1/4†that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Recommended for low-strength threadlocking of adjusting screws, countersunk head screws and set screws.
Also use on low strength metals such as aluminium or brass which could break during disassembly.
Goes all the way up to “648”.
I’ve seen “Blue” snap small screwheads off trying to disassemble, by hey, whatthehell do I know.
Since to open the gearboxes you HAVE to remove the wheels, I would never use “Blue”, but I have it if someone has been convinced that is the only way to go.
…sometimes, Dave; you just can’t win. I gave up a long time ago…!!!
All I can tell you is Aristo uses the red stuff on the taper on the axle to the driver AND on the locking screw. Many people have broken the screw off or rounded the head with the driver.
I recommended stepping down to blue, and some people went crazy.
Also, many people slather the stuff on, you only need it on a few threads. Several people have reported the locking screw and washer saturated with red loctite.
Of course there are people that use the red stuff and the screw still comes loose. Upon investigation, many of these people did not clean the screw and the threaded hole, so I suspect oil or grease in there.
I have used both over the years on all kinds of stuff, mostly automotive. The strength of the red stuff scares the heck out of me. Several people have reported success by heating their screwdriver with a torch, or applying a soldering iron to the screw head.
I think blue is enough. A little bit of blue.
Regards, Greg
p.s. 271 is for up to 1", there is no mimimum bolt size, the example torque specs start at 3/8", see page 2 of the technical data sheet. The web site states “up to 1 inch”.
p.p.s I was interested to see that both blue and red were listed as permanent, thought blue was supposed to be removeable… looks like purple would be worth a try for our tiny screws.
Which is exactly why we only use 222 purple, and recommend it.
Bachmann used the heavier stuff on later 2-8-0 motor screws, and if you aren’t real careful, you’ll tear the head off the screw.
Thanks for the tip Dave… I will go out and buy some… mistakenly thought that purple was “above” blue and red, and also blue was not permanent.
From my experience, the thread lockers are more of vibration insurance, not the prime factor in locking the assembly.
When you use it, do you have a rule of thumb on what percentage of the threads you coat? I’ve always put it on the end of the screw, with the theory that applying it there helps spread it up the length of the screw.
What’s your advice?
Regards, Greg
According to the seminars, “a little is good, more is better” does NOT apply!
One drop. I usually place it near the end of the threads so it gets spread properly as you run the screw in.
Vibration, maybe, but they have products that do so many things…
And using it on the axle to wheel joint is different than threads.
The joint should be an overall stronger joint.
We have some used for mounting axle bearings onto axles when there is a bit of wear and they aren’t tight…and it takes a torch to break the stuff loose.