Large Scale Central

ladder system building idea?

OK so this really isn’t a question on should I build a ladder system or what is the best system. I know it can be a bit of a subject and am really not interested in taking it that direction. So a preemptive request to not let this thread turn into the argument of whats the best system.

So I have chosen to build my layout on a ladder system. Due mainly to financial constraints this will not happen all at once. So I am relegated to building in steps. I was planning on doing one section and get it up and running and then do the second section and get it up and running; doing the ladder first then the track on one part then the ladder and track on the second part. That was the plan. The idea being that at least I would have something to run on.

Now I am second guessing myself and am hoping for some validation or friendly condemnation on my new way of thinking. First I have several friends who live close that I know will let me play on their track should the itch need scratched. At least once a month I can run trains. So that is less of a concern for me; am I goofy in thinking this way (I realize I am goofy in other ways). My thinking know is to build the entire ladder system in the garage basically using my track plan and maybe some real world dry fitting but getting it all constructed and ready to be laid out. Chuck Inlow has a great system for this and would make it easy to do and I am sure I could borrow his jigs. Not to mention I could get a lot done for a relatively small outlay of the green stuff. Then once its done take the whole mess out to the yard and lay it out and see where stuff will actually go and where cross overs will be ect. and then start pounding posts. This would get the road bed in place all at once free from obstacles. Then I could landscape to the ladder making it fit to the track plan instead of the track plan to the landscaping. I have a flat level blank slate. The landscaping will also allow me to get a lot done with little outlay of the green stuff. All the while I can be gathering track.

Does this seem reasonable and correct or am I missing something obvious?

Battery or track power? If you build the components first, what will you do to all the pieces that don’t fit together, and or need tweaking, or you just change your mind on the layout plan (this will, repeat Will happen)? Drawings are good, but you will be amazed at how they just don’t align to the real world, around trees, bushes, curves, etc.

Just seems like it has a lot of areas for errors to come back and bite you. I would start on the ground with layout stakes, and then see how it looks, and fits, and then build up and out from there.

My $0.02.

Dave Taylor said:

Battery or track power? If you build the components first, what will you do to all the pieces that don’t fit together, and or need tweaking, or you just change your mind on the layout plan (this will, repeat Will happen)? Drawings are good, but you will be amazed at how they just don’t align to the real world, around trees, bushes, curves, etc.

Just seems like it has a lot of areas for errors to come back and bite you. I would start on the ground with layout stakes, and then see how it looks, and fits, and then build up and out from there.

My $0.02.

Well the first answer is battery power. I have no desire whatsoever to even consider anything else. I will be all battery and just about everyone in my club that might visit is too so no reason to any other direction.

Now maybe I should clarify. Track and what not would all be laid after the ladder is in place. When I said build it in the garage and then take it outdoors I was only referring to the ladder itself. And I definitely agree with doing some surveying out on the ground before anything else happens. I had planned to stake it out prior to any construction. There is only one obstacle that must be dealt with and that is the trains shed/ signal tower/ playhouse. other than that there is only the confines of the perimeter. But staking it out is a must.

Now you do bring up some other good thoughts. Mid stream changes of mind WILL happen, hadn’t thought about that, and I agree it WILL happen so good point. That right there might be enough to convince me to build it outdoors as I go at least for the ladder itself. What your suggesting doesn’t really alter the progression of work as far as ladder first, then landscaping and then track. So my basic thinking is still intact.

Thanks Dave.

Build the ladder as you go. That will allow for most changes of plan. If you do change your mind, what you rip out can be salvalged and used elsewhere, so its not lost.

Schedule a club meet. That will give you a goal to meet. Ask Joe M. how that works.

Steve Featherkile said:

Build the ladder as you go. That will allow for most changes of plan. If you do change your mind, what you rip out can be salvalged and used elsewhere, so its not lost.

Schedule a club meet. That will give you a goal to meet. Ask Joe M. how that works.

OK Steve I will take July 2018…

Yes I think that for the reason you and Dave both mention that building the ladder as I go is a better plan. Still can be done ahead of anything else and give me a chance to better visualize what it really will look like. I do totally get that the end product will likely not be anything more than a resemblance of what is drawn on paper.

Joe literally drew his plan on a napkin. Then transferred that to the ground. There are many ways to do that, using a stick to draw in the dirt is what I used. Some have laid a hose on the ground. Some have actually got out a surveyor’s transit. The idea is to think about it for a while, let it ferment a bit, then “git 'er done.”

I would build as you go, like Steve said. I had laid out a garden hose in my yard, and tweaked the plan for a whole summer. But as the track went down things did change. My straight run into Shannon became a meandering path, another curve got tweaked a bit. If I had prebuilt a ladder system, I would have had to redo it or replace it in those sections.

So, maybe, prebuild some parts of phase one of your track plan, like some curves and some straight sections, but fit them together and adjust them on site. But I would not build the whole thing, like the plan is set in stone.

