Any one have an idea on how to use a 10 Mile with LGB Turmouts. So far I have had to remove the LGB point bar and make a new one out of printed circuit board material. Circuit board so I can solder the brass pin toconnect the point rails together. The 10 Mile has a throw of 1/4" and the LGB needs more, like 3/8". I would like to not have to tear up a bunch of track to get two turnouts out and on to the work bench.
Any ideas?
Paul
Use a bell crank between the point bar and the throw rod. An “L” or triangular piece of brass pivoted off center enough to allow for a smaller distance moved by the throw rod to give a larger movement for the point bar. It doesn’t have to be exact if you put a “kink” in the throw rod to act as a spring to take up slack and assure a tight snap. Oh, and use spring wire for the throw rod of course.
I’ve got a bunch of them. I also have a write up in the articles section of this forum.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/view.php?id=58
Hope it helps.
Bummer Ric -
It looks like all your pictures for that article got clobbered in Bob’s latest attack 
The Tenmille ones are like the HO ones my dad used all over his layouts for decades. Nice throw. Not sure who is selling Tenmille in the US anymore, as I have not bought anything from them in 20+ years since our 16mm days.
Another option: I have just installed two from Modellbau-Werkstatt Heyn for evaluation to replace the the LGB throws that jamb up with mud.
They are nice and have the proper throw length for LGB. Very solid units. Easy to instal in existing trackwork as they mount with two LGB point screws and use the throw bar.
While most are European in style, there is one US “harp” type:
http://www.modell-werkstatt.de/gleissystem/gleiszubehoer/index-2.html
Ah, here and a good price too!
Hi I have 10 of these that I never used and will part with if interested. Save $$$ Email
Sold Sold
Cheers TOF
Jon Radder said:
Bummer Ric -It looks like all your pictures for that article got clobbered in Bob’s latest attack
Thank you for all your ideas. I’m going to do some field testing with plastic and if they work, maybe go to brass after the convention. I’ll do the picture thing provided I can get the pictures to upload into the shed! I am still having trouble with LARGE format pictures, have to use the lod sony.
Paul
I just checked and all pictures are there, so I guess Bob got this one restored. I think all my Articles are working except one and I’ll work on it when we are back from “the Invasion”.
OK, now if I can get the picture to show up you will see the prototype chrank installed, and it works!
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/smokevalley/_forumfiles/MVC-923S.JPG)
In this concreted area I used 3/4 Ply to mount the switchs, that may have been overkill but I able to install the switch throws. Under stand that this part of the RR has been here of 10 years. The black stuff is our wonderful moss, welcome to sunny western washington! Paul
Here is the second try at ‘Groundthrow’, got this from TOC and with a little work it works fine.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/smokevalley/_forumfiles/MVC-105S.JPG)
The white you see is a styrene strip under the groundthrow and the turnout throw bar.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/smokevalley/_forumfiles/MVC-924S.JPG)
This is the upper town, now cleaned up, it was a big mess due moss and little needles from the Spruces. Paul
