I googled the Hillman bridge hinge and was wondering if one could just use a T Hinge bent to shape
I am generally a pretty handy guy but for some reason I am having trouble seeing how to make this work (easily) without having to fabricate the entire hinge assembly.
If I were to bend a T hinge to shape, I am thinking that the pivot point of the hinge needs to be as high or higher than the top of the rail, right, preferably higher? Then it will lift away as it is rising?
Take a look at my bridge hinge Devon, has worked for eleven years with no problems.
Dan,
I see how the bottom part of the hinge is working. Is the top part a barrel type hinge that is bolted to the girder?
Devon Sinsley said:
Dan,
I see how the bottom part of the hinge is working. Is the top part a barrel type hinge that is bolted to the girder?
That’s correct Devon I’ll try and get a photo of that later today.
I understand fully. This was the type of solution I was looking for.
Same idea, the hinge point above the rails… that’s the key…
In this case, the end of the moving part is also “beyond” the pivot point, thus making sure the rails separate before lifting, if you will.
if you wanted to bend one yourself, instead of the example you showed, use something like this:
But realize then that hinge is maybe 2 inches wide, so you would have to add that width to your right of way on both sides. So not really as good as the examples above.
Greg
Devon here are the photos of the barrel hinge on top. At the other end of the bridge it “Keys” over a block that aligns the rails. I used Stainless bolts and washers.
Thanks Greg. I think the way Dan did it is as good as any and easy without having to get crazy fabricating things.
The one HO club I belong to folds up their balloon track module with large hinges. They look like large barn door hinges, nothing special about them. But, as has been said, the hinge pivot (barrel) is above the height of the rail-head. So when the module us unfolded, the rails butt up against each other, but when folding it up, the rails move apart instead of trying to pivot into each other.
I think that is the key. I’ve seen other approaches, like trying to bevel the ends of the rails, but in my experience, that causes even more alignment issues.
At the other end of the bridge, where the hinge “isn’t”, a nice large “alignment pin” on the underside of the bridge, and a “socket” to the “ground” really helps ensure precise and consistent/repeatable alignment of the rails.
I find the method employed by Dan, for his lift bridge, to be first class. It is tried and tested - eleven years in situ he said.
I don’t have a lift bridge at present but have often considered installing one rather than the existing fixed bridge I have. One thing you learn quickly in garden railroading is the need, ideally, for strong, lasting structures particularly if you get visitors, including children and animals (dogs in my case). Dan’s lift bridge seems to fit all those requirements.
I used some commercial aluminum door hinges for mine. They work very well. Almost certainly overkill.
I have the hinges Dan used in service on our farm. I am about 190lbs and have been “riding” these gates for years! Commonly called strap hinges where I’m from. https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N130-005-290BC-Plated/dp/B000AYJEPI
Dan Gilchrist said:
I have the hinges Dan used in service on our farm. I am about 190lbs and have been “riding” these gates for years! Commonly called strap hinges where I’m from. https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N130-005-290BC-Plated/dp/B000AYJEPI
You reminded me Dan that I have some of these strap hinges which are galvanised and were rescued from a neighbours broken gates. They are only a couple of years old so in good condition, They are for new gates here so the railroad gets the short straw - again!
you don’t need any fancy hinges.
just think, where you position the hinges.
in the pic, at the left, you can see, that by having an overhang of rails outside of the hinged section, the rails of the bridge separate downwards from the fixed rails.
Korm Kormsen said:
you don’t need any fancy hinges.
just think, where you position the hinges.
in the pic, at the left, you can see, that by having an overhang of rails outside of the hinged section, the rails of the bridge separate downwards from the fixed rails.
Excellent design Korm! Do you have an example IRL? I’m thinking an alignment mechanism is still needed on both ends.
If its done right, the hinge will align the rails on the hinge end.
Korm, I hadn’t thought of placing the hinge that way. All of the installations I have seen have the hinge at the seam, with the hinge pin/pivot above the rail head.
Dan Gilchrist said:
Korm Kormsen said:
you don’t need any fancy hinges.
just think, where you position the hinges.
in the pic, at the left, you can see, that by having an overhang of rails outside of the hinged section, the rails of the bridge separate downwards from the fixed rails.
Excellent design Korm! Do you have an example IRL? I’m thinking an alignment mechanism is still needed on both ends.
while i was at the stage of building the mecanism of the bridge, SWMBO approved a new hobby room. resulting in changes of plan.
i never build the support and alignment of the lift-side. (the plan was to use inclined copperplates for alignment and contact)
but the hinge-side worked as planned.
now it is a fixed bridge over a “duck-under”.