Large Scale Central

LGB Forney Lettering

I’m not sure if I have previously posted about removing factory lettering on an LGB Forney or not…if I have please accept my apologies.

However, I am wanting to remove factory lettering from an LGB Forney so I can put Stan Cedarleaf’s custom lettering on. I have tried with care the 90% Denatured Alcohol and 10% Lacquer Thinner with no affect. I have tried “Super Clean” soaking the area with a cotton swab with no success. I’ve even tried ever so carefully taking a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper and gently rubbing the area…no affect.

So I’m not sure what to do save for finding a Krylon or Rustoleum product that matches the color of the body and just repainting.

I’m open to suggestions…

Thanks a bunch!

Richard

I’m surprised the 2000 grit paper is not working. I regularly use a rougher grade 1000/1200 grit wet and dry paper, used wet, to remove tampo printed decoration and similar. It can be hard work though using the very fine abrasives available, like 2000 grit - just persevere. Do/did LGB apply a lacquer coat over the decoration applied to seal/protect it ? That might be an issue. Or, if 2nd hand, has a previous owner applied a lacquer coat to the loco over the decoration ?

As it is, whatever method you use to remove existing decoration you are going to have to apply a gloss coat to the surface you are going to apply the decals to, unless the method you have used to remove the print has left a glossy polished base, like using auto paint cutting compound might (We call it T-Cut here in the UK - essentially a very fine abrasive). You will then need to finish with a coat of laquer, over the decal, that will match the rest of the loco’s finish. Make sure any lacquers or paints you use in conjunction with the decals are compatible with them, I’m sure Stan will be able to advise you.

Just applying a paint coat over the decoration as is will result in a raised “shadow” of the printed image showing through any overlaid paint finish and the decal. The paint might also react with with the print medium used with the decoration. Whatever you do persevere with removing the existing decoration, by whatever method, before applying anything over it or you might be disappointed with the results.

If you haven’t already got some get the Micoscale “Microset” product to aid in the application of the decal so that the decal’s carrier film is properly “hidden” when applied to the loco’s body.

a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper and gently rubbing the area

I’m with Max. In my experience lettering is paint that is tough to remove. 2000 grit won’t do it quickly - I use 400 or 600. And whichever you use it will need a surface repaint. Just painting over the existing letters doesn’t help as they are slightly raised. Wet sand the lettering off and repaint the area.
P.S. My paint remover says to put it locally on the paint to be removed and leave it until the paint starts to crinkle. Then scrape it off - seems to work. Just don’t leave it on any longer!

600 grit to cut, 800 to remove the 600 scratches and 1200 to polish

https://www.gesswein.com/p-12863-sanding-detailer-multi-functional-sanding-tool.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1fzOnZb15gIVgqDsCh0fHQSBEAQYAiABEgJOaPD_BwE

I picked up some 400 and 800 grit at the big box store today and will gently work on removing the lettering. Pete…what is your go to paint remover??

Richard

While it’s a quicker process using 600 to cut and 800 to finish I find it a bit aggressive and will lead to a dull “rough” surface that demands a primer and gloss colour coat to correct and provide decent surface to apply the decal over. 1000/1200 grit I would not use to “polish” (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif), it’s a pretty efficient tampo print remover when used wet - that’s the important bit, use them wet. Then you could use your 2000 grade, or better still a 3000 grade cloth, to polish. Even better an auto paint restorer (which when branded as plastic “polish” is much the same stuff sold in smaller bottles at a big markup). Doing it that way, assuming the body is moulded in the final colour wanted, means you should have created a decal ready smooth glossy surface without the complications of masking up and painting.

P.S. If you are abrading the printed surface or use any auto paint restorer type product to remove print or polish make sure you give the piece it’s been applied to a thorough wash, getting any residues out of any crevices, before applying any paint. There isn’t a paint or lacquer that won’t react in some way with these residues. Don’t ask me how I know.

I have found this to work, but you have to be VERY careful:

Spray can of carburetor cleaner. Put a quick squirt on a Q-tip. Let excess drip off. Do not rub hard. It will come off quickly. If you use too much, or go too slow, or too much pressure, it can eat through plastic! Patience, Grasshopper.

I just thought I would throw this out there. I found a source for 99% Alcohol. Didn’t even know there was such a thing. I got it from Fastenal.

Another very high alcohol content product is called EverClear. Available in the liquor department. I generally buy it in a small split bottle… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Works great for cleaning ALPS printer heads and electrical stuff. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

LOL Stan…would that mean you are the ALPS printer?? I mean you use it all the time…

I’ve been using the 800 wet/dry very gently and it has been working pretty well. I’ve then polished with the 2000 grit wet/dry. Interesting how some of it came right off with little effort but other areas were a bit more work. The most work was on the oil bunker. I’ve discovered that the boiler on the original Fred Gurley at Disneyland (which is what I’m converting this Forney to) is a deep blue and not the same hunter green which is on the cab and oil bunker. The domes are also this blue color except for gold around the center. I think I can pick up gold colored tape at a hobby shop or Hobby Lobby and just tape over that lettering and then apply Stan’s decals.

I’ll keep at it with the hopes of repainting very soon and reassembling everything…I’ll post pictures.

Thanks,

Richard

what is your go to paint remover??

I’ve had a bottle of Polly S, Easy Lift Off for years. I assume it is still as potent as it was when I bought it.

Try googling “polly scale paint remover”. You’ll find threads about cars, HO trains, and lots of LS stuff.