I would build as you go, like Steve said. I had laid out a garden hose in my yard, and tweaked the plan for a whole summer. But as the track went down things did change. My straight run into Shannon became a meandering path, another curve got tweaked a bit. If I had prebuilt a ladder system, I would have had to redo it or replace it in those sections.

So, maybe, prebuild some parts of phase one of your track plan, like some curves and some straight sections, but fit them together and adjust them on site. But I would not build the whole thing, like the plan is set in stone.

I would build as you go, like Steve said. I had laid out a garden hose in my yard, and tweaked the plan for a whole summer. But as the track went down things did change. My straight run into Shannon became a meandering path, another curve got tweaked a bit. If I had prebuilt a ladder system, I would have had to redo it or replace it in those sections.

So, maybe, prebuild some parts of phase one of your track plan, like some curves and some straight sections, but fit them together and adjust them on site. But I would not build the whole thing, like the plan is set in stone.

A bigger question, I think you should ask yourself is how high do you want your layout? Ankle, knee, waist, chest, eye height? I think ladder roadbeds seem to work really well in the knee to ankle height, but any higher the more open benchwork style seems like a better plan. The first layout I built was at ankle height, and it got my “I need a railroad” bug out, but after not having a layout for 4 years I’m seriously thinking about building something at waist height. I’m one of the younger kids in the hobby at 30, but none of us are getting younger, and getting down isn’t always that fun.

One issue with building ladder in your garage and then bringing it to the layout. If you have curves on a grade, you’ll introduce side-to-side twist and tilt as the spline warps itself as it goes up and down the grade. If youre going to have grades on a curve, only do one side of the spline on your garage floor, and attach the other side level side to side after the one is in place.

David Maynard said:
I would build as you go, like Steve said. I had laid out a garden hose in my yard, and tweaked the plan for a whole summer. But as the track went down things did change. My straight run into Shannon became a meandering path, another curve got tweaked a bit. If I had prebuilt a ladder system, I would have had to redo it or replace it in those sections. So, maybe, prebuild some parts of phase one of your track plan, like some curves and some straight sections, but fit them together and adjust them on site. But I would not build the whole thing, like the plan is set in stone.

You feel so strongly about it you said it three times

Craig Townsend said:

A bigger question, I think you should ask yourself is how high do you want your layout? Ankle, knee, waist, chest, eye height? I think ladder roadbeds seem to work really well in the knee to ankle height, but any higher the more open benchwork style seems like a better plan. The first layout I built was at ankle height, and it got my “I need a railroad” bug out, but after not having a layout for 4 years I’m seriously thinking about building something at waist height. I’m one of the younger kids in the hobby at 30, but none of us are getting younger, and getting down isn’t always that fun.

I want the lowest portion to be 18 inches off the ground with max track height being at 30 inches. But I am considering dropping the whole thing to a minimum at zero and working up from there. This is more out of necessity than anything. Because of my limited space my layout will require you to operate it from the inside as opposed to walking around the outside. This will require walking paths that cross the track in several places. While I have ideas about how to accomplish this the reality is it would be easier just to drop it down. I have actually spent a fair amount of time watching the old gummers at club meetings and they seem able enough to deal with ground level.

Bob McCown said:

One issue with building ladder in your garage and then bringing it to the layout. If you have curves on a grade, you’ll introduce side-to-side twist and tilt as the spline warps itself as it goes up and down the grade. If youre going to have grades on a curve, only do one side of the spline on your garage floor, and attach the other side level side to side after the one is in place.

Bob,

That’s probably the strongest reason for build as you go. My layout will be almost entirely curved and everything will be on a grade. I don’t think in the plan there is one single piece of truly flat track. In order to get done what I want to get done in the relatively small space I have to climb all the time. Never more than 2.5 % but a grade none the less. I understand exactly what you mean by building it flat on a garage floor and then trying to translate that an elevation outside. So great point. The only way (and i am not sure why you would do it) is to build it to elevation in the garage.

What about super elevation? We are talking about keeping things level side to side on elevated curves but what about super elevating the curves. Any reason or am I better to keep it level?

I think this week I might be getting some stakes and string.

You are better off keeping it level. We don’t build up the forces that necessitate super elevation. In fact, when you super elevate our stuff, you build in the forces that create “stringlining,” or derailing a string of cars to the inside of a curve. I know that you know what stringlining means, but someone who will read this won’t, so hence the definition. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

Devon; never once have you mentioned Ken Brunt’s building project. He seems to be building his railroad just as you have suggested that you want to build yours. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel…look at what he has been doing, after years of trial and error. He may have the answers you are looking for.

Steve I get what you mean. But actually this might be a good time to do some education. I know that often times people start throwing stuff about that is good information but make it seem as if people should know what your talking about and are not usually willing to say “what are you talking about and how does it apply to me.” So forgive me if this is not necessary but I don’t want this useful bit of information to escape someone who might need it or want it.

