Looking for input on one of these vs using 2 different turnouts for a staging area. Most likely it would be indoor part of layout so won’t have the debris issues. How well do these 3 ways work?
Having just laid down half of my garden railway I had the same question in my mind. I also wanted to add two parking spurs and the three way would work. My thought was, if the switch failed I loose both turnouts. Twice the price of two R1 turnouts, no real savings unless you were adding R5 turnouts.
Not having this 3-way I don’t know, but in the smaller scales I have, where are the most common derailments? For me it always has been at switches. This 3-way has a lot more going on and for that reason I did not buy one. I see this is an old post with no replies. Did you buy this switch, and if so, how well does work?
No, I came to the same conclusion on cost and with no input, I decided to not spend the extra.
Prototype railroads only use fancy switches and trackwork as a last resort because it adds complexity and more expense to install and maintain. Model railroaders like the cool looking factor.
At one time, way back when LGB, and their 2 foot radius curves were the only ready to use track you could purchase easily. I purchased many LGB track components, including several of their three way switches. There was nothing wrong with those switches as far as quality was concerned, BUT…
If you are serious about doing much else than running a train around a Christmas tree, you need MUCH wider curves,nothing less than 5 foot radius/10 foot diameter.
Of course if all you are using are 4 wheeled locomotives, and rolling stock, then the 2 foot radius might be fine for a circle of track.
The ONLY trouble with the LGB THREE WAY SWITCH is that it is only 2 foot radius, on both of its routes; same goes for the LGB 1200 series switches, left and right.
Yes; LGB brags about ALL of their equipment being able to run on their sharpest curves…but not nicely, to look at, or with any great speed.
Your Three Way switch is of little use, if you are modelling most North American style equipment, and in most cases will cause you more frustration than you will put up with.
Others will disagree, and will tell you of their success…especially LGB fanatics (Fans)…and everyone is entitled to their opinions.
Go with the widest radius switches/curves that your location can accommodate, is my suggestion. Switches, if of a wider radius (Or frog number) will not cause derailments, when properly laid, and securely thrown. Most often it is the wheel (Back-to-back) spacing/gauge, that causes trouble or derailments at a
well manufactured switch/turnout. A train running at too high a speed also.
FJM
Larry; how can you suggest that some track work looks “Cool”, unless it has ice on it at a low temperature !!..?
The main reason most model railroaders use certain track work components, is to try to use what is most appropriate for what the locomotives, and rolling stock they are operating need to perform the tasks assigned to them, in a somewhat prototypical manner.
That the track work looks “Good” to the eye, usually means that it looks prototypical…without any ice being involved !!
FJM
Switch heaters will fix that cool problem. Why don’t we ever see switch heaters on model railroads?
I think it’s because we could either burn up the switch or melt those plastic ties. A heat gun or hair dryer might work if used with care, but most track cannot take intense heat for a prolonged time.
Best, David Meashey
Well, I meant more as a trackside secinic detail.
I do know someone that uses a hair drier to melt snow out of his switches.
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Most folks in large scale model an era before the current switch heaters, but a few folks have recent equipment. They should look fine. Many of the switch heaters here in Roanoke, VA seem to have their own propane tanks.
Regards, David Meashey
