Large Scale Central

Ladder Roadbed a Success!

Track and Trestles
#1

I apologize for this being late. I didn’t have much time to play with photos and stuff this summer. Finally got off my duff, updated my website and remembered I owed the members here a Big Thank You for the help you gave me in the spring. After asking you all a lot of questions on how to do ladder roadbed, I added 4ft to the length of my main loop and installed ladder type roadbed. I had previously floated my roadbed in ballast. That didn’t work to well due to twist and dips in the track. The ladder roadbed was well worth the work. I ran my Pacific and heavyweight cars all summer without one derailment. (Well, once the Pacific did hit the dog and flip over) Here are some pics. I used plastic 1X2 plastic trim board, 2x2 PT post for the seperation blocks and support posts.

I laid out the track and used flour to mark where I put it.

I bent the ladder around the posts and used clamps to hold it in place

I screwed in the other side but did not screw it to the posts until after I was all done and had it level

A wiggle in the straight would not be seen after the track was laid and ballasted

I staggered the joints of the side rails. Where they met on inside curves they kinked. I solved this by adding another piece to the inside of the curve

I painted the top of the ladder gray and put down ballast. Should have also painted the sides

Laid the track and bent to shape using a Train Li Bender. Worked great!

The Blue Comet train likes the level track

The long heavyweight cars had no problem with this S curve.

More pictures and details can be found at www.golddawg.com Thanks guys for all the help!

#2

That looks good. Thanx for the update.

#3

Nice work. I bet it feels great to have the trains out and running.

#4

Looking good. I really like the ladder roadbed, though I think it would be tough to do it with sectional track.

It looks like you’ve mastered it. There’s no going back now. :wink:

#5

Nice job Ward. You’ve proven that it is possible to get nice flowing curves even in a fairly tight radius with this material. Your joint-splice idea works perfect. It could probably be done inside the ladder if the roadbed was going to be exposed.

Must be nice to have a Train-Li :smiley:

#6

Well done, Ward. You have enough elevation that the water should drain away nicely, through the ballast.

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_08/IMG_0752.jpg)

It looks as if you have used a weed cloth as a barrier beneath the ballast to keep those pesky weeds at a minimum. I’ve found it really helps, but some seeds still find their way into the ballast, most likely from bird droppings. Can’t be helped. And using the big rocks (fieldstones) to keep the ballast from spreading is a great idea, too!

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_08/IMG_0791.jpg)

Where does that tunnel go? I like the idea of using those buckets to simulate various industries. Shows imagination. :lol:

#7

Who manufactured your trim board? I was looking at some 1x2 material today and even on edge it seemed to have a lot of flex to it.

#8

Ward,

Nice job! I did my whole railroad in ladder and been very happy with it.

Terry,

I used 1x2 plastic from Home Depot, Menard’s, or Lowe’s. I put in a support every 2 feet and that seem to be enough.

#9

Terry, The name brand is Tuf Board. I found it at Home Depot. I don’t remember the price exactly but I think it was just under $5 for a 8’ length. Yes, it is flexible, which allowed me to get the tighter curves. I supported it with posts every 18" to 24". On the curves I frequently went back and added posts to help hold the curve. The ballast will support it between the posts. I would support it no less than 18" if it was free standing. There was another brand at Lowes but it was much more money. Steve, Yep, the weed cloth does not stop weeds that sprout from seeds that settle into the ballast. I mainly use it to keep the ballast from migrating into the dirt. I like more natural borders which is why I use the large stones for edging and rough flat stone for the 18" high dry stacked wall. The tunnel is 6’ long, made from terra cota chimney flue tiles. It goes under a raised area about 6’ in dia which is one end of a point to point. Here are some more pics. Here is a pic of the same end before I added the 4’. You can see the raised area over the tunnel

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_07/Memorial_Day_075.jpg)

Here is the other end of the tunnel. The point to point runs across the narrow raised area.

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_08/IMG_0881.jpg)

This shot is taken a little more to the left, showing the rocky slope going up to the raised area

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_08/IMG_0877.jpg)

And this shot shows the left end of the layout. The RDC car is at the other end of the point to point

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_07/Memorial_Day_083.jpg)

And here is the other end of the layout.

(http://www.golddawg.com/GDRR_07/Memorial_Day_084.jpg)

There is a total of 7.5 tons of flat stone. I have picked up fieldstone from West Virginia , Pensylvania up to Coonecticut. Next year I am going to put the ladder roadbed under the point to point and do some sidings on the lower loop. One of these days I will do the same with the upper loop. Thanks for the kind words guys.

#10

Don,
Your thread on doing you ladder roadbed was one that I followed very closely. Once in while I get to come out to Syracuse. I hope to be able to visit your layout when I come out again.

Ward