I installed two new LGB switches in my layout.
My Bachmann locos with pilot trucks de rail EVERY time they go through the turn. Each direction. !@#$%^&*!
Also all passenger cars de rail !@#$%!
It appears that the plastic guard rail is to short and the frog inside is to high.
The fix looks like remove the plastic Guard rail & make a replacement out of brass rail.
Also maybe cutting away some of the frog height?
Any one seen this before?? What was your fix??
Thanks
I, ve seen it before, but having said that, I have no problem with Bachmann and my LGB switches.
Are they perfectly level, front to back and side to side?
Keep the ballast out from under them. Mine are on bridges, or on top of a smooth concrete surface.
Rich,
I use 1/2" Hardy tile backer board under my switches. It’s easier to level the switch because you’ve created a platform under its entire length. If you keep it narrow it won’t be that visible and it can be colored to match your dirt.
Check the gauge of your wheels first.
The raised frog of LGB switches can cause problems with various locos. Usually it’s not derailments, just a bump.
Why do you say the plastic guard rail is too low? Are your wheels climbing the guard rail? Run the loco through the switch as slowly as you can and tell us what happens. Improperly gauged wheels can have the edge of the flange hit the guard rail and ride up on it.
Regards, Greg
I have checked the wheels very closely and found them to be in spec. I even swapped some of the out to other cars etc makes no diff.
Going verrrrrrrry slow you can see the wheel hit the frog before the guard rail then the other wheel (otherside) goes over the guard rail.
If the frog was lower or the wheel flange was smaller then all would be better.
If the guard rail was a little longer then it could force the wheel to a better location on the frog to help to get through.
I have many other LGB switches id use and these two are the worse.
To add to this the switches are mounted flat on redwood fencing boards.
The tracks are mounted to the fence so I can get down the driveway enough to go to the Shops at the garage.
Rich:
After confirming accurate wheel back to back spacing, take a look at George Schreyer’s LGB switch tips:
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/lgb_1600.html
The last item in the section titled, “Derailments on 1600 Series Turnouts” shows a brass strip added to the guard rail. It does make the guardrail very slightly longer, but mostly forces the wheelset away from the point of the frog.
I’ve successfully used that solution for years. The strip is just bent to slip on the guard rail: No glue required.
Hope this helps.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Rich,
you say that you carefully checked the Bachmann wheels that they were ‘in spec’. Exactly how did you do this please and what spec did you use? The only effective way to check back to back is with a vernier caliper reading to three decimal places. NMRA spec is 1.575". However, this needs to be varied when wheelsets with thick flanges, such as with some USA Trains sourced wheels are used.
Bachmann has a history of notoriously undergauge wheelsets with both rolling stock and pilot wheels. A back to back of 1.520" is not uncommon with Bachmann. If running Anniversary or Big Hauler then the pilot wheels are definately undergauge and WILL derail over switches. Suprisingly, on the newly released 2-4-2 locomotive, Bachmann have gone overgauge with back to backs 0.020" over spec. This may not seem to be much but will cause problems.
After fighting this for a few weeks I gave up!
I pulled the two turnouts and took them back to Sac where I purchased them.
We compared them with other switches and I ended replacing them with the new PICO Turnouts.
I installed the two turnouts and have NOT had a problem since.
The conclusion for me was the guard rail really was too short.
The wheel would hit the frog and run over to derail with out the guard rail helping the path.
Thanks for your suggestions and help
Rich
Actually, if you had measured the switches, I’ll bet you would have found that the guardrail flangeway on the LGB was too wide… That is the #1 reason for the derailment type you mention…
The outer rails are called stock rails, that’s where the guard rails are attached. The things that look like guardrails on either side of the frog are called wing rails.
The guardrails are “engaged” before you get to the frog.
But, a guardrail “flangeway” that is too wide will not control the wheels properly when they get to the frog.
If it is too wide, it does not keep the wheelset far enough towards the outer rail, it tends to go inwards towards the frog, and then the wheel hits the point of the frog, instead of following the flangeways made by the wing rails.
Shimming the LGB switches usually works, or as in your case, buying a switch that has better “geometry” and tolerances.
Regards, Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Actually, if you had measured the switches, I’ll bet you would have found that the guardrail flangeway on the LGB was too wide… That is the #1 reason for the derailment type you mention… Regards, Greg
The guard rail guage seems to be a common problem with most of the commercially available switches. Gord Bellamy modifies all our switches with new metal guard rails at the proper spacing before installing them.
Rich,
as a precaution, I would ‘protect’ all metal surfaces (screws, terminal strips) on the underside of the Piko switches as they have a history of rusting and losing continuity. Protection could be grease or a sealant, liberally applied to the underside of the switch.
