Large Scale Central

Live steam shay issue #2

Electronics Live Steam
#1

The second issue is that the two axles on the rear truck have too much play in them. So much that they disengage from the bezel gear on the drive shaft.

Here is where they are dissengaging:

Here is a photo of the bracket holding the axle. There is a small bearing (a solid block) that the axle nests in and it is press-fit into the bracket. It appears to be brass. In this photo you can see just a bit of it protruding from the bracket:

This bearing slowly shifts outward creating more travel for the axle. I can push it back into tolerance by using a jeweler’s screwdriver and pushing thru the small holes on the outside of the truck:

Unfortunately, it will only slip back out.

Has anyone ever worked with this assembly before? Any suggestions how to get it to stay in tolerance?

Thanks,

Joe

#2

It looks like you will have to take the truck apart to look at the inner bushing. The wheels should not have much play side to side. I don’t remember seeing those parts that are stuffed between your wheel and the axlebox, it looks like someone put wire in there.

#3

Thanks Jason. I’ll have to invest in some tools to work on these small nuts & bolts, then I can tackle the teardown. Any suggestions where to buy such tools?

#4

Most AccuCraft models come with a spiffy tool kit that includes one or two but-drivers for the most commonly used bolt heads on the model.

Sets of these nut-runners or nut-drivers, suitable for the radio-controlled helicopter and car models can be bought in most hobby stores.

tac

#5

Joe,

Looking at photo #2 of the top view of the truck, it doesn’t look very square either. Sure looks like somebody has been in there.

Chester Louis SA #64 Hampshire County Narrow Gauge

#6

Joe Bussing said:

Thanks Jason. I’ll have to invest in some tools to work on these small nuts & bolts, then I can tackle the teardown. Any suggestions where to buy such tools?

Joe, You can pick up some metric nutdriver sets from Wiha. The one you will need is the 2mm and 3mm mostly. I do have some small thumb nutdrivers from Regner available. They are also much cheaper then the Wiha, but they are not very long being only about 2.5" long.

http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/265pico.htm I don’t see the nut driver set listed anymore though.

You would need for general work:

2mm 3mm 5mm.

#7

Micromark still lists the Wiha metric sets for $42. http://www.micromark.com/8-piece-precision-nutdriver-metric-set,7778.html

I also have one of their small nutdriver sets for 00-90, 0-80, 1-72, etc. The smaller ones fit Accucraft bolts. http://www.micromark.com/4-piece-nutdriver-set,7450.html.

#8

Don’t know where you live, but many good (non Radio Shack) electronics stores carry a selection of small screw and nut drivers.

If I understand your problem, the brass bearings are sliding outwards, right, causing the axles to shift left, and disengage? If this is so, why not just cut a bit of shim stock and set it in back of the loose bearings, so they don’t shift? You’ll still have to do some disassembly, but if that’s the problem, should be an easy fix. You could probably even use cotton wadding, a bit of tin can or something if you don’t have proper shim stock.

#9

Hey guys, thanks for the input. Ray, you hit the nail on the head. A shim will probably work best. The bearing block travels up and down with the suspension so if I keep it lubed it should be fine. The alternative is to place a washer on the axle between the wheel and the bearing. That could see a bit more wear over time but won’t be subject to high RPM. Afterall, this is a shay…

Couldn’t find the nut driver in town so ordered a 7 pc Wiha set online.

Thanks again!

#10

Hey, that Shay of yours must have more miles on it than the Starship’ Enterprise’ :open_mouth:

Ours was the first here in yUK back when, and gets runs most weekends, sometimes with only a half-hour rest between runs if we are doing a public S & T.

I’ve got no visible wear on any moving parts of the loco, and certainly nothing like your loco has shown.

Hope you get it back in running order - any Shay, but especially a live-steamer - is a real hoot to watch.

From the right side, anyhow.

tac, ig, ken the GFT & The Port Orford Coast Extension Boys

PS - at the last S & T I got asked why I had such a lousy sound system in it…

#11

tac Foley said:

Hey, that Shay of yours must have more miles on it than the Starship’ Enterprise’ :open_mouth:

Ours was the first here in yUK back when, and gets runs most weekends, sometimes with only a half-hour rest between runs if we are doing a public S & T.

I’ve got no visible wear on any moving parts of the loco, and certainly nothing like your loco has shown.

Hope you get it back in running order - any Shay, but especially a live-steamer - is a real hoot to watch.

From the right side, anyhow.

tac, ig, ken the GFT & The Port Orford Coast Extension Boys

PS - at the last S & T I got asked why I had such a lousy sound system in it…

So what was your answer?

#12

After borrowing one of my wife’s make-up “tools” I was able to remove the 2mm bolts and disassemble the truck. I tried a few differenct shim widths behind the bearing block and found that a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/32 one did the trick. Ran it on the test bench and the did a couple of evening runs. Seems to be running fine now. Hurray! Next up is the water feed check valve.

#13

My answer was to turn my hearing aid up, and shout ‘EH?’ loudly.

Well, actually, I told him that if he watched me, in a few minutes I’d be putting more ‘cooling’ water in it, except that it wasn’t ‘just ordinary water’ but special water with steam sounds dissolved it it - when heated up in the boiler, they came out like ‘real’ steam noises but were obviously not as loud as the real thing…

tac, ig, ken the GFT & The ‘Tirer le Jamb’ Boys

#14

That is Brilliant Tac!!! Toot!! Toot!!