I’m building a new elevated layout and would like to leave a section open in order to access the other side of the benchwork. Have any of you use a lift out bridge assembly in order to allow a passthrough? Specifically, how have you maintained conductivity across the bridge when in place? Don’t think rail clamps would work, would have to undo them every time the pass through is used. I’m sure someone has figured out a simple way solve this. Any ideas will help. Thanks.
There used to be some railclamps that were made/designed for liftout bridges… Not sure if they are being made anymore…
I suppose some could be made from regular railclamps, by grinding/cutting off the top lip on the railclamp… Seem to me that the one-piece clamp would be better for this application…
Splitjaw still list them http://www.railclamp.com/ do not make a lift out make a lift up then you can wire the lift-up part and just let swing
Rich, I think you’ll find those SplitJaw drop-ins conduct well enough you won’t need electrical connectors. But if you do, you might consider 4-pin trailer wiring extensions from the auto parts store. I don’t know the amperage rating, but it’s more than enough for our trains. And they are weather-proof.
I was going to add what Bill said to my post the only thing i would add is the connector will corrode so just put a little of silcone grease to it
Use the split jaw units, but run a jumper around the opening, so current does not always flow through the SJ clamps, since there is a small spring loaded ball that makes most of the electrical contact.
If you are running high loads, like 10 amps, or a serious short and draw 20 amps, that small contact point can get hot and overheat the spring and take the temper out of it.
Don’t ask me how I know this… bzzzttt…
Greg
Andy Clarke said:
There used to be some railclamps that were made/designed for liftout bridges… Not sure if they are being made anymore…
I suppose some could be made from regular railclamps, by grinding/cutting off the top lip on the railclamp… Seem to me that the one-piece clamp would be better for this application…
I have done just that. I used a solid Hillman not a split jaw and removed the lips from one half of the clamp. Part of the clamp grabs onto the approaching rails and the bridge which has the rails hanging over the edge of it just a bit gets placed onto the ground out rail clamp.
I have brass track and brass railclamps so every once in awhile they need to be cleaned up to keep the electrical connection.
It works for me and it was cheap.
have a look here: http://kormsen.info/bridges/ (scroll down two thirds)
what i found very usefull is separated contact of electricity. such, that the bridge must be down, to give electricity to the access track on both sides.
(no high-divers that way!)
When I made my first bridge, I knew nothing of outdoor railroading. So I took the Aristo rail joiners and affixed them to the track on the abutment. On the bridge rails I ground the foot off of them for the length of the rail joiner, so that the bridge rails just slid down into the Aristo rail joiners. By crimping the rail joiners slightly, I made it a friction fit. Mt bridge rails are still that way today, and the trains still run across the bridge with track power. As for routing power across the gap, you probably will want to run wiring along the floor, through one them rubber thresholds made for running wires along the floor. That way you aren’t counting on the bridge contacts to power everything on the other side of the bridge.
I have one lift-out and two swing up bridges. I agree with all of the suggestions so far. I’m using Hillman bride clamps which work the same way as the Split Jaw to connect power.
A method to prevent running into the abyss whether it be electrical or mechanical is very desirable and will save you from disaster. I’ve tested my method (a manually placed bollard in the center of the track) numerous times. Before I implemented it I had a loco run off on to the cement floor (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)
My to swing up bridges both fold to lay flat on the approach track. You can see my bollard, and Aristo track screw driver across the abyss…
Sadly, no more hillman bridge clamps or the hinge assembly. They were the best.
Greg
I made my own hinges using standard hinges up on blocks. You just need to get the pivot point near the top of the rail. From previous comments it sounds like the Split Jaw bridge clamps are very similar to the Hilman.
I used a big “phone jack” and socket - the kind the guitar guys use - with the plug mounted under the lift/swing up bridge, and the socket on the ledge that it sits upon. The plug held it in place and passed power to the bridge rails.
Rich, How often are you going to be lifting it out?
If it is just an occasional lift go to the auto parts store and get a
couple sets of two prong connectors with pig tails. Solder to the rails
and anchor the wire so no stress is placed on the solder joints. Simple,
plug and unplug and they hold up well outdoors. I had them on one bridge for
almost 8 years with no problems.
For the bridge you might want to consider centering pins on each end, really helps keep
everything aligned and makes it easy to pull and replace the bridge without a bunch
of fussing around.
Keep us posted on your project.
Rick
I have both the SJ and the Hillman bridge clamps, in fact one lift out has SJ on one end and the other Hillman, the Hillman are far superior.
In fact if anyone has any for sale, I will pay a good price for them.
Greg
All thanks for your advice. Rick your idea might work. I’ve three bridges I will have to lift out from time to time. My bench work is not yet at the point to work on the problem. I have about 50% of the bench work framed. Snows are coming, so work will slow down for awhile. I will order a couple sets of the SJ bridge clamps to see if they will work on one location, but they ARE expensive! I expect I will visit with some of you later for more advice. Thanks!
I just use regular split jaw clamps on Sully’s lift out bridge. Just loosen them, slide them back onto the rail and lift it out. To put it back, reverse the process.
Tom Ruby said:
I just use regular split jaw clamps on Sully’s lift out bridge. Just loosen them, slide them back onto the rail and lift it out. To put it back, reverse the process.
That’s a great solution for a bridge that only occasionally needs to be lifted. I have two that fit that category. I also have two that need to be lifted several times per session. For those the Hillman clamps were perfect when I was running track power and I still have them in place. Now that I’m 100% battery I could eliminate them and just devise a positive alignment system for the rails and leave the gap open.