Super elevation is a real fancy term for banking a corner. NASCAR does it, roller coasters do it, the highway department does it and trains do it. Why do they do it? The main reason is Newtons 1st law of Physics; it is most noted by the statement that an object in motion tends to stay in motion and an object at rest tends to stay at rest until acted upon by an outside force. so something stopped needs an outside force to get it moving and an object moving needs an outside force to get it to stop. Well another aspect of that first law is that an object in motion wants to travel linearly or in a straight line unless acted upon by an outside force. Whew science class paid off. So as something that is traveling on a straight path suddenly reaches a corner in the path its tendency is to fly off the corner. A car going 200 mph in a NASCAR race will need to slow significantly to keep from sliding off a flat level corner; gravity is the only thing holding it to the road and the speed and weight of the car quickly create a force greater than gravity and it flies off. Bank that corner, and now that lateral force becomes a downward force relative to the car and it actually begins to aid gravity pushing the car on the track. Now the car can go faster around the corner. Now here is the trade off, and there always is one. Bank it to much and the car falls over if the the force of gravity overcomes the inertial force. There is a balance between the two. So we bank the track so we can ease lateral force by turning it at least somewhat into a downward force. A note on “pulling G’s” The human body is designed to be upright with gravity pulling us straight down. We prefer to be pulled down more than sideways. So it is a much more comfortable ride to go around a super elevated turn as well.

Now for trains the same rules above apply but another aspect comes into play; “stringlining” as Steve called it. If you lay a string on a curve and pull it the string doesn’t follow the curve it pulls to the center wanting to straighten itself out. A train really is nothing more than a string. As the loco pulls on the string and it wants to pull it to the center and yank itself off the track. The weight of the car coupled with the flanges on the wheels keep this from happening and make the train go around the corner. A flat level corner will maximize the effect of both gravity and the flanges ability to keep it on the track. As you bank the track both forces (gravity and flange) are changed in direction relative to the car. Gravity is now wanting to tip the car over instead of holding it on the track and the flange is now being pulled to the top of the rail instead of directly into its side. Bank to much and either the car tips over or it stringlines and is pulled off the rail inward as it tries to straighten. So stringlining works opposite of banking and they work against each other. I will throw in that as a train is pulled inward on a flat level corner it will want to bind as that force is driving the flanges into the side of the rail. There are other reasons that govern a sharp corner but this is one of them. By super elevating a corner you reduce those forces driving the flange into the rail and reduce binding and at least somewhat allows for a tighter turn. This makes that balance even more important.

So what to do? In the 1:1 world trains are heavy so these forces are all multiplied by weight. A train really wants to go straight even at slower than NASCAR speeds. Speed it up and it gets worse. So we can deal with it by super elevating a curve. The flanges preventing stringlining will help fight inertia also. We can super elevate to a fair degree since the weight (gravity) and inerta is going to force it onto the rail and keep the flange in contact with the rail so to avoid stringlining. We reduce the the binding force as well. Weight is our friend once we super elevate.

Now to Steve’s point. Our trains are light weight. Therefore inertial forces (the ones pushing them off the track in a corner) are relatively low. Super elevation doesn’t gain us a whole lot. But stringlining is still a big worry ( a much stronger force relative to inertia and gravity) and actually is a worse of a concern because we don’t have gravity and inertia helping as much. What Steve is saying is that as soon as you begin to super elevate you rapidly increase the stringline force and exceed the gravitational and inertial force preventing it; the train derails to the inside. There is the trade off and the balance. His opinion is that the inertial forces are not an issue that warrants super elevation nor are we going to significantly tighten our radius before we run into problems. So keep it level and avoid the greater evil of stringlining.

A great real world model railroad experience is building a helix coil to gain elevation. Super elevation allows a tighter corner which is good but stringlining prevents it which is bad. To build a model railroad helix is a lesson in balancing these two aspects. And Steve is right stringlining wins before much significance in radius reduction is achieved. I was planning one in N scale and played with it and while some super elevation can be achieved one has to wonder if it is worth it.

Sorry for the long explanation but its a good topic that I fear many wont understand and might not want to look stupid and ask. I know from experience.

Fred Mills, BSc, BS, SD (Hons) said:

Devon; never once have you mentioned Ken Brunt’s building project. He seems to be building his railroad just as you have suggested that you want to build yours. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel…look at what he has been doing, after years of trial and error. He may have the answers you are looking for.

Fred thanks for the redirection. I certainly do not want to reinvent the wheel. That’s why I brought my idea here. I have before and will again check out Ken’s for inspiration. The biggest question has been answered in that I am better to build the ladder as I go as opposed to trying to build it a modular affair in my shop.

Just as a point, and to muddy the waters a bit, I do super elevate my curves. No more then 1/2 a bubble, and that is the max. I usually end up with a bit less. It’s not that I need it on my narrow gauge short line, the trains are short and run slow. I do it so I don’t end up with underelevation, the track leaning the other way. With underelevation I get regular derailments, so I super elevate to protect against that as the track moves and settles during the season