Large Scale Central

Ladder Roadbed Height's?

Track and Trestles
#1

I’ve been lurking about the archives reading up on the Ladder Roadbed, I’m considering using this approach for a stretch of my layout that goes through the garden (well a proper veggie garden). I would like to stay away from the post and stringer through this section since I want to try out this ladder roadbed and keep a vey low profile through the gardern. The roadbed will be about 18 to 26 or so inches above the final grade, but I’m struggling on just how to elevate the ladder roadbed… And this quandry is holding up construction!

The info I’ve read suggest’s not going over 24" using the TREX post’s. So I’ve looked into using galvanized chain link fencing “top rail”, but that’s just about a 1/4" to narrow for using the 2x2 spacers. I liked the ease of what HJ was doing with the 1.5" Sch. 40 PVC, but I fear that to will be too wobbly. Although my likely inaccurate measurments at the local HD found that perhaps a short ring of 1.5" PVC could be slid over the galvanized pipe to make it the proper width for the roadbed.

Basically, what I’m looking for some input on what everyone else has used and their thoughts? Mainly some thoughts on the maximum height the various methods can safely achive.

Thanks a million!

#2

You’re on the right track, Chris. Use galv steel pipe in pvc pipe, fill pvc with gravel or concrete or use PT wood 4x4 fence posts with notched rabbits in the top. All approaches would likely work well.

-Brian

#3

I used treated wooden 2x2…they make them for in 3’ lengths for porch railing. This was the same material I used for my spacers, so it was easy to work with.

#4

Wow! A light bulb just went off!

I use a ladder roadbed with various methods of supporting the ladder.

http://www.triplecrails.com/2003/2003Exp1.htm

I have a couple of problem areas where I can’t drive PVC or 2X2’s because of the tree roots. I have been using 1 X 3/4" treated stakes on each side of the ladder without much success. The stakes can be driven through the roots but they really are not meaty enough to stay in place. Every Spring the frost heave has moved them every-which-way and the small stakes like to split in the weather.

I used short (36") metal fence stakes that get driven 12" into the ground for a rabbit fence around my garden patch. The post has wings on the buried end that make it very sturdy. And you really can really wack that metal post to drive it through the roots. I was going to replace the wood stakes with them this year but had not come up with a good way to attach them to the ladder or to make small leveling adjustments once it was attached.

Quote “perhaps a short ring of 1.5” PVC could be slid over the galvanized pipe to make it the proper width for the roadbed" Lit the light bulb.

Slip the PVC over and mount to the fence post. Leave extra height above the post (drive it further into the ground if required). Level and true the ladder, screw it into the PVC, cut off any extra. If the frost heave gets to it over the winter, the worst thing that could happen would require a new PVC piece. No weather problems.

Now… if only Spring would get here.

Craig

#5

Every time I see a ladder roadbed post I light up as there are so many options available. Chris, thinking about how to do it can drive ya’ crazy sometimes. There are some good suggestions here but what I like to do when I get my panties in a jamb is vacate lumber yards and ask questions about new PVC building products. I recently found something I like and working on for my layout. My biggest issue is like yours “through the veggie garden” it kills me to see that open space 1/2 of the year thinking boy I could use that. However ya’ can’t beat walking out back and plucking fresh stuff to go with what your grilling!

#6

I dunno if this might help a little.
http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/roadbed/ladder1.htm

#7

I would not go over 24 inches in height. I am six feet tall and 24 inches is relatively easy to step over if single mainline, but I find that as I grow older it may well be six feet high as it seems harder each time I cross it. double mainline would be a major problem at any elevated height. The elevated road did give me the incentive to power every switch, to avoid as much as possible, having to step over the rail.

#8

I probably should have mentioned I’m not actually using TREX in the first post. I’m using the 1x2 Trim Plank stuff I found the the local HD. Reading what has been said about cutting TREX, and the fact that I can’t find the required TREX at the local hardware stores really settled me onto the Trim Plank.

My layout is also going to climb higher, well sort of. The yard slopes away from the house, so as it get’s farther from the house, the railroad will be higher off the ground. Sure it’s going to require a few liftout’s, I don’t have a problem with that since for operation’s they won’t be used, and I love welding up bridges. I also want the railroad up off the ground for operation’s/switching.

 Thanks for the ideas though, the gears are really turning again.  Now if I could kick this cold and the snow would quit, I could go start playing with some of these new ideas.   Oh, spring can't get here quick enough....
#9

I used tuf board and trim plank both. I actually perferred the trim plank. It’s 5/8" thick and easier to bend or work with than the tuf board. My supports are choice deck balustrade (weyerhauser product) they come in 32" lengths so that won’t work for your height. However as stated you can get this in 36" lengths. My yard has a natural slope as well and considering what I like to run(long trains) and sometimes a 8yr old at the throttle I tried to keep my grades at 1% max. I tried FR Freds system for the front of my garden but not so sure I like it yet as the 2x material will be burried in dirt. Although the wood decking underneath has a very noticable sound on the soldered rail joints where the PVC asorbs the sound. I do like the wheel click on the joints. I want to get the roadbed nailed before back filling. so I’m playing with options. perhaps pictures may or may not help but I put them up anyway.

(http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/The%20Railroad/?action=view&current=Sept08005.jpg)

(http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/The%20Railroad/?action=view&current=Sept08002.jpg)

These pictures were taken before any bridges were installed. For my double track main I made a grid with tufboard with cross pieces spaced 12" and supported about every 2’ or so. My supports are sunk only about 12" or less in the ground and have survived/floated with PA climate>

#10

David,

Through your link, I got to your slideshow. I hope you didn’t mind? Very nice!!

#11
Ric Golding said:
David,

Through your link, I got to your slideshow. I hope you didn’t mind? Very nice!!


Actually Ric…I never did the slide show before…thats really cool. I’m a freakin’ mad man…I got a lot done in the past few years not only with the railroad but my home as well. It was neat seeing how the RR and yard transformed. Thanks for viewing it and bringing it to my attention.
:wink:

#12

I used the 1x2 trim plank. It will expand and contract. This it the first year mine has been outside I see I’m going to have to put in rail expansion joints.

(http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/507/RioG-PFE-R1_Medium_Web_view.jpg)

[img/]

#13
Don & Craig Hofsheier said:
I used the 1x2 trim plank. It will expand and contract. This it the first year mine has been outside I see I'm going to have to put in rail expansion joints.
Your curves should take the expansion/contraction and should not be secured to the roadbed.
#14

I had gaps in the rails all over, but the trim plank contracted so much the rail was hanging off the road bed
about a inch and one half. I think if I put in a couple of rail ex panders that should work.

#15
Don & Craig Hofsheier said:
I had gaps in the rails all over, but the trim plank contracted so much the rail was hanging off the road bed about a inch and one half. I think if I put in a couple of rail ex panders that should work.
That's odd...I have had my ladder down for several years and have not had those issues. I used flex track and soldered all my joints. I have straight runs at approx 60' and it floats out or in on the turns. I did put in expansion joints on the long runs but they don't seem to do much. My straights are screwed down to the ladder every 2' or so and the rail floats in the ties.
#16

My problem might be I didn’t unscrew all the ties from the rails. I left the screws in on the straight sections.
I only have one place where it is bad. I’ll have to take the screws out in the spring.

#17
Don & Craig Hofsheier said:
My problem might be I didn't unscrew all the ties from the rails. I left the screws in on the straight sections. I only have one place where it is bad. I'll have to take the screws out in the spring.
Aaaaw yes that is a problem,!!!! I did that myself on a 15' section(3- 5' soldered together) it got all twisted up in the sun.