Large Scale Central

Lift out Bridge

Track and Trestles
#1

Does any one have a picture or a great idea of how to put in a lift out bridge?(inside). How do I remove and keep electrical continuity.
SteveZ

#2

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the site. Hillman Railclamps makes a Liftout Bridge Railclamp. The one side attached to the stationary rail and the other side has a ball plunger screw that snaps the other rail in place. You can use 4 of these clamps and completely remove the bridge or they also make a bridge hinge kit that allows the bridge to swing up out of the way. Tha clamps run $12.00 a pr.

Go to www.hillmansrailclamps.com and you can see them.

Chuck
C & C Railroad Distributor

#3

I got tired of trying to figure out where to stow the lift-out sections and also wanted something quicker, so a fold up bridges were built. This is a curved one. The center fold of this bridge is hard wired and one end uses a Hillman bridge clamp. The other end is the boundary of a reverse loop section and makes no electrical contact.

I have a straight one too, but no photos handy. JR

#4
Chuck Inlow said:
Tha clamps run $12.00 a pr. Chuck C & C Railroad Distributor
Here in Merry England they run $25 a pair.

sigh…

tac

#5

Terry,
Shouldn’t cost too much to slip a pair(or more) in the mail.
TOG

#6
John Bouck said:
Terry, Shouldn't cost too much to slip a pair(or more) in the mail. TOG
I bought six sets when I was last over in OR.....and many thanks for the offer, if you were offering [?]

I’m pretty sure that there is nothing that anybody on the forum wants from HERE, but on the off-chance that anybody needs anything train-related that originates in yUK, please ask and we’ll bring it over with us - being ex-military we are both very light travellers and rarely use up even half our individual baggage allowance on AA/AC.

We are over in Oregon from 28 December to about 25 January…

tac

#7

Steve,
I have a removable bridge. Lifting the bridge is simply a matter of sliding the four stainless steel rail joiners in a direction away from the bridge. When installing, I slide the rail joiners back in position. I have secured the plastic sleep tie base so that the rail connectors slide back in exactly halfway the length of the connector. This method locks the bridge and provides consistent power continuity. I slightly closed up the connectors so that they are a neat fit on the rail, but still able to be moved by finger pressure.

#8

TAC,

I could use a Class 66, couple of the Bachmann brass locos, and one of everything in Bandbrights catalog!

Thanks

Andre’

#9

And you are going to pay for it how…??? :stuck_out_tongue:

#10
Andre Schofield said:
I could use a Class 66, couple of the Bachmann brass locos, and one of everything in Bandbrights catalog!
Bachmann makes brass locos??
#11

Warren,

Didn’t know that was a requirement. I just took him up on his very kind offer! hehe

Bachmann UK makes some gauge one ( I believe) brass locos. Brass is pretty thin and with the exchange rate they are getting pricey.

Andre’

#12
Ray Dunakin said:
Andre Schofield said:
I could use a Class 66, couple of the Bachmann brass locos, and one of everything in Bandbrights catalog!
Bachmann makes brass locos??
Yes, Bachmann makes three very nice British-outline G1 steam electrically-powerd locomotives.

The GWR pannier tank, a GNR J39 saddle tank and the ubiquitous BR ‘Jinty’ - all 0-6-0 types. Prices are dependent on whether you buy brass/unpainted or basic black or green painted, and which model you choose.

They are VERY good true scale models that would be very hard to replicate from kits for the money - between £650 and £750, again, depending on the model.

Sadly, the Class 66 has not yet made an appearance here, but we are told that they are unloaded, perhaps. As an uninterested observer of the British rail scene, the hoohah about the Class 66 [a beautifully detailed model BTW] is of only passing interest to me.

I CAN get hold of small parts and accessories, if required, and will charge the customer the price I paid.

Graders to all

tac