So since I’m getting close enough to be thinking about replacing my old NiMH and NiCad batteries on my locomotives since the layout is getting closer to being finished, I need some recommendations on LiOn batteries for USAT 4 axle power.
14.4 v, 2000-3000maH? I think my current set up is 2 7.2v, 1500 maH ran in parallel for 14.4 @3000 maH and it seems to last plenty long.
I have a smart charger already so that part is taken care of.
What are things I should be looking out for?
Craig,
2X 7.2V @ 1500maH batteries will either be 14.2V @ 1500maH wired in series or 7.2V @3000maH wired in parallel.
Wired in series will double the voltage at the same amperage or wiring in parallel will double the amperage at the same voltage.
My bet would be they are wired in series doubling the voltage with the same amperage, 14.4V @ 1500maH. Getting the higher amperage at the lower voltage would make your trains run quite slow.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLCB8RWK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
These are compact and work for me.
Jerry
Jerry,
I saw those on Amazon too and there whet got me posting. The price seemed too good to be true.
Have you noticed any issues?
I wasn’t going to comment on this , but you get what you pay for.
I have been using Tenergy batteries since day one. Back in the Ni Cad,
then the NiMH years and now Lithium.
I can’t remember any failing. Just wearing out.
Those cells in that Amazon battery for that price …
All my locomotives except one have 18.5v 3350mah batteries from RLD Hobbies , just under $70 , and they will run roundy round operations for 4.5-5 hours with one loco pulling about 8-16 cars , one has a bigger battery 18.5 6700mah and it will last over 5 hrs
I understand the higher priced batteries may likely be better quality, but the one I referenced has done OK for me, and especially note the compact size, hard to find smaller packs like that, I recently installed it into a Aristo RS 3 under the front hood. And several of my Tenergy or other known brand packs come up with a "connection break"error after some years of use.
Jerry
Why don’t we discuss this while waiting in line for breakfast while jingling our pocket change. Then continue the conversation over breakfast then argue about who’s gonna buy. In the mean time still discussing the topic while walking out of diner trying to fart silently or at least we thought we were.
John,
Swing by and pick me up we’ll meet the others half way.
(side note) …If you wish, I can drive your car to the diner after you pick me up.
The 18.5v 3350 3
I run MTO 14.8V 3.5Ah batteries that I buy from Don Sweet at RCS of New England. I formerly used Tenergy, but had several packs fail, possibly due to my own fault in managing them. I have Tenergy batteries hard wired inside at least 4 locos that are still going strong after maybe 10 years.
I chose MTO because I was really impressed with their BMS system and how well it handles dead shorts. There is a video somewhere comparing theirs to other brands in a dead short test. Most others melt wires before they shut down.
My locos are mostly Fn3 steam outline and I run point-to-point at slow speeds. 3.5Ah is not enough for 1:29 diesels. I’d go with at least 6 amp hours and maybe 18.5V if you want to run fast roundy round.
Most importantly, get a good charger. Most chargers labeled “smart charger” are not. They rely on the battery BMS to shut down the charge and they have no adjustments other than pack voltage. A real smart charger will be programmable as to voltage, charge current and max charge time among other parameters. An example of one is the Tenergy TB6B
Several others sell the same basic charger under different names/model numbers.
I’ve not had a single Tenergy or MTO fail since switching to a programmable charger.
Jon,
I have one of those Tenery chargers that you can adjust all the variables.
I’m not really running fast. More slow switching speeds.
I got to get the last part of the layout finished and then I can order some batteries and start running again.
You gotta have sound then!
I do. ESU Loksound decoders! Finishing up the programming on them is a winter project.
I had one of the cells of my Li-ion battery go bad and it took out the charger. Maybe you want some protection for this sort of thing if offered.
Todd - good advice. The real Smart Chargers as mentioned above, verify the number of cells present and confirm the pack voltage is at least at minimum. They will not start a charge on a pack with a bad cell.
I have at least one pack that has a marginal cell. If I discharge it too far, the smart charger will not charge it. To salvage it, I connect it to the dumb charger. It does not care and I charge for around 10 minutes. That will bring the voltage up to where the smart charge will charge it. I finish charging on the smart charger.
